On Fri, 21 Apr 2006 21:08:42 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:
Not much I can add. Press a mirror-image print against the work, dab
and press with a solvent-moistened paper towel to transfer the
unmirrored image of toner to the work. If you foul it up, erase the
work with solvent, and try again with another print copy. A bit tricky
to get the pressure and amount of solvent just right, but cheap to
practice and learn at it. Some of the parts on one of my Web pages show
examples of this method of marking:
http://www.truetex.com/micad.htm
Such as specifically this image:
http://www.truetex.com/micad21.jpg
This is based on the fact that most laser or copier toner is styrene
binder with carbon black pigment and possibly iron oxide developer. The
solvents are chosen to melt and transfer the toner, but applied
sparingly so as to not make the toner run.
Some metals like aluminum (the normal surface oxide, not elemental) are
hard to transfer to, and may benefit from a thin layer of clear Krylon
or epoxy before attempting toner transfer printing. (I leave it to you
to research how one gets Krylon or epoxy to stick to aluminum.)
Depending on how thick the part is, you can also try running it
through a laminator with the laser pattern. I use HP Glossy /Laser/
Photo Paper, (not inkjet photo paper), with a Xerox Docucolor 12 (most
Staples have one of these) to transfer toner to brass in order to do
engraving and etch-through with it. I run them through a GBC Creative
laminator ($50 at Staples) two or three times, then let it soak in
water with a little Cascade automatic detergent. Then I peel as much
paper off as I can, then scrub the rest with a Dobie no-scratch
sponge. I've never had any of the toner scrub back off. If the piece
is too thick to run through a laminator, you could also try ironing
it, but this is less precise and more difficult to get the entire
pattern to stick.
I tried the solvent transfer method a few times but found it terribly
difficult to do without some smearing.
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