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Doctor Drivel
 
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Default Deburring copper pipe


"Cicero" wrote in message
. uk...

"Sponix" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 14:57:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
SuitSat wrote:
I must confess I don't have any issues with my ancient 20 year old pipe
cutter. It doesn't leave burrs. I only have issues when pipe is cut
with
a hacksaw.

Wheeled cutters leave a rolled over lip, though. That's what the 'V' on
the end of most is used for - to remove it.


I'm not sure that it's a problem. So long as any swarf is removed it
should be OK.

What you want to eliminate are any bits that could potentially break
off and circulate in the system, rather than making the end of the
pipe perfectly smooth.

sponix


===================
When I bought my first DIY book on central heating it was stated very
clearly that the internal ridge caused by the pipe cutter should be
removed by the 'V' on the end of the cutter. The reason given was that
this ridge would cause an obstruction to the water flow. After a few
laborious attempts to remove the ridges I decided that they weren't going
to cause much of an obstruction anyway. I stopped trying to remove the
ridges and I've never removed since those first few attempts which usually
left a sharp edge on the pipe.

I doubt very much if there is any real danger of obstructing water flow in
the average DIY domestic installation but the purists (and responsible
professionals) might argue that the ridges should be removed in larger
installations where any possible obstruction should be avoided.


Collectively they do restrict flow and are a ridge to collect sludge and
crud. Use a cone cutter and battery drill/driver to remove the lot in
seconds.