Sounds like a plan--I'll use the fadal table as a welding table... Which I
think someone is already doing w/ their plasma cutter!

JIC people don't know the difference (and elegance) of your wire wheel
solution, and Kal's:
Your wire wheels are sprung on either side of the blade, just like the guide
bearings.
Kal's is a single wire wheel held *under* the blade. Pretty much works, but
is kind of crappy.
Yours sounds like a really good idea, altho might it be better if they were
not totally free-wheeling on the blade, for some frictional scraping?

The limitation on both brush methods, however, is that this cleaning action
occurs *after* the post-cut guide bearings--altho I'm not sure how much of a
limitation this actually is.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
et...
Here's a new one for you: Weld and brush at the same time...hook one lead
from your stick welder to a power brush or, hell, just use straight 220,
and the other lead to your workpiece or some fancy new machine and start
brush-welding!!! (remember to wear eye protection)


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Oh, I didn't realize Tom had in fact suggested *two* wire wheels,
sprung...
Autopilot, donchaknow--proly set to burn down my next g-d machine w/
incorrect voltages....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Pete,
This sounds really neat, novel, mebbe perfect! And more than a just a
good idea, as you have a working version!

Can you give more particulars, like how the block is held on the blade,
the path of the air, etc.?
Source for needle valves?

If I infer correctly, your air comes straight from the top of the U.
I wonder if holes lower down, just above the kerf, wouldn't be
better--more effective, w/ less air.
Ahm thinkin mini-manifold here, that could deliver both coolant *and*
air, at different points/angles to the blade....
Also, if the sides of the U project down below the teeth, the air force
might be amplified a little *and* the chips better directed downward.

Also, it might be that the best, if not the most convenient, place for
this unit would be before the second set of guide bearings, so's the
blade would go thru these bearings chip-free--might add some life to all
parts concerned.

Howz the air noise??
Have you noticed any improvement in saw performance, reliability, blade
longevity, etc. as a result of this item?

If worse comes to worse, I'll do sumpn w/ a wire wheel (mebbe two, like
the guide bearings, but sprung on the blade), but I'm definitely up for
your idea, skill-set permitting....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
oups.com...

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my
bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important
machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume.
Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which
is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive
wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over
the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off,
get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each
set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays
the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge
chips, cuz
it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow.
Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or
even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip
dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much
about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!
The
spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip
dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs...
But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention literal
high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the
wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really
effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and
put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

What you want is a guide that just clears the blade, a U shaped piece
if you will, that you connect via a needle valve to the air suply.
Basically it is a small steel block, with a slit just big enough for
the blade to clear. The top of the block has a hole for the air line.
Maybe 1/8" npt.
Anyway, that's what I got, it sure works slick, and you want the needle
valve, so you can match the air blast to the job.
It is bolted to the saw blade guide.
An employee made this for me one day, he liked it so much at his former
job.

Pete