"DoN. Nichols" wrote


Based on the 240final.jpg (which you mentioned later in the
e-mail) I think that it would work -- but you won't find a drum switch
with that switching pattern.


Huh, I was afraid i wouldn't. The link posted by Glenn...
http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/ElectricMotors.pdf has illustrations
with that kind of switching pattern but I guess that must just be an
electrical schematic huh? :-( (****ed me off in that article the author
says something like "...you're on your own..." (with the "alternate
switching pattern", which of course MY drum switch has!)) (and i suspect
every other drum switch manufactured in the united states also has.)



What you would need is a high-current multi-pole switch.
Looking at your drawing, I would say that a three pole three position
switch would do. Note that you are using nothing of switch terminal


Yeah, when I was trying to create a mental picture of what I needed I
thought "triple pole dual throw" switch, and tried to find it on on-line
(mcmaster.com, etc) and couldn't.



(C).

So -- let's see:

================================================== ====================
Plug | Switch | Motor
================================================== ====================
Blu
o--------+--------(1)--+WWWWWWWW------------+
(L1)-----+----o------o | |
| o-----+--|--------(4)---WWWWWWWW+----------(3)
| | | Orn |
| | | |
+----o | | Red |
o------o-----|--|--------(2)--+WWWWWWWWW--)|--o/o- +
+----o | |
| | |
| | |
| o-----+ |
(L2)-----+----o------o |
o--------+

(N)-----------(G)------------------------(G)

All three switch elements move at the same time. Center is
STOP, All up is FORWARD, and all down is REVERSE.

"+" s either where two wires join, or bend at right angles

"-|-" is where two wires pass nearby without making contact.

================================================== ====================



I think your ascii got scrambled up.



I've actually used such a switch (with many more than three
positions, but locked to not rotate beyond those three) with the motor
on my old Atlas/Craftsman 6x18" lathe. At the time, I did not know
where to find real drum switches, but I could easily pick up switches
like these at hamfests. It has a bar handle, so it is not that
different from a drum switch in exterior operation, once I put it in a
metal box to keep chips from falling into all of those screw terminals



I'd think that would've been easier than all this hassle.





Essentially, swapping the red and the black wires from the motor
will change what is forward and what is reverse. One of several ways to
do it.

FWIW Normally, the drum switches are set up so FORWARD is moving
the handle to the left, and reverse is moving it to the right. It is


Huh. For me I'd think "intuitive" would be forward/right, reverse/left.
(or maybe that's the way the lathe that i had used in the past was wired and
got used to that.)



good to be consistent with that -- so when you use somebody eles's
machine, you get the expected behavior. And my switch on the
Altas/Craftsman was backwards, so I had to re-train myself. :-)


-snip-


this one is based on Jim's (CRAPPY) schematic. i went back and forth
between Jim's (CRAPPY) schematic

Are you talking about the one from a South Bend manual by any
chance?


I don't konw. Jim posted this link...
http://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/...files/wire.jpg When i
say "crappy" I'm not talking about it's electrical validity, just that it's
SMALL and even if i enlarge it the details are blurry. I guess it isn't
important that I be able to read "BU" or "BK" (or "WIRE NUT" or "SMUDGE")
but coming from where i am, knowing nothing about electric wiring, I felt it
would've been helpful to eliminate any ambiguity. (and i dont' think the
drum switch in the drawing is the same as mine so that made it entirely more
complicated, felt i was on a fool's errand trying to desipher that drawing.)




Can it measure resistance, or just continuity?


I do believe it can measure resistance, I don't know the terms, ohms,
resistance, etc. I put it on the capacitor and it did what i read somewhere
it would, pegged at one end of the scale and rapidly drop to near zero.
It's an el-cheapo "Sperry", i stole it from Home Depot (i'm just kidding)
(teasing Harold).




Hmm ... that enamel on the wire is tough stuff, and is pretty
good insulation. And remember that no single winding on this motor has
more than 120V across it. And there is an additional layer of
insulation wrapped around each winding to separate them where they
cross. And that is quite sufficient.

I don't know how good the polyurethane is, but it is at least
better than not replacing the insulation at all.

I really would not have bothered cutting through the varnish.
Just measuring at the available wires should have been sufficient. Four
loose wires, and one to terminal (1) and one to terminal (4).


Huh. I was trying to find which one was the starting winding (i read the
starting winding used thinner wire, trying to find which color wires went to
the thin wires) but now I'm guessing the starting winding is obvious
because it's the one with the capacitor and switch on it.)




O.K. One suggestion. Don't use white -- look for some other
color, because white should be neutral in house wiring (even though
black is ground in electronics wiring).



OK, thanks.




I was afraid that latter was the reason for the lower-case 'i'.
I opt to go with the standard English language writing process, as it is
easier for others to read. (And the capital on the first word of each
sentence helps to distinguish between a period '.' and a comma ',' --
which are a bit difficult to tell apart on my screen at my usual
distance.


oops.





thanks Don dude!

You're welcome.


You mean 'C' and 'B'? That was for the case of the motor
running the wrong direction when you switch it to forward. Just showing
you one of the easy ways to set things up so the motor runs the right
direction when switched to FORWARD.


Thanks. (Yeah, that's what i meant, 'C' and 'B'.)



The wires on (E) and (F) can be interchanged as well, but I
selected that pattern to make the (L2) hot line jumper between (F) and
(D) short, and not have to jump around the switch. There are also ways
to set it up with (A), (B), (C), and (D) to move that hot line to (C)
and (E), and the other hot to (B). But I started out with one hot to
(A), and that sort of pre-selected (D) as the other hot.

Oh yes -- another thing. The 240dons.jpg image brings another
thing to mind. I don't know how the motor and the switch are mounted to
your lathe, but at least one of them needs to be firmly grounded to the
lathe's frame -- or you need to continue the ground wire off to the
frame as well. Some motors are mounted via a rubber bushing between the


Thanks. Yeah, this motor is w/o rubber bushing, my intent is to rigidly
attach the switch to the headstock casting too.


frame/base and the motor itself, so that would leave the motor floating
relative to the lathe frame. In my case, the drum switch is screwed
directly to the headstock casting, so it is well enough grounded.

Enjoy,
DoN.



Thanks again.

b.w.