Here is a picture of one of my lathes with an outboard chuck. One of
these days I wil paint that lathe, but it is a great lathe all the
same.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/...0894&members=1

Cues are light but easy to damage. You can wreck hours of work in a
second. A six jaw chuck on the front is in my opinion a must for cue
work.
Good Luck



Grant Erwin wrote in message ...
Remove the chuck and put a DTI on the spindle itself. It should
be well within .001" TIR.

Grant

J. Alan wrote:

I have a couple of questions I thought I would throw out to the group.
I am an amateur cuemaker of sorts. Recently however I came upon a
used metal lathe that I have since found it to be one of the Taiwan
made Enco lathes dated 1987. The headstock has a self centering 3 jaw
chuck, however when I chuck up a piece of stock I can see with a dial
indicator that there is some runout. Is there an easy way to check to
see if the runout is in the chuck or in the spindle bearings? If it
is in the chuck has anyone every tried
resurfacing the jaw faces some by using some type of boring bar or
tool post grinder? Would this help the problem just at one point or
for several diameters? If this is not the "solution" what would be
the next step to try, besides replacing the chuck? I have never
replaced a chuck before on one of these lathes, but I am very
mechanically inclined, however I still would like some guidance on the
subject. I have seen some of the "adjustable" three jaw chucks for
around the $250 range at places like Enco sale flyers, etc. Are they
any good for the $$$ your spending? or should I save up for a $1500
chuck ( worth more than my whole lathe! ).

The second question I have is, what do cuemakers (and anyone else who
is forced to work on long stock that passes through the headstock)
usually do to solve the left side of the headstock dillema? Do most
people mount a second three jaw chuck on the back side of the
headstock? Or are some type of shims or collets used? Ordo they rely
soley on the length of the jaws in the front chuck to keep things
lined up, since we are talking fairly lightweight pieces of wood.

Right now the Enco has some type of rotating lightweight chuck
assembly with "RIDGID" stamped on it. So I can only assume that it is
something used in pipe threading or some type of pipe work, however I
am not sure how accurate it is, plus it tightens by rotating the
device around your work, similar say to a speedchuck in a regular
drill. I havent had a chance to put an indicator on this Ridgid
contraption but I would wager it is no where near accurate enough,
however I may be wrong. Has anyone had any experience with one of
these? If you want to see what I'm talking about email me and I will
send some pics.

Sorry for the long post, but if you read this far thank you. Please
feel free to forward all replies directly to me if you wish.

Thanks!

Jeff Smith
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