Walt Cheever wrote:
I'm using glued on waste blocks screwed to the faceplate, and the cause is
obvious--the glue ain't dry.

The wood feels dry to the touch, the waste block is dry oak, and I'm using
Tite-Bond II for glue. After the first AWOL bowl, I started waiting 2 days
after gluing before I put them on the lathe, but have the same problem. I
use glue generously, but there is not much squeeze out when I put the clamps
on it, so I don't think that's the problem. When the joint comes apart, the
glue is still damp to the touch, but not liquid. Of course the poor paper
separator is mush. I'm surprised that the joint stayed tight as long as it
did.

Wood that feels dry to the touch may still have considerable moisture
content. I think most wood glues are designed to work on dry wood. Some
people use hot melt glue, but again I don't know if this works on green
wood. Take a look on Darrell Feltmate's website, I think he uses this
technique.

It also sounds to me like the surfaces are not flat, though that depends
on just how generous you are with the glue.

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com - a blog for my customers
http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com/TheToolrest/ - a blog for woodturners