RicodJour said something like:
Bugs wrote:
I recommend 1/4 or 3/8" dowels glued into holes centered on the
stripped screw holes. Trim flush and reinstall the screws. Much more
secure than the toothpicks or matchsticks that are commonly used, and
it takes not much more time.

Pretty big screw holes to fit a 1/4" or 3/8" dowel. What makes you
think that drilling a larger hole and inserting a dowel makes it more
secure? A stripped screw hole is 1/16" or so oversize - that's all it
take for the screw to spin in the hole.

I'm also not sure how the relative strength of screwing into endgrain
would affect the overall strength of the connection. It's probably not
be a big deal in this instance, but pull out from endgrain is a lot
less than from face grain. Your way is all end grain.
Toothpicks/matchsticks preserves as much of the face grain as possible.

FWIW, when he previously mentioned this idea to me (for strikeplate
remounting) he specified /hardwood/ dowels, even though there is
comparatively very litttle stress on a strikeplate mount. Perhaps he meant
the same here. Perhaps hardwood would add enough strength. Though I
suspect that sidegrain of even cedar might beat the end grain of "hard"
hardwood.

Bugs, your idea for strikeplates, at least, worked very well.



Your way works, but there's an extra operation (drilling) and a
specific piece of wood is required. The other technique can be used
with almost anything on hand. Slivers of wood shaved off some scrap
with a utility knife works just as well as toothpicks.

R



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