Doug and Greg,
You do not need to be on both sides of the panel actually That is illegal,
You should have a breaker that is for 220 only
You can use two 110 breakers next to each other with a clip that unites
them, some inspecters do not like the clip setup because when one leg pops
it may not shut the other breaker.
If you are on both sides of the panel and one side shorts out you still have
power flowing through the other side.
The breaker box is designed so that every other breaker is connected to a
differant leg of the main bars that the power goes through the panel
Still the best bet is to get a 220 breaker to run a 220 line

Good Luck
George


"Greg D." wrote in message
...
Hi Doug,

Thank you very much for your help. The table saw is now working fine.

It's true, I had my 2 breakers on the same leg. I moved one over on
the other leg and got my 220V just right. I've done a lot of
electrical work but it was mostly on the plain 110V. I also know very
well the Amp vs. wire gauge so there was no fire hazard... in my
case.

I just didn't know 220V had to be taken from the 2 legs... I guess we
learn something new everyday...

Again, thank you very much for your help, it's appreciated.


Greg D.



On Sun, 14 May 2006 22:01:49 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , Greg D.
wrote:
Hi Doug,

Maybe you've spot the problem...

I get a reading of 0V between the 2 hots.

Here's my setup. I have a subpanel of 60Amps (4 x 15AMps breakers) in
my workshop. This subpanel get its current from the main panel via a
30Amps / 10-3 wire. The red and the black wires are on 2 different
15Amps breaker (in the main panel) and they feed 2 x 15Amps breakers
on each side.

It's time to stop what you're doing, and get a book on residential
electrical
wiring -- or call a pro, or at least a buddy who understands this stuff.
You
don't. No offense intended, but you don't. And messing around with
electricity
when you don't understand it can get you KILLED.

In order to have a 220V circuit, you must have the two hot conductors
coming
off of opposite legs of your service. It appears that your two 15A
breakers
feeding the subpanel are on the *same* leg of the service. The only thing
that
keeps this from being a *serious* fire hazard is the 10-3 wi you could
be
putting as much as 30A of current on the neutral conductor in that 10-3
cable;
fortunately, that's OK -- but if you should ever swap those 15A breakers
for
30s, you've got major trouble.

I combined 2 15Amps breakers (the two in the middle) so each of them
are on one 15 Amps breaker in the main panel.

It's not at all clear to me what you mean by this.

I then fed my 220V
outlet (for the tablesaw) with those 2 hot wires (110V each).

Should I leave the voltmeter in the same settings to read the voltage
between two hot wires?

Probably, but that depends on your voltmeter. Make sure that it's capable
of
measuring 250V.

Thanks for helping me through this...

Again, no offense intended, but IMO you should stop what you're doing, and
bring in someone who understands it. If you happen to be in the
Indianapolis
area, I can drop by...


Benoit


On Sun, 14 May 2006 19:56:15 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , Greg D.
wrote:
Hi Doug,

Yes, I do have 110V on each of them.

That's not the point -- what is the voltage *between* the two hot wires?
Not
the voltage from each one to ground. The voltage from hot to hot. If
they are
both on the same leg of your service, they'll each measure 110V to
ground or
neutral, but *zero* between them.

I even looked at the switch and
on both ends I have 110V. Looks like the current doesn't go through
from the switch. That's why I'm wondering if there's something that
prevents the switch from closing the circuit.

Well, my first guess is that there is indeed something preventing the
switch
from closing the circuit, and that "something" is that there isn't 220V
present between the two hot conductors.

Since it's a magnetic switch, maybe there's a reset button inside I
can trigger and make it work.

Check the voltage between the two hot conductors: is it 220V, or zero?

Thanks for helping!


Benoit


On Sun, 14 May 2006 17:30:09 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , Greg D.
wrote:
I'm trying to wire my new cabinet saw for 220V. Got the 220V outlet,
installed the power cord onto the magnetic switch on the table saw
exactly as shown in the diagram.

For those interested in the details, I've got a General cabinet saw
(the Canada made one) and connected my power cord to the L1 and L3
screws. Each one gets its 110V of power. The meter reads properly but
it doesn't seem that the power reaches the other side to make the
motor run. I released the stop button and push the green one just to
see nothing. I even pushed the thermal reset button on the motor just
in case and still nothing.

Does anyone here have an idea what to do? Is there any special thing
to do the first time you start it?

Is your 220V circuit wired correctly? That is, do you really have
220V?
Check
the voltage between L1 and L3. Do you see 220, or zero?