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Posted to uk.d-i-y
Andy Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Joining Worktops

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 11:58:28 +0000, Chris Cowley
wrote:

I've never joined a kitchen worktop before. My nice shiny new worktop
router jig arrived the other day and the box says that a 1600W router
should be used.

Would I be a complete spaz to try cutting it with my cheap 900W 1/4"
router from Wickes then?


Well...... I could be kind and say that this really isn't a good idea,
but a 6.35mm router is not going to do this job.

- You would have problems in finding a long enough bit - I am not sure
that they even exist - and if they do, the bit will chatter and has a
high chance of breaking and exiting the work area at high velocity.


I hadn't really factored-in buying a big router
as I hardly ever use the thing, so unless my 900W is likely to do a
reasonable job, I may just have to give up on the jig idea and try to
get someone in who knows what they're doing.

My 900W beastie has been fine for cutting decoritive effects into MDF,
and I assumed a big lump of chipboard wouldn't present it with any
problems.



This is definitely a 12.7mm router job. While you can take small
cuts with a smaller router, as mentioned, the depth will be an issue.
The bit is likely to chatter and vibrate horribly.


There are really three choices.

- Go for a reasonable 12.7mm router. This really begins with
something like the Freud at around £160. The cheap Chinese ones at
DIY stores and Argos etc. for £80 or less, are not up to this type of
work if you want a proper result.
You will also need to buy a worktop cutting bit. Costs for a
reasonable CMT or Freud one aout £20



Advantage is that you will have a nice router for other jobs.

- Rent the above

- Get somebody to do the job and return the jig for a refund.


Personally, I would and did buy the router.


--

..andy