I think I'm going back to a lock joint or mitred lock joint for the front.
Only because I am going to use a solid material, solid or laminated. I've
got some Any articles or comments on the use of the mitred lock joint router
bit compared with a basic lock joint done on a table saw with a regular
blade. The std. one that I think looks like two inverted F's, one going down
the side and nothing showing across the front. Don't know, don't have any F'
s around to check.. You can't get any easier for making a joint that one
bit, one set-up! Is this as strong?

because,

I've got a dresser with some |¾"| front with |3/8"| elsewhere solid drawers
with std. lock at the front, and rabbet and dado at the rear. Both of these
joints rely on a 1/8" x 1/8" tang, besides the obvious gluing surface. If I
found a dozen of them the right size I'd slap glides and paint on them.

If you randomly screwed the 11/16" pine laminate to a bowed board with any
hand pressure you'd eventually end up with several pieces.

Outside the box here in TO solid pine, knotty 1"x10" is 1.09 per foot, about
18% more than cutting down the 12" or 16" solid laminated 11/16" pine
product. I hope you don't think less of me but I don't know if I'll need any
filler or paint, besides the shellac flakes and white front faces anyway.

I still don't know what the tang would be like in plywood, maybe 3/4" Baltic
Birch would be ok. Problem is |¾"| on small drawers..

My max drawer width concern was probably to do with bottom strength.

I just know nothing about what material is avail at a cheap price. I am
actually worried that the 1" x10" nominal =|3/4"| will be warped enough to
actually change my mind. No planar. And what to do about the sides and rear.
They sell ½" knotty pine at 10" widths for about 25% more than the |3/4"|.
It is |1/2"|.

Just called them back.. They plane the 1" nom to get the |½"|. Says he can
plane all or any of it to 5/8", or anything I want. I described a 4 foot x 4
foot by 1-1/2 foot chest of drawers and he said I could buy the ¾" and all
the planing would be about $40.00. So you're paying a bit more than the ½".

THIS IS WHAT I WANT. I'll probably go with flat, solid |5/8 "| for the large
drawers and |½"| for the small. Don't know if I'll splurge on the router bit
yet. I mean you just can't miss! Gonna check on thicknesses it can handle.
Table saw std. mitre set-up is piece of cake. A 1/8" blade and the rest is
up to you!

Is there any difference between a std. through dovetail and a sliding
dovetail? The one that slides together side to side, but won't come apart
front to back when pulled. Half-blind same