On Sat, 27 May 2006 11:16:09 -0500, "Robert Swinney"
wrote:

Thanx to all respondents. Perhaps, I didn't make it clear - this is a
freeze-proof faucet. Thus the seat is 14" deep and very hard to see with a
flashlight in the long hole. The recommendation of leaving the old seat
open and fitting a new faucet on the outside is a good one. It provides an
easy solution without the onerous task of tearing into the wall. Thanks
guys!

Which will work fine, right up until the next hard freeze. After
which you are quite likely to have problems, the only question being
their severity.

Worst case, do you want to start tearing out floors and walls
chasing down the mother of all mold growths? Funny thing about that,
if the outlet pipe on the sillcock freezes and splits, you get a
hidden slow water leak inside the wall, and mold can grow and fester
in there for months before emerging with a vengeance.

They didn't spend all the extra money and effort installing a
freeze-proof sillcock on your house just for ****s and grins, they did
it because you live where that hard freezes are a normal occurrence.

Bob (what a plumber needs to know is **** won't flow uphill and Friday is
payday) Swinney

And you also have to know what you Don't Know. Fix it right.

If you want to put a secondary shutoff someplace easy to get to just
to stop the leak, put a shutoff valve and a drain valve down in the
nice warm basement, and manually drain the pipe to the sillcock in the
winter.

-- Bruce --
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
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