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Mark and Gloria Hagwood
 
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Default hot tub temperature

Steve B wrote:
"Mys Terry" wrote

Parts for spas are very easy to get for any brand, regardless of where you
live.
It's called "The Internet".


We purchased a second home in the mountains, that had a spa
from Arctic Spas already installed. Arctic Spas is from
Edmonton, Alberta- about a thousand miles from here. Their
closest dealer is a day's drive away. The spas were
reportedly very upper end and seemed to be well built when I
pulled the redwood enclosure and inspected the pumps and
fittings, before buying the cabin. What I FAILED to check
was the local dealer. After buying the cabin, I learned
that the local dealer had dropped Arctic Spas from its
inventory. I was an orphaned owner, but still covered by
factory warranty. When the inevitable break-downs began to
occur, I contacted Arctic Spas directly.

We reached a gentleman's agreement that if I would do my own
repair labor, they would send me the parts by Federal
Express. Over the years, this worked well and I respected
their responsiveness.

Here are a few of my amateurish observations:
1) Arctic Spas are designed for cold, cold temperatures.
They apply the dense foam to the inside of the enclosure,
and not the tub itself. That way, the pumps, heaters,
electronics and piping is inside the thermal enclosure. It
also makes everything very accessible, which is good.
2) When something breaks on a spa, you will be laying on
your stomach, arms extended for a long period of time. In
freezing weather, this is a royal pain, and only becomes
slightly less so during the summer months.
3) Screws freeze or rust, parts corrode and electronics fail
on spas. If you have to do the work yourself, it's a
continuing pain in the rump.

A) Get a spa where you can see the components, and they are
not submerged and hidden in foam.
B) Be sure the dealer has a long association with the
manufacturer and plans to continue the relationship. Buy
from a good dealer or Sears, not a big-box retailer who has
no established service department.
C) Unless you love laying on your stomach in mud, snow or
ice, arms outstretched, trying to free a rusted bolt with no
room to move the wrench, find out about who does the service
work and if the service department is well established. If
you live in the boondocks, find out if you must pay extra
for a service or warranty call.
D) Only get a spa where you have easy access to all sides.
Despite where the pump and heater are, the leak or problem
will happen in the most inaccessible area.
E) Be sure to have room to lay (in the mud, snow or rain)
all the way around your spa. Don't put it tight against
anything.
F) Locate not only the drain, but also the sump drains for
the pumps. If possible, pipe them to the outside as well so
you can totally drain the spa in freezing weather, if desired.
G) Get the biggest spa you can afford. Get the deepest one,
so that the water comes up to your neck easily.
H) Get lots of jets, big pumps and even an air blower. Be
sure that the heater-only mode is one of the motors running
at low speed. The more bubbles and agitation, the better.
I) Skip the fountains, entertainment center, TV, or wet bar
on the spa. Instead, do them individually and free
standing. They break, can be proprietary to the spa, and
just run up the cost.
j) A cabana to enclose the spa is nice, but not necessary.
It's fun to sit and have snow or sleet coming down on your
head. If it gets bad, a towel over your head keeps all warm.
K) If you DO go for a cabana, get it big enough that you can
change inside, without having to run to the house.
L) Get the cover double bagged, if available. The cover
will eventually saturate with water from the hot spa, and
double bagging slows down the inevitable.
M) Get a "swing back" for the cover. That way, you can just
flip it open or closed without help.
N) Get a spa with plenty of room to set drinks on the rim
above the water.

I'm sure I'll thnk of more stuff later on.

Mark