On 14 Nov 2005 08:34:55 -0800, wrote:

Hi Ruth,

Is there a preference of glue when doing metal to wood?

Absolutely, as far as I'm concerned. Definitely want something
pliable, (ie. non-brittle, like epoxy or CA) which will allow for the
differential expansion/contraction of wood vs. metal in various
humidity and temperature situations.

I've been
highly recommending Tite Bond II as a bond for woodturnings on my
stainless steel bottle stoppers.

I've never used this with wood + metal, personally, although I do like
it for wood + wood.

At the show in NC one of the reps
from another booth said he would use either epoxy or Gorilla glue.

I wouldn't use epoxy for the reason aforementioned, although in all
honesty I haven't had many epoxy bonds break. The potential _is_
there, though, because of the brittleness of the cured material.

I have never had one of my stoppers come loose using Tite Bond II.

I was thinking more of age being a factor, rather than seeing an
immediate result.

Doesn't Gorilla glue foam up, and doesn't it have a shorter shelf life?

It does foam a little or a lot, depending on the amount you use, the
tightness of the joint and the wetness of the wood. That said, if you
are careful not to use too much, have a reasonably tight joint and to
coat any surfaces that you are afraid of being foamed-on with paste
wax, the stuff just comes right off if it foams. AAMOF, I don't even
bother with the paste wax and I almost never have a problem carefully
flicking the stuff off the finished wood. YMMV in this regard,
though.

As with all things, you get what you pay for, and what you pay for in
prep and care before gluing you reap the results of in a superior
bond. I have used this stuff for years, and even used it to apply the
barrette backs to barrettes that I used to make...no joint, just plop
the back into a puddle of the glue. Nearly 10 years later the bonds
are just as strong as ever, and the backs are exposed to
alchohol-based hair products and the constant flexing of opening and
closing the barrettes. My wife has probably 15 or 20 of them and uses
them all the time.

As far as shelf life goes, if you squeeze the air out of the bottle
after every use, the stuff lasts a long time. I've got a bottle I've
been using for over 2 years (you don't need much of it!) and it seems
to bond as strong as it ever has.

Does all epoxy need to be 2-step and have a short working time?

Pretty much "yes" as far as the 2-part deal, but there are epoxies
that have quite a long working time.

I've tried quite a few different types and brands of adhesives over
the past 30 years of woodworking, and for my money, the most
versatile, strong bond I've found is with the polyurethane adhesives.
I use Titebond II, epoxies and CA glues for various things, but if I
had to be "stuck" with just one glue, it would be Gorilla Glue, hands
down. It's waterproof, shock-resistant, gap-filling, bonds almost
anything to anything...personally, I don't think you can beat it for
an all-around glue.

By the way, I want to thank all of you who stopped by my booth at the
Albany, Ohio or NC show to introduce yourself and it was nice to visit
with some old friends from this group. It really is nice to see
someone you've just "read". : )

It was such a great pleasure to meet you in Albany. I felt so bad
that I had to leave before we had a chance to really get to talk much,
and if my wife wasn't with me I might have flirted a bit more.
] ; )


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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