In article ,
Russwizinsky wrote:
It is a dual voltage motor, but I wired it up as 110.
O.K. There was another followup to my article which described
how to do it with 120V -- though it does not open *all* wires to the
motor with the switch. It keeps the neutral (plus ground) connected,
which is reasonable enough for 120V wiring.
I don't yet have 220 in
my garage, and would like to sell the beast at a later time and purchase a
newer one. I couldn't find the spot on your web site with that diagram.
For the very good reason that I have never *put* it on my web
page. I mentioned ASCII graphics, which indicated that it was probably
in a usenet posting, and it was -- in this very newsgroup, at least
twice, and I suspect more than that. You could find those using google.
O.K. I've now made a quick-and-dirty downloadable schematic.
The URL is:
http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/PROJECTS...or-reverse.pdf
Note that it is in PDF format. You will either want to download
it to a file, and print that later using Acrobat reader, or view it and
attempt to print it from the screen. I don't use any wire names on the
motor, or terminal names on the drum switch, simply because these vary
from unit to unit. You're better off figuring out from the wiring data
on the label (often under the wiring plate on the motor, and stuck to
the inside of the drum switch housing. And the junctions between the
centrifugal switch, the starting winding, and the starting cap are often
buried inside the motor, with only two wires brought out as the ends of
the series connection. It really doesn't matter what order the switch,
cap, and winding are in -- in series is in series. :-) I drew them as
was convenient for me. Your motor may well differ, and it doesn't
matter.
The crossover wiring is often built into the drum switch --
either by the design of the wafers in a wafer switch, or as dark wires
permanently built into the switch, and rather hard to see. (I've got
examples of each, and I'm sure that here are others.) What I have drawn
would be sufficient to use with any 3PDTCO switch. The main thing about
the drum switches is that one input terminal connects to the same output
terminal in either FWD or REV position. The other two input terminals
connect straight through to the corresponding output terminals in FWD
position, and each connects to the other terminal in the REV position.
I've drawn the first one as the center switch section in my drawing, and
the other two are the top and bottom sections. In real switches, the
connect straight through in either position will probably either be the
first or the last of the three decsl.
Oh yes -- I forgot to draw in the safety ground, which is
connected from the safety ground at the outlet to the frame of the
machine tool and the motor, just to be sure.
I'd
be very interested in viewing it.
Russ
www.professorwiz.com
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. |
http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---