I'm going to try this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7592207825
Providing the chuck jaws open at least 2.4 inches.
I don't consider this to be any better than the Bison collet
chuck in terms of rigidity. And I *think* that the only way to chuck
that in your late is with reversed jaws, which produce too little grip
for that amount of extension.
Funny how "Less then .0002 total run-out" is mentioned, when that
really means little on a set up like that.
That figure is quite important in a normal spindle nose collet
adaptor, but it is meaningless held in a 3-jaw chuck. (You might be
able to get away with a 4-jaw chuck, if you take time to carefully
center it each time you use it -- but the Bison would at least be more
convenient -- and one with the adjust-tru feature should require setting
only once.
I see that you already have it. At least the price was not too
bad. :-)
Actually, I didn't think I'd win it looking at the ended auctions. I
bid low because I figuerd that anything that is supposed to be held in
the chuck taht way couldn't be the best solution.
Now, I 'm looking at a 5" 4-Jaw, because I still need to be able to
turned those 4-1/2" square plate I mentioned.
Are there five sided collets?(Everything seems to jump from four to
six).
Ok. Now I know there are no 5 sided 5C collets.
And do you know *why*? That was part of what I had typed, and
apparently lost somehow.
Here it is:
" Picture trying to hold an odd side count object in a vise. The same
for a wrench. About the only thing that I know of which commonly has
five sides is the fittings on fire hydrants, so normal wrenches won't
work on them, and only people with the right special wrench can turn
them on or off. :-)"
Though I guess it would only be worth it for high production, if one
had a collet vise where one of the two jaws were flat and the other
angled at 72 degress to clamp the opposite two sides of the collet
block it would work. Better yet, an insert on one side with that proper
angle would allow use of a normal vise.(If I could draw ASCII and have
it come out correctly, I;d illustrate it).
For unusual counts, you need a dividing head, or an index head.
You should not start the project with *no* experience. Take it
out, set it up, and play with it. Learn what it can do, and what you
have to do to make it do what you want. You *will* make mistakes, and
it is better to make most of them playing with expendible trial
workpieces instead of the serious ones which you are trying to make.
Try sub-sets of what you need to do, and this way you can learn more
things which you may need to do them.
Perhaps I could use this time working on the lathes tolerance/accuracy
(Of course I'd have to get those gauges in a hurry).
Tool Post
* AXA QC(Wedge Style))
Good -- with the modified compound to adjust the height
properly.
??? I was just about to bid on this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7593068191
But I'm not sure about the "modified compound" you mention.
Tool Holders-For 5/16" shanks(Unless 3/8" is possible)
The AXA holders should accept at least 1/2" shanks. 5/8" is
for the BXA size of toolpost and holders. 3/4" for the CXA size. I
consider 1/2" to be the minimum. 5/16" and 3/8" are too small.
Ok. I was stuck on 5/16" because that is what they say the size is for
the OEM tool post of my lathe(which I will be getting rid of). I guess
it's besst to shoot for 1/2".(5/8 & 3/4" is the sizes for the boring
tool holder).
So here goes.(Not taking into account any tool holders that may already
come with the tool post I buy).
A) Turning/Facing/ Threading(outside)/Threading(inside)
B) Boring
C) Cut-off/ T-profileparing
* F) 5C Collet Tool Holder
Ideally, not the one which you just won on eBay. For end mills,
you are better with Morse taper collets or endmill holders to fit your
lathe spindle's taper.
So I'd have to decide wether or not to stick with end mill holders or
get another set of collets(3C) for the spindle. Hmmm. The end mill
holders would seem to be more reliable, but the 3C would allow me to
work hold.(I did win that 5C collet chuck on eBay that I may be able to
use for light work at least).
I'm also investigating expanding and step collets. Sigh.
BTW. "F) 5C Collet Tool Holder" was a referrence to a tool holder for
the tool post.
(Perhaps I can make a "collet block" tool holder for indexing). :-)
For your work holding, the 5C are only for the collet block, and
the lathe chucks for what you are turing in the spindle.
* G) Morse Taper Tool Holder
O.K. As above.
"G) Morse Taper Tool Holder" also refers to a *tool post* tool holder.
* H) DoveTail Drill Chuck Tool Holder?
They are made. Look for a Morse taper holder which fits the
toolpost. You may have to go to genuine Aloris for this. Make the
Morse taper the same as what you have in the tailstock, so you can use
the same drill chuck in there.
Ok. Let's see. No "DoveTail Drill Chuck Tool Holder".All I need is the
Morse Taper #2 toll holder to allow me to use the center and regular
drills that I'd normally use on the tail stock, correct?
I) Universal Threading & Grooving Tool Holder?
Probably better off with carbide insert tooling for threading.
You'll need a separate one for internal threading, and you'll need to be
more careful of crashes which are easier to create when doing boring or
internal threading.
Crashes?
Ok. Let's see. Forget the Universal and just use a thick parting tool
in the cut-off tool holder for grooving, correct?
Avoid the cheap sets of insert tooling which offer five tools in
one set, each at a slightly different angle. The inserts tend to break
easily, there is no carbide anvil to support the inserts, and the
inserts are more expensive than common industrial ones.
I'm glad you mentioned that. I've been eye-balling "cheap" sets of
insert tooling on eBay.
H) Chip Breaker?
Determined by the grind of the insert -- or the HSS tool bit
which you grind yourself.
I still don't know what a "chip breaker" is.
I) Tool ground?
You mean HSS (High Speed Steel)? Get some of those for things
for which there is no insert tooling available, or when you need
especially sharp (good finish on some plastics.)
Will do.
J) Trepanning tool?
Special purpose -- and better made by hand from the HSS bits for
a given need.
I didn't know what this was either until you mentioned it when we were
discussing making a circular "trench" in stainless steel..
K) Fly cutter?
For finishing large surfaces with a mill. I don't think that a
lathe set up as a mill will be rigid enough for the task.
That's what I was thinking.
L) Radii Cutter?
Do you want to turn balls? If so, then this is nice. But most
of them aren't the right size for your machine.
If I could find it, it would probably be too expensive. And it's
probably better to just but those ball knobs than to try to turn 303
stainless to get them.
M) Rotary Burrs(Shape D & A)?
I don't know the shapes by name. But beware that they produce
nasty sharp chips.
D is a ball end, and A is a cylindrical"no cut" end.(But I'mthinking I
won't need these).
End Mill Grinding Fixture?
Do you have a surface grinder? (*Not* a bench grinder.) If not,
the fixture won't do you any good.
The 2 Flute end mill will be indexable, but I'd still have to figure
out a way to sharpen the ball end mill.
5C Precision 3-Jaw Chuck?
These are small 3-jaw chucks mounted on a 5C collet shank. They
are nice for quickly fitting a small 3-jaw chuck to a large lathe
spindle. I don't see any benefit to you from one at present.
Since it doesn't index, I don't either.
5C Collet stops?
Useful if you want to do production which requires a bunch of
workpieces all set to the same depth in the collets. Probably won't
work well with the collet block.
So I guess I won't really have a use for collet stops.(Even if I get
another set of collets(3C) for work holding in the spindle).
2 PINION LOW PROFILE BISON 5" 5C COLLET CHUCK?
I don't know this one. Unless it is the standard one from
Bison. Better to get the one with the adjust-tru feature. This allows
you to tune out any remaining error in concentricity.
* MT2 Rotabroach Arbor(@#$%! And I just brought a Rotabroach).
?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7591760352
I was discussin it in another thread.("Using A Rotabroach Cutter In A
Lathe")
* Steady Rest(Micro-Mark OEM)
* Follower Rest(Micro-Mark OEM)
Good.
* Face Plate
Does this not come standard with the lathe? The other two
*should* come standard with it, but probably don't.
You mean the rests? Outside of change gears, this lathe(which I think
is the costliest of it's type) came with very little.(I guess they
figured that the extra 2 inches in length and the digital read-outs
were enough).
* Chucking Reamers
* 60 Degree Center Reamer Set
???
I'll hold off on the chucking reamers. I have to learn more about
manual reaming anyway so I can make those tin holes in little rods.
And the 60 degree center reamer set was for when I was thinking of
making a tool holder that could be centered by having a rear hole in
the smae shape as the tail stock center.
lathe Dog?
Not *one* lathe dog, but a set of lathe dogs to handle the range
of sizes which you expect to turn between centers.
And this is the one commonly mentioned item that I've not yet read
about a purpose for.
Milling Attachment?
If you can find one for your machine -- or adapt one made for a
machine of similar size.
I'm told that the OEM isn't worth it and that it is best to just make
my own attachment with an angle plate of some sort.
Rotary Table?
Dividing Head?
Index Plates?
Once you get a milling machine -- and the machine's size will
determine the size of what you want to get.
Actually, I've been studying these items because I've been working on
designing a small indexing jig for drilling/slotting plastic(Delrin),
and I'll probably pick up some index plates to use in it's design.
* Micrometer
* Telescoping gauges
* Run-out indicator
Protractor
Angle Gauge Set
A good bevel protractor should do for most anything which you
really are able to machine with your equipment.
Actually, I already have one of those, which magnifier, blades, ect..
Depth Gauge
Divider
Machinists Scriber
Trammel
This suggests delusions of grandeur. Think of that as a very
large compass -- and none of your machines are large enough to take you
beyond the range of a normal machinist's divider.
Actually, the items I was looking at int he HF catalog are quite small.
BTW Consider a hermaphrodyte caliper as one of the useful divider
class tools.
Ok. Thanks.
Tapping(Tapper) Wrench?
Multiple ones -- for different sizes of taps. Small ones won't
hold large taps. Large ones are too difficult to control well to avoid
breaking small taps.
Die?
Not just one. How many threads will you need to cut? One die
for each. (Assuming that you can't cut the thread directly on the
lathe.)
I've been looking at sets. All I need to make are standard holes from
1/8" to the larger bolt sizes. I still need to find a site that deals
with the nomenclature.
Bench Block? + ?
Hand Reamers?
Cutting/Tapping fluid?
Bandsaw?
Bench Grinder?
How much will your apartment floor hold? Even with small
machines, you're building up a collection of tools there. The bandsaw,
and a *good* bench grinder will weigh as much as the lathe, I suspect.
Well, the floor can support me and I weight well over three times what
the basic lathe weighs.(And well over twice it's length). :-)
The basic machine is only 90lbs(which I think is lighter than most in
it's class). So much for that "more massive bedway" statement in their
advertisment.(They do call it's .47 hp motor powerful).
Anyway, The bandsaw would be for cutting that 1/4" thick stainless I
mentioned.
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.