mchoghead wrote:
(Put a T onto the pipe coming from the pump and put the pressure tank
on one
side of the T and your spigot on the other. This will provide you with
water,
while not forcing the pump to run every time you turn on the spigot. I
have
something similar to this as a permanent setup for my house. The
pressure
tank is in the wellhouse, which is also a small storage shed about 80
ft from
the house, along with the whole house filter.)

When originally talking to a plumber about doing the work of
installing the pressure tank he had talked about pulling the cap off
the top of the sub.pump and adding a section thereby bypassing? the
area where the lines run out of shaft underground and into the house.
Is this a better option? I only plan on using this setup in the summer
months. Sorry really dont know much about this. Do you mean to dig
up the line running from the pump to the house,bring the house end to
the surface and then add a tee connecting the line the spigot and the
tank. Then I would supply current to the pump? I plan on just
running the wires from the pump to a 220v plugin source by the way.
Also the plumber told me to purchase a bladderless tank with a bung
hole for a vollume control valve(not sure what the purpose of this
is). Then would I charge the tank with air before or after hooking up
the water/pump and filling the tank with watter? Thanks for any and
all help. Neal

There are things going on with your system that seem odd. You
apparently have a submersible pump running to the house. To clarify
what you need to do:

Do you currently have a pressure tank? If so, where is it?
Will there be a problem of freezing in the winter time? If so,
anything you do will need to be drained.

To answer your question abouit the tee: It goes where you want the
standpipe.

I don't understand why you would need to run wires. You must already
have power to the pump.

The advice to purchase a bladderless tank seems odd. Why add
maintenance problems into the system? I will repeat what I said prior.
If you have a pressurized system running now, there is no need to
install a tank at all.

Your questions do make sense if the fire wiped out the wiring and tank.
If that is the case, the advice to install a bladderless tank is even
more strange.

A short bit on the physics behind a water system using a tank:

Tank contains a certain amount of air.
Pump pumps water that compresses the air bubble.
Pump run is controlled by a pressure switch that is set to turn on at
some low setting and off at a higher one. Common are 30/50, 40/60
The compressed air bubble pushes the water through the system to point
of use.
*It does not matter where the tank is located - pressure (static) will
be identical at all points in the system even at very remote
locations.*

There are constant pressure set-ups but I am not familiar with them.


Harry K