In article , Greg D. wrote:
Hi Doug,
Maybe you've spot the problem...
I get a reading of 0V between the 2 hots.
Here's my setup. I have a subpanel of 60Amps (4 x 15AMps breakers) in
my workshop. This subpanel get its current from the main panel via a
30Amps / 10-3 wire. The red and the black wires are on 2 different
15Amps breaker (in the main panel) and they feed 2 x 15Amps breakers
on each side.
It's time to stop what you're doing, and get a book on residential electrical
wiring -- or call a pro, or at least a buddy who understands this stuff. You
don't. No offense intended, but you don't. And messing around with electricity
when you don't understand it can get you KILLED.
In order to have a 220V circuit, you must have the two hot conductors coming
off of opposite legs of your service. It appears that your two 15A breakers
feeding the subpanel are on the *same* leg of the service. The only thing that
keeps this from being a *serious* fire hazard is the 10-3 wi you could be
putting as much as 30A of current on the neutral conductor in that 10-3 cable;
fortunately, that's OK -- but if you should ever swap those 15A breakers for
30s, you've got major trouble.
I combined 2 15Amps breakers (the two in the middle) so each of them
are on one 15 Amps breaker in the main panel.
It's not at all clear to me what you mean by this.
I then fed my 220V
outlet (for the tablesaw) with those 2 hot wires (110V each).
Should I leave the voltmeter in the same settings to read the voltage
between two hot wires?
Probably, but that depends on your voltmeter. Make sure that it's capable of
measuring 250V.
Thanks for helping me through this...
Again, no offense intended, but IMO you should stop what you're doing, and
bring in someone who understands it. If you happen to be in the Indianapolis
area, I can drop by...
Benoit
On Sun, 14 May 2006 19:56:15 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:
In article , Greg D.
wrote:
Hi Doug,
Yes, I do have 110V on each of them.
That's not the point -- what is the voltage *between* the two hot wires? Not
the voltage from each one to ground. The voltage from hot to hot. If they are
both on the same leg of your service, they'll each measure 110V to ground or
neutral, but *zero* between them.
I even looked at the switch and
on both ends I have 110V. Looks like the current doesn't go through
from the switch. That's why I'm wondering if there's something that
prevents the switch from closing the circuit.
Well, my first guess is that there is indeed something preventing the switch
from closing the circuit, and that "something" is that there isn't 220V
present between the two hot conductors.
Since it's a magnetic switch, maybe there's a reset button inside I
can trigger and make it work.
Check the voltage between the two hot conductors: is it 220V, or zero?
Thanks for helping!
Benoit
On Sun, 14 May 2006 17:30:09 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:
In article , Greg D.
wrote:
I'm trying to wire my new cabinet saw for 220V. Got the 220V outlet,
installed the power cord onto the magnetic switch on the table saw
exactly as shown in the diagram.
For those interested in the details, I've got a General cabinet saw
(the Canada made one) and connected my power cord to the L1 and L3
screws. Each one gets its 110V of power. The meter reads properly but
it doesn't seem that the power reaches the other side to make the
motor run. I released the stop button and push the green one just to
see nothing. I even pushed the thermal reset button on the motor just
in case and still nothing.
Does anyone here have an idea what to do? Is there any special thing
to do the first time you start it?
Is your 220V circuit wired correctly? That is, do you really have 220V?
Check
the voltage between L1 and L3. Do you see 220, or zero?
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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