"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Mike Dobony wrote:
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
m...
Mike Dobony wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
" Maybe someone needs to take another look at the door or the
mounting of
the openers. There just should not be that many failures. If the
door is
properly installed and a properly sized opener or any make
properly installed should be able to function. "

I agree. And has the door been checked out during cold weather,
which is apparently the problem? A garage door shouldn't be very
different in opening force in cold weather. It's possible
something is shrinking and binding. What kind of lubricant is on
it?

With the opener disconnected, the door should move easily up and
down with one hand. At about the mid-point of travel, it should
be just about balanced so that it will stay there if you let it
go.


It has been professionally checked in cold weather operates fine by
hand, but not with the various openers. The door was also
professionally installed. I have tried a tremendous variety of
lubridants, none of which makes any lasting change (longer than 1
day). The rollers are all free-wheeling. None of them is ever
sticking. I have to check to see if thye are the cheap plastic
bushing rollers or good all metal ones. If plastic, I will change
them out.

Checked or not there is some thing wrong with the door, it's
installation or the installation of the openers. Of course it is
possible all those openers were defective, but it is also possible
they were all hit by lightning.

How would a lightning strike cause it to open part way or close part
way, and then reverse? How would a lightning strike only cause the
problem in cold weather? ALL the openers do the same thing, sense an
overload and reverses. Raise the opening and closing force and it
works for a short time. Raise the force to max and it still does
this! I am ready for a new opener with service support to come and
deal with the situation if it arises again. I'll let THEM deal with
it. Hence the original question regarding Chamberlain LiftMaster
versus the Allstar. Any comments on the question instead your lack
of suggestions?

I was using the lightning strike as an example of how un-likely it
is
that the units were all bad. Not that they were all actually hit by
lightning.


You just have not yet found the problem.


And neither have the pros! Therefore I am ready to get something
better than the DIY openers found in the stores and have someone else
do the install AND the service.

I suggest that replacing openers is not going to help. There is no
reason why the ones you have tried be fore would all be bad. It is
almost
certain that there is something there that you have not replaced that is
causing the problem. You would only be putting in a more expensive
non-fix.


Okay, then give me some ideas instead of saying to fix it and say noting
to
look at! I have had several professional door people look at it and THEY
find nothing wrong with the setup except to say it is a very heavy door.
The only other thing to replace is the whole door!


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit




Since you said it had rollers I will assume it is a roll down sectional
door. I just remembered a big slab door in California where I was helping a
friend install an opener. The top of the door did not follow a continuous
line in the up direction.

That is about half way up it actually went into reverse for a short
distance. The door would get almost open and then the bottom would move out
away from the garage while the door was moving to a horizontal position.
One more or less level it would then move into the garage.

We had to play with the door mechanism for quite a while before we got it
to where an opener could handle it.

And you were talking about old time openers. My first one was a Heathkit.
The "safety mechanism" was a spring loaded trolley. It the door became
stalled it had to push hard enough to pull the door bracket out of the
trolley. With a big heavy slab that spring had to be so tight that most
anything that got under the door would be crushed before it would release.

The reverse mechanism consisted of two nuts riding on a threaded shaft.
The nuts were kept from turning by a metal plate. Between the two nuts was
toggle switch. When the door reached one extreme the nut was supposed to
flip the toggle switch to reverse the motor.