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Swingman
 
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Default Hey Swingman - You've Been Plagurized!

"Fly-by-Night CC" wrote in message

I've had an idea in the back of my noggin' for some years now and will
try to put it in our updated kitchen - if it ever happens.


The toekick drawers are very easy to implement if you install the cabinet
side drawer slides in the toekick space on the end panels before assembling
the cabinets. Much more difficult to retrofit unless you are a
contortionist.

We did four of them yesterday in the time it takes to tell.

For a 4 1/2" high toekick space, I've settled on drawer dimensions of 3 3/4"
tall; 18" deep; and 1" less in width than the inside width of the cabinet
with Accuride full extension slides. Those dimensions generally give you the
clearance you need after you apply any extra toekick plate/shoe molding to
the drawer front to match the cabinet run.

One thing to consider is to use an overextension drawer slide. Even with
full extension slides you have the 4" depth of the toekick space to contend
with, which only leaves about 14" of an 18" drawer visible from above when
the drawer is open.

Our kitchen has a cooktop, must be only 3 or so inches in thickness -
current one is gas, but the previous was an electric with similar depth.
I think it would be a very convenient thing to have a pull-out wood
cutting board built into the cabinet immediately below the cooktop. Not
only would it be good for chopping at the stove and an added work space
for pots and pans but a shield for toddlers and small children from
getting burned or turning on the gas, flame or element via any
forward-mount knobs.

The idea originated with the pull-out board on the other side of the
kitchen next to the wall oven and under the microwave cabinet. Our
cabinets appear to be site-built c. 1960.


Pull-outs, of any kind, are in vogue ... I rarely do shelves in standard
depth base cabinets any longer, only pull-outs.

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Last update: 12/13/05