Did hard time trying to separate the bargains from the junk at Harbor
Freight this morning. Met a pool cue maker who was buying a lathe for
sanding & polishing only. He gave me the cast iron outboard extension.
(gloat) It's 8" overall, 5" ways plus 3" gap and is quite heavy. I plan
to use a junked banjo that will hold a 1" tool post and turn some 'big
platters'. Should I bolt it in line with the bed of my N3k (180 deg.
headstock swivel) or a right angle (90 deg. swivel) to it? How much
increased swing greater than a N3k's 16" should I consider safe for
turning platters?

Hundred pound lift magnetic grounding blocks on sale at H.F. today.
Mused about welding (would it destroy the magnetism?) a spindle nut or
holding with a bolt in a Jacob's chuck or securing a MT2 arbor to the
top. Then by screwing a 1/4" slice of 3" CRS bar to a wood blank hold
the blank on the spindle via the magnet. Eureka! A permanent magnet
'knockoff' of a vacuum chuck? If you can stop laughing (or gagging)
long enough and _nevermind_ whether my 'magnetic chuck' is any better or
worse than faceplates or a dozen other work holding methods, tell me if
you _think it might work, forgetting safety and usefulness and all that
other unimportant stuff.
Caution: THIS A DANGEROUSLY INVALID QUESTION AND NOT A SUGGESTION. DO
_NOT_ TRY IT

Been asked to turn several 'artistic' copies of coconuts... don't know
why the real & natural nut (no, not me!) isn't preferable? I thought to
turn an oblong sphere with one end blunted and carve the natural
details, but I've never done this. Saw a arbortech (blade) and a
Lancelot (chain) at H.F., each about the same price. If using one of
these is a good idea what are your comparisons re safety, utility, etc.?
If neither is a good idea, how should I carve a faux coconut?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



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