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Default 220V Magnetic switch problem

Assuming you're in North America, which it sounds like:

It further sounds like your sub panel is miswired. Does ANY
other 220 outlet it feeds perform correctly? Is so, the sub
panel is botched. If not, the it's probably miswired inside the
panel.
Also, you seem to be talking about a "pair" of non-ganged ckt
breakers for the 220V: A definite NO-NO! You have to use
ganged ckt brkrs with 220 derived in that fashion.
There are two wires coming into your house, each with 110V on
them, but they are "out of phase" with each other, by 180
degrees. So, to get 220 you need a wire from each of those two.
What you have now is the SAME phase on each one, so that there is
0V difference, not 220V, between them.
It's simple, but not simple to explain on a ng.

Either DISCONNECT and quit until you get up to speed on what you
have to do, or get someone in who knows, not just thinks he
knows, the mistake you apparently made, what's up.
There's no shame in this; you've just missed a very important
part of the picture, and that spells out danger - a possibly
serious danger, in fact.

Please stop until you either fully understand what's happened, or
better yet, get someone in there who understands the situation.

Some people don't like to hear this, but if a non-code (which you
have) miswiring causes a fire, and your insurance company gets
wind of it, you will have NO insurance! Codes exist for very
real reasons, too.

If you absolutely insist on forging ahead with this, and you
haven't used Google, here are a couple of off the cuff links that
will get you started thinking in the right direction at least:
http://lists.contesting.com/_amps/2005-02/msg00255.html
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...220outlet.html
http://lists.contesting.com/_amps/2002-12/msg00169.html
http://experts.about.com/q/Electrica...utlet-near.htm

If nothing else, those will give you a hint as to what you're
missing in your knowledge base.

HTH,

Pop


"Greg D." wrote in message
...
Hi Doug,

Maybe you've spot the problem...

I get a reading of 0V between the 2 hots.

Here's my setup. I have a subpanel of 60Amps (4 x 15AMps
breakers) in
my workshop. This subpanel get its current from the main panel
via a
30Amps / 10-3 wire. The red and the black wires are on 2
different
15Amps breaker (in the main panel) and they feed 2 x 15Amps
breakers
on each side.

I combined 2 15Amps breakers (the two in the middle) so each of
them
are on one 15 Amps breaker in the main panel. I then fed my
220V
outlet (for the tablesaw) with those 2 hot wires (110V each).

Should I leave the voltmeter in the same settings to read the
voltage
between two hot wires?

Thanks for helping me through this...


Benoit


On Sun, 14 May 2006 19:56:15 GMT, (Doug
Miller)
wrote:

In article , Greg
D. wrote:
Hi Doug,

Yes, I do have 110V on each of them.


That's not the point -- what is the voltage *between* the two
hot wires? Not
the voltage from each one to ground. The voltage from hot to
hot. If they are
both on the same leg of your service, they'll each measure 110V
to ground or
neutral, but *zero* between them.

I even looked at the switch and
on both ends I have 110V. Looks like the current doesn't go
through
from the switch. That's why I'm wondering if there's something
that
prevents the switch from closing the circuit.


Well, my first guess is that there is indeed something
preventing the switch
from closing the circuit, and that "something" is that there
isn't 220V
present between the two hot conductors.

Since it's a magnetic switch, maybe there's a reset button
inside I
can trigger and make it work.


Check the voltage between the two hot conductors: is it 220V,
or zero?

Thanks for helping!


Benoit


On Sun, 14 May 2006 17:30:09 GMT,
(Doug
Miller)
wrote:

In article , Greg
D.
wrote:
I'm trying to wire my new cabinet saw for 220V. Got the 220V
outlet,
installed the power cord onto the magnetic switch on the
table saw
exactly as shown in the diagram.

For those interested in the details, I've got a General
cabinet saw
(the Canada made one) and connected my power cord to the L1
and L3
screws. Each one gets its 110V of power. The meter reads
properly but
it doesn't seem that the power reaches the other side to
make the
motor run. I released the stop button and push the green one
just to
see nothing. I even pushed the thermal reset button on the
motor just
in case and still nothing.

Does anyone here have an idea what to do? Is there any
special thing
to do the first time you start it?

Is your 220V circuit wired correctly? That is, do you really
have 220V? Check
the voltage between L1 and L3. Do you see 220, or zero?