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Name
 
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Default Kerosene Heater and De-humidifer Combo?


"Name" wrote in message
news:tgRlf.610017$_o.304484@attbi_s71...

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Name wrote:

"rigger" wrote in message
oups.com...

Mike Berger wrote:

Maybe, but then you'll be using a lot more energy overall to heat
the place, and stand the chance of dying from the combustion fumes
and lack of oxygen as well.

Name wrote:

In the "how to heat a two stall garage" thread, someone mentioned

that

a

kerosene heater would cause a lot of moisture in the garage. How

much
moisture will there be? Could I just use a low-cost (normal store

bought)

de-humidifier to make it normal humidity?

Thanks.



Like any heating device if a kerosene heater is operated and

maintained
properly there is no problem using it inside for long periods of time.
A dehumidifier would certainly add cost but, depending on the brand

and
etc., could be effective.

Just guessing but I imagine the amount of water to be removed won't be
more than the amount of kerosene supplied (recombining the hydrogen in
the kerosene with oxygen??). Maybe someone who understands the
chemistry involved can tell us for sure.

dennis
in nca



I am going to just use the heater for a little while, evaluate and go

from
there. Thanks for the advice.

I think the kerosene combines with the oxygen in the air to some

ratio,
and
that is where it gets some of the water creation during burning.

Either
way, I need to see just how much moisture is going to be produce

before
and
if I decide to get a dehumidifier.

Thanks.



Go ahead, just remember, you were warned. If you open a window or do

something
else to introduce oxygen, you will not experience oxygen depletion.

That's
fine
for normal people, but you have a shop full of ferrous objects. When you

burn
any hydrocarbon, the basic reaction is that the byproduct is water

vapor.
In a
shop, you HAVE to vent the kerosene exhaust completely or your machines

will
rust quickly.

You have been given some marginal advice. The guy who dumped the MSDS

didn't
realize that your concern isn't only safety for humans, it's also

preventing
rust to your machines. Water vapor in say a bedroom is a good thing.

Often
in
winter the air is very dry and adding some humidity makes it feel

warmer.
That's
why you see those cast iron kettles on wood stoves, just to add steam to

the
air. Yes, it's safe to use a clean well adjusted kerosene heater inside,

but IT
WILL RUST YOUR MACHINES.

I would never ever trust a dehumidifier. Not for one millisecond. Trust

a
chimney.

GWE


Actually, the largest machine currently in my garage is a 6" bench

grinder.
I usually keep it in a drawer when I am not using it.

I bought a carbon monoxide detector with a level gauge and a
thermometer/hygrometer (humidity level). I am going to check various
situations and see what works best.

Thank you for the suggestions.



Here is a follow up. I found a combination I am happy with. Keeping the
attic's fold - up ladder/door open allows the garage to get "warm enough"
(60 degrees) with apparently enough ventialtion. It was 30 degrees outside.
It's only a little stinky and a lot warmer. Humidity is greater, but maybe
by 10% or so. I think the cold, dry air form outside rushing in causes
this. When the heater is run when it is rainging outside, humidity from
outside coming in is far worse than what is caused by the heater. The CO
detector has a "highest level recorded" memory setting. It is still on
zero.

Just for testing purposes, I ran the heater with no ventialation for a while
and it gave me a headache. When I ran it with the attic door open, I got no
headache.

I suggest getting a hygrometer if moisture is a concern.

Thanks.