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Default Coldsaw vs. Metal-cutting saw?

Kickback, by definition, can only occur with an unclamped workpiece,
like on a tablesaw.
If the work piece is securely clamped down, kickback is impossible,
like on a chop saw with a vise, or a cold saw, or a milling machine.
Higher end tablesaws have sliding tables, with clamps to hold the
workpiece down- so they eliminate the possibility of kickback. No
reason you couldnt put a vise on your radial arm saw, but it would slow
you down.

But if the workpiece somehow gets loose accidentally, it stands to
reason that the slower the saw blade, the less dangerous it would be.

The blade on a real cold saw is just under an 1/8" thick, on most of
the smaller ones. It is High Speed Steel, no carbide teeth. It will
take a fair amount of force in pulling it thru the work, without
bending, but you can break em by dropping em while they are running
down on the workpiece.

As far as big bandsaws- they make huge bandsaws- they just cost a lot.
I have a buddy who bought a 30,000$ Amada (made in Japan, one of the
best bandsaws in the world)
It was full auto, it would feed the material, cut it, and feed in the
next piece until it was out of steel.
The big ones will cut 20" square solid, with a 2" wide blade, dead
straight.

Saws are just like hot rods- how fast you want to go depends on how
much money you have to spend.