"charlie b" wrote in message
...
I use carbide toothed table saw blades, sliding compound miter saw
blades and a sh*t load of router bits - all on wood. Clearly
cardbide cutting edges WILL can make glass smooth cuts, both
ripping, cross cutting and routing - including acrossed
end grain. Of course, in these applications, the RPMS are
in the 5K range for saw blades and 20K-30K for router bits.
Knots don't seem to be an issue with these cutting tools.
Perhaps the rpm range of most turnings is the problem.

The proper analogy would be sandpaper, not a gouge for those actions. Many
and small bites. The gap at the center of a split knot can bite off
carbide, of course.


As for the surface left by a carbide cutter, what I was talking
about is roughing, both outside and inside a piece. Use the
finest edge tool when it makes a difference, and the carbide
tool to do the grunt work required to get cose.


Dont use the finest tool to rough? THAT is an excellent philosophy. Why use
that powdered metal gouge where it might lose the lasting edge from an
encounter with crud under the bark? Use a pattern that removes stock
quickly - and here's where scraping falls by the wayside - and with little
effort by the turner against the wood. Won't matter if you're cutting acid
wood and the edge pits and corrodes, either, because it it a short-lived
one.

But if you enjoy sharpening . . .


Compared to being beaten to death trying to force a dull tool - I love it.