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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
Ron Coffey writes:
Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. Surely if there is no direct replacement, it must be possible to make an adapter plate? |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
Now I'm not sure if it is a J2 head. It is a 1 hp , belt pulley type not the
variable. I have plans on making the rotary converter, but was just wondering what the big deal and headache was to trying to find a single phase motor instead. Thanks for the info and I would like to see the "adapter plate" idea that Russ is talking about also. "DoN. Nichols" wrote in message ... In article , Ron Coffey wrote: Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. Those motors are rather special to Bridgeports, and rather expensive -- especially the pancake-style ones used for the variable speed heads (and I think that the J2 is a variable-speed, and I *think* also a 2HP motor, not 1 or 1-1/2 HP. When rebuilding the motor on mine, I had to spend something like $800.00 just for a new shaft with a rotor already installed -- with the old one as a "core charge". Consider the complete motor as being significantly more than that -- and even more wired for single phase. (I'm not sure whether there is sufficient room in that housing for a centrifugal switch, which would be needed for the single-phase version.) The only time that replacing it might make sense is when the motor is damaged, and has to be replaced anyway. Instead -- why not *make* three phase for the Bridgeport? You have two reasonable choices, starting with a 240V outlet in your shop. 1) Build a rotary converter out of a larger three-phase motor. (A 3HP would be plenty. A 2HP would probably do for the 1HP version.) A google search for "rotary converter" on this newsgroup will pick up tons of discussions on how best to do this. 2) Pick up a VFD. This gives you the ability to vary the speed of the motor as well. Do a search for "VFD" on eBay. Look for one about 50% higher horsepower than your motor to allow for the fact that is running from single-phase instead of three-phase. There are a couple of suppliers often quoted when this comes up. I remember "Dealer's Electric" as being one of them, but I forget the other name. Someone else here will almost certainly post it. Option (1) would probably be cheaper, unless you are really no good at scrounging. Option (2) gives you more control of the motor. And I'll bet that it will be a lot cheaper than finding a single-phase motor which will fit the Bridgeport. (Especially if the Bridgeport has a variable-speed head, in that the motor has a *long* keyed shaft about 1" diameter which drives the fixed and sliding halves of the variable-speed pulley. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
"Ron Coffey" wrote in
: Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. tia, Ron I wouldn't bother. Go to http://www.dealerselectric.com and buy one of their 1hp Teco Westinghouse VFD's for about $150. Else build a rotary converter. you could instantly reverse the motor (tapping) if you did.... Marty |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
I made a adapter mount that allows me to use any 56C size motor. If I
recall correctly I also had to make a sleeve for the shaft. stan Ron Coffey wrote: Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. tia, Ron |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
..
My Model M head has a nice 3/8" adapter plate. Simple and works good. The motor is a Gryphon, from the UK I believe. The motor is quite tall, maybe twice as "long" and 1/2 the diameter as the original pancake would have been. Take care. Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 04:02:19 -0500, Richard J Kinch wrote: Ron Coffey writes: Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. Surely if there is no direct replacement, it must be possible to make an adapter plate? |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
Hi Ron
How about taking the guts out of the motor on the mill and just use it for a jack shaft to hook an other motor to the mill? GD Ron Coffey wrote: Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. tia, Ron |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
I may have to give that one some thought......hmmmm.
I guess since I'm almost finished with the rotary converter I should try it first but I still like the idea of having only single phase in the small shop (garage). A jack shaft is something I could do..... hmmmm. thanks GD, Ron "GD" wrote in message ... Hi Ron How about taking the guts out of the motor on the mill and just use it for a jack shaft to hook an other motor to the mill? GD Ron Coffey wrote: Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. tia, Ron |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
In article ,
Russwizinsky wrote: I've made one and was going to put some plans for it and the required switch modifications up on the inet for a small fee, I never got around to it yet. The adapter plate is pretty simple, but you'll also need to hook up a relay so when you click your switch off it'll actually turn all the power off to most of the single phase motors. An electriction friend of mine tried for about a month to do it with out having an extra relay in there but it just wouldn't work out. I'll post some picks on my web site tommorow for you to check out. If it is a dual voltage (e.g. 120/240V) single-phase motor, and you're operating at the higher of the two voltages, there is a way to do it with the standard drum switch for thee-phase motors. I've posted an ASCII drawing of the wiring needed at least a couple of times -- once within the last month, I think. No relays needed at all. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#9
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
It is a dual voltage motor, but I wired it up as 110. I don't yet have 220 in
my garage, and would like to sell the beast at a later time and purchase a newer one. I couldn't find the spot on your web site with that diagram. I'd be very interested in viewing it. Russ www.professorwiz.com |
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
In article , DoN. Nichols says...
If it is a dual voltage (e.g. 120/240V) single-phase motor, and you're operating at the higher of the two voltages, there is a way to do it with the standard drum switch for thee-phase motors. I've posted an ASCII drawing of the wiring needed at least a couple of times -- once within the last month, I think. No relays needed at all. I am willing to go farther out on a limb, and say it most certainly can be done with a 120 volt motor as well, using the standard three pole, center off, three position drum switch. I know because I've done it on my 9" south bend, and others as well. The essence of it requires, however, that there be seven or so wires in the conduit between the switch and the motor. And further that most of the leads in the motor be connected to. The motor is basically two, two terminal devices. The run winding is one, and the series combination of the start winding, centr. switch, and capacitor, is the other. That gives four leads in the conduit right there. The thermal overload protection gives two more, because that has to interrupt the main power, and the green ground wire is the seventh. The drum switch has one pole that interrupts the run winding's hot leg, and the other two poles are cross-wired to reverse power direction to the start windings. This sort of system is best wired up using liquid-tite conduit between the motor and drum switch, because one can pull the exact number of THHN conducors into place neatly. It works with half inch liquid tite and makes a nice job. There is never any need to employ relays or extra contactors for machines like this. Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
#11
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
In article ,
Russwizinsky wrote: It is a dual voltage motor, but I wired it up as 110. O.K. There was another followup to my article which described how to do it with 120V -- though it does not open *all* wires to the motor with the switch. It keeps the neutral (plus ground) connected, which is reasonable enough for 120V wiring. I don't yet have 220 in my garage, and would like to sell the beast at a later time and purchase a newer one. I couldn't find the spot on your web site with that diagram. For the very good reason that I have never *put* it on my web page. I mentioned ASCII graphics, which indicated that it was probably in a usenet posting, and it was -- in this very newsgroup, at least twice, and I suspect more than that. You could find those using google. O.K. I've now made a quick-and-dirty downloadable schematic. The URL is: http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/PROJECTS...or-reverse.pdf Note that it is in PDF format. You will either want to download it to a file, and print that later using Acrobat reader, or view it and attempt to print it from the screen. I don't use any wire names on the motor, or terminal names on the drum switch, simply because these vary from unit to unit. You're better off figuring out from the wiring data on the label (often under the wiring plate on the motor, and stuck to the inside of the drum switch housing. And the junctions between the centrifugal switch, the starting winding, and the starting cap are often buried inside the motor, with only two wires brought out as the ends of the series connection. It really doesn't matter what order the switch, cap, and winding are in -- in series is in series. :-) I drew them as was convenient for me. Your motor may well differ, and it doesn't matter. The crossover wiring is often built into the drum switch -- either by the design of the wafers in a wafer switch, or as dark wires permanently built into the switch, and rather hard to see. (I've got examples of each, and I'm sure that here are others.) What I have drawn would be sufficient to use with any 3PDTCO switch. The main thing about the drum switches is that one input terminal connects to the same output terminal in either FWD or REV position. The other two input terminals connect straight through to the corresponding output terminals in FWD position, and each connects to the other terminal in the REV position. I've drawn the first one as the center switch section in my drawing, and the other two are the top and bottom sections. In real switches, the connect straight through in either position will probably either be the first or the last of the three decsl. Oh yes -- I forgot to draw in the safety ground, which is connected from the safety ground at the outlet to the frame of the machine tool and the motor, just to be sure. I'd be very interested in viewing it. Russ www.professorwiz.com Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#12
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Bridgeport single phase motors ?
In article ,
Stanley Baer wrote: Ron Coffey wrote: Is there a replacement from a 3 phase to single phase motor for an older J2 type bridgeport head? Around a 1 to 1/12 hp. tia, Ron I made a adapter mount that allows me to use any 56C size motor. If I recall correctly I also had to make a sleeve for the shaft. Yours must be the kind with the motor above the belt housing. Mine (the Series-I CNC) has the motor below the belt housing, and anything longer than the original "pancake" motor would hit the ram. (Of course, in my shop, I don't have enough overhead clearance for a longer motor above the belt housing anyway. :-) It makes me glad that this uses a quick-change spindle, and thus I don't need to get to a drawbar. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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