DoN. Nichols wrote:
According to :
[ ... ]
O.K. Note that a spin indexer does not have the worm gear drive
which either a rotary table or an index/dividing head have, so trying to
rotate the workpiece while you are machining may get rather exciting --
it may get away from you and rap your knuckles with the hand crank.
Actually it never crossed my mind to rotate the work piece while
machining.(I'd sooner put to the workpiece in the spidle).
If you need to make a groove or a slot which forms only part of
a circle, you'll need to rotate the workpiece in something like an index
head or a rotary table.
Or plunge and file until I get a more reasonable wet-up.(I'll be
checking Home Depot to see if I can find some lathe files).
I was
thinking that if there isn't a say to lock it,
There is a way -- but it might not be very strong, other than
the pin for setting specific angles.
I'll study it to see what ideas I can come up with.
Note that turning the workpiece in the spin indexer while
cutting can make sense, if you are working with a surface grinder.
Working with a milling cutter, however, risks losing control of the
workpiece.
Too bad a surface grinder is way out of the realm of possibilty right
now. :-(
perhaps I can develop
one.(The entire indexer would have to move up and down on a platform).
I definitely won't be using the collets for tool holding and plan to
bid on a set of endmill holders: 7552009436
O.K. I see a problem with those. They have tanged ends, rather
than ends drilled and tapped for a drawbar. You will have a risk of
things coming loose still.
The tangs are the reason I hadn't bid yet. I wasn't sure what that was
about. @#$%! And I thought I might have been onto a deal.
It would have been a deal -- if you only intended plunge milling
and no side motion. However, with the side motion, you really need a
way to use a drawbar.
Ok.: 7599888531
I assume that making a drawbar is not problem, but do I really need to
buy a collet closer?:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=2374
7582356634 5/8" DRILL CHUCK W/ STRAIGHT / MT / R8 SHANK ARBOR NEW! 1
US $18.95
What are you going to use this (above) on? It seems too big
for a tailstock chuck for your lathe, and way too big for a chuck for a
drill press which you could carry up the stairs. It *might* work in the
headstock, I guess.
Why too big? The auction ad states, "Buyers can choose 1" Straight
Shank or MT2 J3 or MT3 J3 or MT4 J3 or R8 J3 shank arbor. ".
Just because you can *fit* it in the tailstock does not mean
that the tailstock is strong enough to take the cutting forces of a 5/8"
drill bit. You *might* get away with it, if the tailstock has the
groove to hold the tang to prevent spinning the tool in the tailstock
ram. But it can lead to unwanted excitement.
And -- a 5/8" chuck takes up more of the limited distance
between the tailstock and the spindle nose. For a 2MT tailstock ram, I
would typically use a 3/8" chuck, or *maybe* a 1/2" one -- carefully.
My 5/8" chuck is on a MT-3 arbor, not MT-2.
I'd like to point out that I'm getting the MT2 version for the
tailstock.: 7530390913
And little Machine Shop actually sells for for my specific lathe:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=1148
Nevertheless, Plastics like Delrin will be a big part of my projects,
so cutting forces wouldn't be as big a deal with those large chucks.
Speaking of the tailstock. I was wondering what you thought about die
holders. The one sold specifically for my lathe holds 13/16 inch O.D.
dies for threading shafts. The 1/2 inch O.D. shank fits the larger
tailstock chucks and has 3/8 inch hole for threaded stock to pass
through. It's blackened steel with a set screw and wrench to hold the
die.
They are sell an expensive 14 piece tap & die set:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=14153
But since I am already getting some wrenches(7524114193), I'll get only
what I need for now *the same seller*. I believe these are the standard
sizes: 7532135748
BTW. I've noticed that the Little Machine Shop site seems to assume
that if people use collets with their mini-lathes, they would be 3C
collets.(So I assume that my specific needs that require 5C are not
normal).
Most of my drill will have to be from the head stock because I'll need
to be able to keep re-positioning the work to make a variety of holes
and slots.
O.K. Though a drill press is probably better for this most of
the time.
Ok. I'm still in the market for a good table-top drill press.
-snip-
I'm looking into the plausiblity of making worm gears on this lathe.
I am however working on an idea for special gear-making jig. It's king
of an upside-down "pendulum-type" holder located on the slide, with a
crank that will ratchet the work.
-snip-
I had actually had that idea for 36 and 10 before I noticed those
numbers on existing indexers. So it was wasy to deduce the basic of how
they work, because I had basically re-invented the wheel. :-)
Not quite the way the spin indexer works. The 36 hole plate is
a part of the spindle. The 10 holes are part of the base casting. They
are located in an arc, with the ten holes taking up the span of 11 holes
in the plate, so moving the pin from one hole to the next, and rotating
the spindle and plate the minimum to allow it to engage the nearest hole
will move the plate 1/10th of the distance between adjacent holes. This
is quite similar to a vernier.
Well from what you're saying, the basics are the same. With what I'm
designing, one component will allow the work to loack at 36 positions,
10 degrees apart. And a second component will allow 1 degree incriments
and a 10 degreee total.
-snip-
Take a look at these: 7598678434 & 7598678968
I just did. My first thought is that these things are going to
be *noisy*, and not the thing to use in an apartment with neighbors.
The first of them has to be guided by hand, so you would have to
make some form of fixture to hold it and guide it properly.
The second of them is obviously designed for cutting channel,
small I beams, square or round tubing and similar things. While the
vise will open as wide as 4-3/4", it is expecting something deeper than
1/16" plate, and will quite likely distort the plate as you try to clamp
it by the edges. And, that design would have the saw break through in
the middle first, and then work out towards the edges, at which point it
might grab and pull the stainless out of the vise -- and perhaps hurt
someone with the flailing metal.
I'm told by the seller that the Steel Max saws only come with a mild
steel blade. So I'd need to purchase a separate stainless steel blade
to cut through 1/4" S.S.(Whatever that means).
I would first worry about the noise issue. While the lathe and
the mill will be reasonably quiet, *this* thing will not. For the larger
one, 1450 RPM, combined with the 80 tooth blade for SS, will make for
about a 1.93 KHZ scream. Something which I might live with in my
stand-alone dwelling, with the shop having replaced the two-car garage,
but I don't think that using it in an apartment building would work out.
Yess. The first thing I thought about was the noise also. I don't even
think I coul duse it down in the storage room. But if I can make a
cutting jig of some sort I could find someplace else to knock off
enough plates because it is completely portable. And I'm assuming that
there woul dbe more material wastse than from a capable bandsaw.
The blades for this circular saw are about $60. And I wonder if one
could fit on a table saw that was powerful enough.(Though I doubt it,
because the whole set-up sounds like it's proprietary).
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.