In article , Harold and Susan Vordos says...

I can provide one difference. Silver solder does not build up in similar
fashion to bronze brazing.. Who amongst us hasn't seen some serious
"beads" of brass built up on cast iron? Try that with silver solder.
Doesn't work, nor is there much benefit in doing so, anyway. . Joints for
silver soldering are generally set up quite precisely, due in part to silver
solder's limited ability to fill.

You can build up silver solder if you keep the temperature below the
flow point. Even the handy and harmon ez-flow does that, when I'm
flowing a joint I like to deposit a tiny ball of solder on the
workpiece. As the heat builds the flux flows out, then the ball
beads up and sticks to the work. More solder added at this point
will look just like the brass welding rod you buy at the hardware
store. Chunky.

Instead what I do is wait till the ball flows out, then the
whole thing is up at temps and the joints runs nicely. It doesn't
fill, but it sure does flow. The man that taught me silver
soldering told stories about brazing gun barrels during ww2.
They used to press in the liners, get the entire thing hot,
and wipe the one end with the solder. The other end five
feet away would show the ring of solder appear all around,
if the joint was done right.

But the brass rod sold at the hardware store can be used to
to flow out, but it has a wider eutectic range. It's easier to
hold the part such that you can build up large beads like you
mentioned. I've never found joints like that to be terribly
strong so I prefer to keep on going and flow it out more.

The difference is in degree only I would say.

Jim


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