Titebond II is a cross-linking polyvinyl acetate - PVA - and does creep
unlike urethane glues (Gorilla).
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB....ne=2?prodcat=1

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:KedUf.11764$wD1.1902@trnddc02...
Pete Stolz wrote:
Hi, I'm making a maple workbench top and I need to glue it up. The
plans (the Veritas Modern Bench) call for epoxy because of the long
working time or PVA or yellow glue. The epoxy was REALLY expensive,
the PVA and yellow are not expensive but the working time is not as
long.

My suggestion would be yellow glue. Specifically, TiteBond type 2. It
doesn't creep like PVA and is water resistant.

You would still have the problem of open time but that is easily solved
by not trying to glue the whole works up at once...just glue together as
many as comfortable. For example, glue together half a dozen; then glue
together another half a dozen; then another six; finally, glue together
the 3 sets of half a dozen. (Note that "half a dozen is not a
suggestion, just an example). Doing it this way also means a better
over all job because less clamp pressure will be needed for fewer pieces
should the edges be less than perfect. Additionally, the edges of the
glued up sets can be joined (if needed) before the sets are glued
together.
_______________

Do I need to worry about their water vulnerabilities?

No
___________

If I do need to go
the epoxy route, where can I get it, and which one?

Epoxy is handy so - for future reference - the #635 epoxy. It is handy
to also have some Cabosil available (same source). It is a very light,
fluffy and fine silica which is used to thicken epoxy. (Epoxy works
best if the joints are *NOT* perfect; if they are *too* less than
perfect, the Cabosil lets the epoxy fill the gaps.)
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html


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dadiOH
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