"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
: On Wed, 04 Jan 2006 03:31:45 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Dave
: Jackson" quickly quoth:
:
: I picked up one of these a couple of months ago. Sure has
come in handy for
: getting nice cuts in tight spaces. Has almost replaced my
flush cut hand
: saw. Check it out, may be just what you need-
:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...&s=hi&v=glance
: --dave
:
: I got their 9-1/2" version for $26 delivered via the FWW ad.
It'll cut
: a tubafore in half more quicly than a freshly sharpened Disston
and
: only use about 1/3 the effort in doing so! They're simply
amazing.
:
http://thejapanwoodworker.com/produc...ept_ id=13088
: I want the hardwood version next.
:
http://thejapanwoodworker.com/produc...ept_ id=13088
:
: This is by far the best saw I've ever owned, and it's one of
the
: cheaper varieties that they sell at $30. Pro models are up to
$90.
: I love the ryoba shape, and the handle can be offset either way
to
: get into tight spots.
:
: Regarding cutting the countertop splash, perhaps he can also
cut it
: from the inside of the cupboard below.

There's no name on it, but I've got one that's just great, and
very old to boot. The teeth on one side cut on the pull, the
other side cuts on the push, and it's curved slightly - you can
get an almost perfect cut right up flush with it.
You can't beat the tooth design on yours though; got a backsaw
like that and it's great.

With patience, these would work for that countertop but I think
I'd just find a flush-cut jigsaw blade or get out my sawzall with
a short flush-cut blade. It'd depend on how much the surrounding
damage mattered.
Sometimes tilting the front of the jigsaw up to get most of
the undercut done and then a hacksaw blade in a vice grip or
something to finish the last of the cut works too.

Pop