Oleg Lego wrote:

Picture posted to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

A friend and I were discussing ways to drill cribbage board holes with
reasonable accuracy, and this is what I came up with. Remembering that
there was some discussion about this on the wreck, I thought I'd post
it here.
snip
Any and all critiques are welcome.

Should work, but a word of caution (based on my experience with a
similar jig): Be VERY careful that the jig and workpiece stay very
tight to the fence. Get a shaving between the workpiece and the fence,
and you will create an error in that hole, which will start
compounding when that hole is used as the reverence hole on the peg.
I'd suggest filing off the side of the peg farthest from the fence so
that you can always keep the workpiece tight to the fence (but don't
create slop in the direction along the fence.

Here's an alternative, how I would probably do it:

cut a stop block and six spader blocks:
1 width spacer is the length of the workpiece, and the width of the
distance between centers of the two rows of holes.
1 group spacer is the length of the distance between groups of holes
4 hole spacers are the length of the distance between holes (I'd make
these by ripping, then thicknessing a piece to desired spacing, then
cutting into 4 blocks.

To use, set the stop block on the left, and move the fence back to
register for the row of holes farthest from the fence. Align the stop
block to target the hole farthest from the block. So if the stop block
is on your left, you will first drill the lowest right-hand hole.
Then insert the width spacer to drill the opposite hole, insert one of
hole spacers between the workpiece and the stop block, drill, remove
the width spacer, drill, ... ending up with the group spacer to drill
the first pair of holes in the next group. Then with the workpiece
held steady, remove the spacers and register the stop block to the
workpiece, clamp it, and with the drill off confirm that the bit is
still registered to the last hole you drilled. Then repeat.

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