I would try the Gorilla glue but IMO what you are trying to do is the
Achilles heel of glue blocks. Great things if the wood is reasonably dry but
if it's wet then I don't trust them.
Some people dry the bottom of the bowl blank with a hair dryer first and
then get the roughing done quickly. CA glue is also water tolerant in the
short term but you might be better with medium CA than the real thin stuff.

Be careful, a flying blank can be very dangerous!!! Make sure you have a
faceshield as a minimum and stay out of the line-of-fire until you get a
better understanding of what works for you.

billh

"Walt Cheever" wrote in message
news:8848g.722614$084.285368@attbi_s22...
I've been turning some large bowls from green wood. The wood was cut late
last year.

So far 3 out of three have jumped off the lathe shortly after I pulled the
tailstock away so that I could start hollowing.

I'm using glued on waste blocks screwed to the faceplate, and the cause is
obvious--the glue ain't dry.

The wood feels dry to the touch, the waste block is dry oak, and I'm using
Tite-Bond II for glue. After the first AWOL bowl, I started waiting 2
days after gluing before I put them on the lathe, but have the same
problem. I use glue generously, but there is not much squeeze out when I
put the clamps on it, so I don't think that's the problem. When the joint
comes apart, the glue is still damp to the touch, but not liquid. Of
course the poor paper separator is mush. I'm surprised that the joint
stayed tight as long as it did.

My first solution is to go to Polyethylene (Gorilla) glue. Since it likes
water to cure, should do the trick. Has anyone done this who can give me
the benefit of their experience?

Are there other ideas that could help?

The good part is that I've learned how bowls blow off the lathe, and where
to stand to avoid them.

Thanks.

Walt C