What are "support blocks?"
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http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/d...s/stringer.htm
If the above is a "stringer" (2by PT), the steps or tread lay upon (and are
fastened to) the horizontal face of the parallel stringers.
For this, Exterior grade decking screws would seem best (well, stainless
would be nicer).
For an "open" stairway out of doors, this should suffice.
http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projec...ks/deck_11.htm
Pg 11 Decks Building Stairs To frame a deck stairway, you need to figure
out the number of treads (steps) required and the rise and run (length) of
each tread. First, measure the height of the deck. Then divide the height by
7 (a typical stairway rise). If the answer's a whole number, then that's the
number of treads you'll need. If the answer ends in a fraction, then round
it off to the nearest whole number which'll be the number of treads and
divide that into the height. That gives you the rise you'll need for that
number of treads. To determine the most comfortable run of your treads (the
length), divide the rise into 75. So with a typical rise of 7 inches, a
typical run might be 10-1/2 inches. A rise of 7-1/2 inches would work best
with a run of 10 inches. But this so-called "comfort formula" does allow
some leeway, so layouts of 6-12 (72) and 7-11 (77) work out fine. TIP: On
deck stairs, a run of 10 inches always works great because you can use 3
2x4's (for a total width of 10-1/2 inches wide) or 2 2x6's (11 inches wide)
for the treads, leaving a nice 1/2-inch or 1-inch overhang at the front of
the tread. Laying out Stringers You can lay out a stair stringer very
quickly with a framing square by finding the rise on one leg and the run on
the other leg and then lining those up with the edge of the board. Mark
along the edges of the square to create the first step. Then move down the
board, line up the square and draw the next step. Continue that until you've
drawn all the treads. Cutting Stringers Use a circular saw to start all the
cuts. But use a handsaw to finish them, since the circular saw blade leaves
a little bit uncut at each corner. Tracing Stringers TIP: All stairways
require at least 2 stringers, and taller ones require 3. But rather than lay
each one out individually with the framing square, cut the first stringer
out and use that one as a pattern for the others. Bracing Stringers You can
install each stringer separately, but it's usually quicker to connect them
together with braces before setting them in place. Notch out each stringer
for 2x4 braces at the top, middle and bottom. Screw the braces in to each
stringer. Attaching Stringers Set the stringers in place against the rim
joist and nail through the top brace into the rim to hold it. Lag screw
through the brace into the rim joists to secure them permanently,
pre-drilling for each screw. Installing Treads Cut the treads to fit over
the stringers, leaving a 3-quarter inch overhang on each side to serve as a
drip edge and keep rain from dripping down onto the stringers. Screw or nail
the treads down into the stringers to finish the stairs.
"noxpurt" wrote in message
...
I have outside stairs on the side of a hill. All pressure treated. Im
using 1/5 x 2 x 12 blocks to support 2 x 12 steps.
WHat is the best way to attached the support blocks to the riser? I used
3 deck screws on each block for one set of steps but Im not sure if those
are the right hardware to use as deck screws may not be meant to take that
shear stress. I could used 16p 3 inch nails, but I would think those
would work out eventually. Lags are very expensive and I was trying to
avoid those.
Any thoughts?