Harry Kwrote:
mchoghead wrote:
Harry Kwrote:
mchoghead wrote:
(Put a T onto the pipe coming from the pump and put the pressure
tank
on one
side of the T and your spigot on the other. This will provide you
with
water,
while not forcing the pump to run every time you turn on the
spigot.
I
have
something similar to this as a permanent setup for my house. The
pressure
tank is in the wellhouse, which is also a small storage shed about
80
ft from
the house, along with the whole house filter.)

When originally talking to a plumber about doing the work of
installing the pressure tank he had talked about pulling the cap
off
the top of the sub.pump and adding a section thereby bypassing? the
area where the lines run out of shaft underground and into the
house.
Is this a better option? I only plan on using this setup in the
summer
months. Sorry really dont know much about this. Do you mean to
dig
up the line running from the pump to the house,bring the house end
to
the surface and then add a tee connecting the line the spigot and
the
tank. Then I would supply current to the pump? I plan on just
running the wires from the pump to a 220v plugin source by the way.
Also the plumber told me to purchase a bladderless tank with a bung
hole for a vollume control valve(not sure what the purpose of this
is). Then would I charge the tank with air before or after hooking
up
the water/pump and filling the tank with watter? Thanks for any
and
all help. Neal

There are things going on with your system that seem odd. You
apparently have a submersible pump running to the house. To
clarify
what you need to do:

Do you currently have a pressure tank? If so, where is it?
Will there be a problem of freezing in the winter time? If so,
anything you do will need to be drained.

To answer your question abouit the tee: It goes where you want the
standpipe.

I don't understand why you would need to run wires. You must
already
have power to the pump.

The advice to purchase a bladderless tank seems odd. Why add
maintenance problems into the system? I will repeat what I said
prior.
If you have a pressurized system running now, there is no need to
install a tank at all.

Your questions do make sense if the fire wiped out the wiring and
tank.
If that is the case, the advice to install a bladderless tank is
even
more strange.

A short bit on the physics behind a water system using a tank:

Tank contains a certain amount of air.
Pump pumps water that compresses the air bubble.
Pump run is controlled by a pressure switch that is set to turn on
at
some low setting and off at a higher one. Common are 30/50, 40/60
The compressed air bubble pushes the water through the system to
point
of use.
*It does not matter where the tank is located - pressure (static)
will
be identical at all points in the system even at very remote
locations.*

There are constant pressure set-ups but I am not familiar with
them.


Harry K

To help clarify a bit.--- The water lines from the pump ran
underground and into the house to the pressure tank. Also the wiring
to the pump comes off the utility pole into the house breaker box and
back out to the pump(also underground). The pressure tank in the
house
is a loss-very hot fire-hence the need for a new tank. The wiring
will need to be connected from the utility pole to the pump as there
is no electricity running the the house anymore and the house will be
buried soon. This is a temporary setup to supply water for outside
use. I was told I needed a bladderless tank with a volume controll
to make it easier to drain water back in the well when disconnected
for winter months. I am trying to find the easiest way to hook this
up. I have already purchased a bladderless tank and am not familiar
with the standpipe concept but only plan on using in summer months
and draining for winter months. Thanks for all the help and would
appreciate anymore. Thanks Neal
[/quote:1c311aaf3f]

Thkanks, that clears things up. I can now see the problems.

Wiring. If the pole is near the house, the easiest installation would
probably be to connect to the underground lines near it. Dig up the
old pipe/wire line and install breaker box. May need an electrician
for that. You will need to connect the wiring at the well to the
pressure switch on the tank also. Simple wiring diagram

Pole---breaker---well---pressure switch---pump.
Of course if you install a pole and breaker at the well you wouldn't
have to dig up the line at the house.

Standpipe = just the technical term for a faucet on a pipe sticking
up
out of the ground. Best for outdoor use are the frost-free ones.
When
you turn them off, they automatically drain.

I now see the plumber's point of coming straight out of the well by
eliminating (or at least bypassing) the pitless adapter. That is a
diagonal slip connection that slides together and connects the well
pipe with the pipe leading to the house.

Bladderless tank does make some sense there. Should help get air
into
the tank when it is draining.

Sounds like the tank is just going to be setting in the open. In
that
case all you need on it is a hose bib, no standpipe needed.

This does not sound like a DIY job unless you are fairly experienced
with both wiring and plumbing.

Harry K[/quote:1c311aaf3f]


Yeah I guess im kinda leaning towards experience on this one but
thanks so much for all your help. It was most appreciated. Neal