DoN. Nichols wrote:
According to :
DoN. Nichols wrote:
According to :
[ ... ]
Actually it never crossed my mind to rotate the work piece while
machining.(I'd sooner put to the workpiece in the spidle).
If you need to make a groove or a slot which forms only part of
a circle, you'll need to rotate the workpiece in something like an index
head or a rotary table.
Or plunge and file until I get a more reasonable wet-up.(I'll be
checking Home Depot to see if I can find some lathe files).
Lathe files? I think that the answer is no -- given what Home
Depot tends to carry. And any file used on rotating work in a lathe
*must* have a handle, because there is a risk of the end of the file
getting caught on a jaw of the chuck, and the file being driven, tang
first, into your chest.
I want to deburr, clean, upgrade gibs, screws, ect., and correct slop
where needed on my lathe before I begin any project, and I've read here
that files are some of the first basic tools I should have.
If you mean filing the groove to the curve after drilling a
bunch of holes to rough the shape, then what would be quite nice for the
task is a die filer and the proper files for a die filer (which cuts on
the draw, not the press, so it doesn't push the workpiece up from the
table.
Actually, at the moment the only thing I'd have to perform those
operations on is Delrin. So plunge and file should be sufficient.
Note that you will *not* be able to find a *new* die filer.
They are considered obsolete, and the files from them are difficult to
find as well.
MLA makes kits for building a die filer, but that needs more
tools than you currently have.
Then that definitely wouldn't be an option.
-snip-
I assume that making a drawbar is not problem,
Quite easy -- with a quick-and-dirty one using some allthread
(long threaded rod), matching nuts, and a flat washer. Those endmill
holders actually specify the thread, so you can get started on it now,
if you so desire.
Thanks.
but do I really need to
buy a collet closer?:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=2374
At that price, I would not bother to *try* to make one. :-)
The tube is hollow, with internal threads to match the external
threads on the back of the collet. You won't find a tap to match the
threads on the back of the collet, so you would have to master the art
of single-point threading.
The nosepiece is a precise Morse taper (to match the inside of
your spindle), and a precise internal taper and key (to match the
collet), and is hardened and ground to size, not turned.
Only with a Hardinge lathe, whose internal taper on the spindle
matches the collets, can you do without that nosepiece. (Or on the very
few lathes which compete directly with Hardinge as clones.)
Then that specific collet closer is now on my Micro-Mark must get list.
:-)
7582356634 5/8" DRILL CHUCK W/ STRAIGHT / MT / R8 SHANK ARBOR NEW! 1
US $18.95
[ ... ]
And -- a 5/8" chuck takes up more of the limited distance
between the tailstock and the spindle nose. For a 2MT tailstock ram, I
would typically use a 3/8" chuck, or *maybe* a 1/2" one -- carefully.
My 5/8" chuck is on a MT-3 arbor, not MT-2.
I'd like to point out that I'm getting the MT2 version for the
tailstock.: 7530390913
The MT-3 would not fit, anyway. But the arbor taper is not what
defines the amount of space taken up -- it is the overall length of the
chuck body and jaws, which is greater on a 5/8" than on a 1/2" (which
you seem to have now settled upon.)
I wouldn't say "settled".(7603005250) I like to cover all bases. :-)
But I was thinking that perhaps I should use MT3 arbors on all three
and get a separate 3/8" or 1/2" chuck just for the tailstock.(I should
get a rotating tailstock chuck also).
And little Machine Shop actually sells for for my specific lathe:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=1148
Hmm ... the note he
================================================== ====================
Chris' Tips
If you purchase this product you will not have to cut the tang off the
Morse taper. The arbor on this chuck is the correct length for the mini
lathe.
================================================== ====================
suggests that this might be the best choice. And that your tailstock
will not accommodate the tang on drills or other things, so there is not
that anti-spin safety feature.
I'll find out soon. Though I don't see the tang in the picture on the
site, but isn't that needed to keep the chuck from rotating in the
tailstock?(Reading between the lines I think the length of the
tailstock morse taper is unconventional).
I just received the 5/8" chuck, which by the way is just under 3" long.
The arbor I received in a separate box, which has no tang, is an MT2
instead of the requested MT3. So I guess it is a good time to find out
how it fits the tailstock of my lathe before I inform the seller what
kind of arbors I want with the 1/2" and 3/8" chucks I won.
Nevertheless, Plastics like Delrin will be a big part of my projects,
so cutting forces wouldn't be as big a deal with those large chucks.
Speaking of the tailstock. I was wondering what you thought about die
holders. The one sold specifically for my lathe holds 13/16 inch O.D.
dies for threading shafts. The 1/2 inch O.D. shank fits the larger
tailstock chucks and has 3/8 inch hole for threaded stock to pass
through. It's blackened steel with a set screw and wrench to hold the
die.
I prefer to single-point cut most threads, and for other things
I prefer to use Geometric die heads in the turret on my lathe, though I
have used die holders adapted to my lathe on rare occasions.
They are sell an expensive 14 piece tap & die set:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=14153
Most of those are probably smaller than you really need.
But since I am already getting some wrenches(7524114193), I'll get only
what I need for now *the same seller*. I believe these are the standard
sizes: 7532135748
O.K. I'm not sure that you will need the larger ones in that
set, but the whole price is cheap enough -- I just hope that the quality
is there.
I'll find out the hard way. Most, if not all of the stuff this seller
auctions comes from China. The company's site is
www.Shars.com
BTW. I've noticed that the Little Machine Shop site seems to assume
that if people use collets with their mini-lathes, they would be 3C
collets.(So I assume that my specific needs that require 5C are not
normal).
The 5C collets are *gigantic* compared to what is normal with
that lathe. And the major benefit with them on *larger* lathes is that
you can pass 1" diameter stock through the lathe spindle and the collet,
to do production work. (They are also cheaper than 3C collets of equal
quality, because there are so many more made.
BTW. I doubt the collets I now have are really precision. The 33
collets seem to be of four different brands.(At least going by the four
different packages they came in).
And speaking of gigantic that spin indexer is about 9" long from end to
end. At least I'll have it for when I get a milling machine. :-)
Most of my drill will have to be from the head stock because I'll need
to be able to keep re-positioning the work to make a variety of holes
and slots.
O.K. Though a drill press is probably better for this most of
the time.
Ok. I'm still in the market for a good table-top drill press.
O.K. The problem may be the intersection of "good" and "table
top" for new drill presses. Most these days are very cheaply made.
I guess that's why I'm *still* in the market. :-)
Now that I come to think about it, perhaps I should just concentrate on
getting a Mill/Drill instead.
-snip-
I'm looking into the plausiblity of making worm gears on this lathe.
It can be done, though I have never done it.
I'm searching for somne books/sites on this subject.
I am however working on an idea for special gear-making jig. It's king
of an upside-down "pendulum-type" holder located on the slide, with a
crank that will ratchet the work.
I'm afraid that I don't grasp how it works or precisely what it
looks like.
Imagine an arm at 90 degrees to horizontal. At the end of the arm is a
platform on which will sit the gear material(metal disk). This platform
will index, and the arm will tilt bringing the disk into contact with
the rotating cutter.(My other idea involes the plaform sliding the disk
horizontally into the cutter).
Take a look at these: 7598678434 & 7598678968
[ ... ]
I'm told by the seller that the Steel Max saws only come with a mild
steel blade. So I'd need to purchase a separate stainless steel blade
to cut through 1/4" S.S.(Whatever that means).
I would first worry about the noise issue. While the lathe and
the mill will be reasonably quiet, *this* thing will not. For the larger
one, 1450 RPM, combined with the 80 tooth blade for SS, will make for
about a 1.93 KHZ scream. Something which I might live with in my
stand-alone dwelling, with the shop having replaced the two-car garage,
but I don't think that using it in an apartment building would work out.
Yess. The first thing I thought about was the noise also. I don't even
think I coul duse it down in the storage room. But if I can make a
cutting jig of some sort I could find someplace else to knock off
enough plates because it is completely portable. And I'm assuming that
there woul dbe more material wastse than from a capable bandsaw.
Not much more -- unless you can benefit from a curved cut.
If you really want to minimize material waste, find someone with
a shear capable of cutting the material. There should be no waste with
a careful operator.
That would be cost prohibitive.
The blades for this circular saw are about $60. And I wonder if one
could fit on a table saw that was powerful enough.(Though I doubt it,
because the whole set-up sounds like it's proprietary).
Compare the speeds. I don't know what the spindle speed of a
table saw is, but the 7-1/4" saw in your auction before runs at 3600
RPM, and probably would have serious problems at higher speeds.
For aluminum and even brass, you would probably be O.K. but not
for stainless.
Ok. It's obviously best to just by the 4" X 4" plates pre-cut.
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.