Making Drawers

Q 1: what material (MDF, or pine laminated pieces)

2: what thicknesses of material (Its gotta be ½", 5/8", 11/16", or ¾",
nom. or not)

3: what joints for front and rear (dovetail, rabbet and dado, lock or
bit)

4: what material and thickness for the bottom (white(hard)board, plywood
or other)

5: max. Drawer width

My first choice for materials for making drawers is Home Depot. I don't know
what to use. They will be installed up against an exposed stud wall in
basement. All drawers will eventually be behind the middle 4' sliding mirror
door. Sides will be painted or covered with pegboard. Top will be a shelf at
approx. 52" from floor.

All the light bulbs, all the widgets and hardware, all the screws and nails,
etc. It may get heavy in some of these drawers. All will be full. Could be
rags. Large width drawers are for convenience not weight. Absolute exterior
dimensions of the drawers will be approx.:

(3x) 4.5h" x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 4.5h" x 21.2"w x 18.5"d

(9x) 9.0"h x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 9.0"h x 21.2"w x 18.5"d (you could fit 8w x 7d empties inside except
the cases & 1/3" off top)

A case of beer is (1x) 9"h x 10"w x15"d

I am going to use side mounted ½" gap bottom supporting 18" roller slides
(from HD). Appearance is not important, so built with through dovetails at
front, and false door fronts will never be added. I may just drill or cut
pulls into the fronts to maximize depth. Fronts will all be painted white to
match pegboard and wire shelving, and all else orange shellac flakes and
lacquer thinner. No face frames, only edge on ¾" mdf to support glides.
Utility, strength, durability, longevity. Planning same thickness for front,
rear and sides, unless wrong.



Joints: I am willing to choose through dovetails by hand for the front and
spend on a hand dovetail saw and guide
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41718&cat=1,42884. For the
rear join I have been thinking rabbet and dado.

11/16" solid laminated pine ain't bad, but I think I'd prefer to hear that I
can cut a solid dovetail out of ½" or 5/8" nom. mdf by hand for the front,
and use a really fast machined joint, like a rabbet and dado, in the rear.

I understand a lock joint can be weak. I may have 4 gallons of paint in
these drawers on rollers. Is there any other type of router bit that can
create a quick strong joint?

E.g..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,46168,46174

Haven't seen anyone mention rabbet and dado for the front.

Material: I can use that 11/16" solid pine sideways-laminated that comes
either loose or in plastic. Both have suitable surface, and no more
expensive than plywood laminated in the other direction. Great. But will the
laminate come unglued? They did on my top doorjamb (the laminates split
3/32" at end x 3" long, but that was screw-stress related). Are they
biscuited? Are they lasting?

What about mdf? Can you cut a dovetail out of mdf? How does a lock joint
work in mdf? How does a rabbet and dado work in mdf? How is mdf for drawers?

Thickness: Solid pine laminate only comes in 11/16" (actually not sure if
nominal). Should I be complaining it is too thick. Its not a full .750". But
mdf comes in ½", and 5/8" nominal. That seems a better thickness than ¾", or
even 11/16", no?

Bottoms: I know there are lots of thin plywood ( like approx. ¼" or mm):
which is good? What kind of core What about that thin stuff that backs some
furniture. The cheap stuff. (Hard)board? Comes in white, etc?

Width: I can't remember why drawers have a limit to width and I don't know
if my plans exceed this. Am I all right? The 21-3/16"w drawers MAY get split
bottoms front to back for bottom strength, but will they twist or something?
Was that width rule by wall thickness, or twist; I can't say.



I have a 3 h.p. 10" table saw with a 1/8" 36-tooth carbide tipped
combination blade. I do not want to buy a dado or other blade(s) unless
necessary because I may not keep the saw long.

I have a ¼" shank 1-1/4 h.p. 9,000 -27,0000 rpm variable speed router, a
router table with a fence and mitre, and a 26- piece router bit set
including 1/2" dovetail and 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" straight bits. I am
willing to buy more bits if necessary. Like a 3/8" or 5/8" straight, which I
don't know if I need also anyway?

Personally, I'd dado/rabbet the back and hand cut the front dovetails
with the Lee Valley jig you listed. I have the same jig, and cannot say
enough good things about it. (Except I marked the jig sides for "pins" and
"tails" because sometimes i get confused on which side to use!) In any case,
it'll give you good practice hand cutting them if you've never, and it's a
joy to learn. Make sure you have a good set of sharp chisels, and if you
like the fine pins on your DT's get 1/8" and/or 1/4" chisels as well.
I'd suggest poplar for the drawer stock. It works fairly easily, is
durable, and will take paint well. You can use it at the store bought
thickness (3/4") but I prefer to plane it to 5/8".

P.S. buy a small dorm fridge for the case of beer, it's no good kept in a
drawer warm! --dave


"bent" wrote in message
...
Making Drawers

Q 1: what material (MDF, or pine laminated pieces)

2: what thicknesses of material (Its gotta be ½", 5/8", 11/16", or ¾",
nom. or not)

3: what joints for front and rear (dovetail, rabbet and dado, lock or
bit)

4: what material and thickness for the bottom (white(hard)board,
plywood
or other)

5: max. Drawer width

My first choice for materials for making drawers is Home Depot. I don't
know
what to use. They will be installed up against an exposed stud wall in
basement. All drawers will eventually be behind the middle 4' sliding
mirror
door. Sides will be painted or covered with pegboard. Top will be a shelf
at
approx. 52" from floor.

All the light bulbs, all the widgets and hardware, all the screws and
nails,
etc. It may get heavy in some of these drawers. All will be full. Could be
rags. Large width drawers are for convenience not weight. Absolute
exterior
dimensions of the drawers will be approx.:

(3x) 4.5h" x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 4.5h" x 21.2"w x 18.5"d

(9x) 9.0"h x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 9.0"h x 21.2"w x 18.5"d (you could fit 8w x 7d empties inside except
the cases & 1/3" off top)

A case of beer is (1x) 9"h x 10"w x15"d

I am going to use side mounted ½" gap bottom supporting 18" roller slides
(from HD). Appearance is not important, so built with through dovetails at
front, and false door fronts will never be added. I may just drill or cut
pulls into the fronts to maximize depth. Fronts will all be painted white
to
match pegboard and wire shelving, and all else orange shellac flakes and
lacquer thinner. No face frames, only edge on ¾" mdf to support glides.
Utility, strength, durability, longevity. Planning same thickness for
front,
rear and sides, unless wrong.



Joints: I am willing to choose through dovetails by hand for the front and
spend on a hand dovetail saw and guide
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41718&cat=1,42884. For the
rear join I have been thinking rabbet and dado.

11/16" solid laminated pine ain't bad, but I think I'd prefer to hear that
I
can cut a solid dovetail out of ½" or 5/8" nom. mdf by hand for the front,
and use a really fast machined joint, like a rabbet and dado, in the rear.

I understand a lock joint can be weak. I may have 4 gallons of paint in
these drawers on rollers. Is there any other type of router bit that can
create a quick strong joint?

E.g..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,46168,46174

Haven't seen anyone mention rabbet and dado for the front.

Material: I can use that 11/16" solid pine sideways-laminated that comes
either loose or in plastic. Both have suitable surface, and no more
expensive than plywood laminated in the other direction. Great. But will
the
laminate come unglued? They did on my top doorjamb (the laminates split
3/32" at end x 3" long, but that was screw-stress related). Are they
biscuited? Are they lasting?

What about mdf? Can you cut a dovetail out of mdf? How does a lock joint
work in mdf? How does a rabbet and dado work in mdf? How is mdf for
drawers?

Thickness: Solid pine laminate only comes in 11/16" (actually not sure if
nominal). Should I be complaining it is too thick. Its not a full .750".
But
mdf comes in ½", and 5/8" nominal. That seems a better thickness than ¾",
or
even 11/16", no?

Bottoms: I know there are lots of thin plywood ( like approx. ¼" or mm):
which is good? What kind of core What about that thin stuff that backs
some
furniture. The cheap stuff. (Hard)board? Comes in white, etc?

Width: I can't remember why drawers have a limit to width and I don't know
if my plans exceed this. Am I all right? The 21-3/16"w drawers MAY get
split
bottoms front to back for bottom strength, but will they twist or
something?
Was that width rule by wall thickness, or twist; I can't say.



I have a 3 h.p. 10" table saw with a 1/8" 36-tooth carbide tipped
combination blade. I do not want to buy a dado or other blade(s) unless
necessary because I may not keep the saw long.

I have a ¼" shank 1-1/4 h.p. 9,000 -27,0000 rpm variable speed router, a
router table with a fence and mitre, and a 26- piece router bit set
including 1/2" dovetail and 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" straight bits. I am
willing to buy more bits if necessary. Like a 3/8" or 5/8" straight, which
I
don't know if I need also anyway?

Don't have a planer. Won't be sanding. Agree on future skill, but just
want strong joints now. A single 1"x10"x8' piece of pine at home depot is
the same price as an entire 48" x8' 5/8 mdf board. Nearly build a house.
Pine laminate twice that of pine laminate. Hmm, where to get poplar, not at
HD, right? Bet the price would compare with HD pine anyway... Maybe I'll
check outside the box and get back. In the mean time.

so,
is mdf ( dovetail, rabbet & dado, general, thickness) do-able?

OR

is a strong fast-machined joint (e.g. router bit) in either mdf or pine
laminate do-able?

& the other questions about the bottom and width.

"bent" wrote in message

is a strong fast-machined joint (e.g. router bit) in either mdf or pine
laminate do-able?

Do you have a router table? If so, the drawer lock bit would do a good job.

yes, I have a table.

BTW, I mean 3/4" pine laminate is inch for inch only twice as expensive as
5/8" mdf. Its flat, straight and smooth enough for 99/100 shelf pieces.
Even the cheap stuff.

Do you mean the mitre lock, as opposed to the (std?) right angled lock joint
I could make with a table saw. The question I have with these joints is
about their strength. They are recomended for small drawers. I would love
to use them. But should I? Does it depend on material? I'd probably be
succesful in the pine laminate, but not so fast. Maybe I'll demo. Any
advantage of one over the other method of lock joint (straight or mitre).
Why the bit? Need to find rock bottom price for poplar boards. If they are
like pine 1" x 10" x 8' (like at HD) they could be cut into strips for
long bows. Its midnight.

And about MDF:
I just read a post about cabinets & mdf vs. plywood. A lot of talk about
mold.

I had a particle core custom made TV stand that would swell in the high
humidity of summer. It was sitting off the floor on heavy-duty rollers. It
was 3/4" thick PC covered 100% with thick, self -supporting formica or
whatever, not the paper or platic like. From solid sheets. Whatever that
is called. It cost me ~$500.00. I had to spend another $500 on a
dehumidifier because the edge banding (of the same stuff) glued on the
front edges actually showed that the PC was expanding past it thickness
wise. You could see the particles. I would then crank buckets of water out
of the air into the basement shower drain, and it was like new. It was
always in the basement, away from walls. Don't know other levels.

Anyways unless someone answers here first I'm gonna ask in a new post if mdf
will react the same as PC. If it does it isn't pretty believe me!

In fact I invested in a Bionaire electronic temp & humidity meter and can
tell you that I would have to keep the humidity below 60° at all times.
That meant closing the windows, the whole 9. Everyday. It was cat and
mouse. About 60%. Which here in Toronto is several weeks, even possible
months. Great move anyways- the dehumidifier !!

bent wrote:
Making Drawers

Q 1: what material (MDF, or pine laminated pieces)

2: what thicknesses of material (Its gotta be ½", 5/8", 11/16", or ¾",
nom. or not)

3: what joints for front and rear (dovetail, rabbet and dado, lock or
bit)

4: what material and thickness for the bottom (white(hard)board, plywood
or other)

5: max. Drawer width

My first choice for materials for making drawers is Home Depot. I don't know
what to use. They will be installed up against an exposed stud wall in
basement. All drawers will eventually be behind the middle 4' sliding mirror
door. Sides will be painted or covered with pegboard. Top will be a shelf at
approx. 52" from floor.

All the light bulbs, all the widgets and hardware, all the screws and nails,
etc. It may get heavy in some of these drawers. All will be full. Could be
rags. Large width drawers are for convenience not weight. Absolute exterior
dimensions of the drawers will be approx.:

(3x) 4.5h" x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 4.5h" x 21.2"w x 18.5"d

(9x) 9.0"h x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 9.0"h x 21.2"w x 18.5"d (you could fit 8w x 7d empties inside except
the cases & 1/3" off top)

A case of beer is (1x) 9"h x 10"w x15"d

I am going to use side mounted ½" gap bottom supporting 18" roller slides
(from HD). Appearance is not important, so built with through dovetails at
front, and false door fronts will never be added. I may just drill or cut
pulls into the fronts to maximize depth. Fronts will all be painted white to
match pegboard and wire shelving, and all else orange shellac flakes and
lacquer thinner. No face frames, only edge on ¾" mdf to support glides.
Utility, strength, durability, longevity. Planning same thickness for front,
rear and sides, unless wrong.



Joints: I am willing to choose through dovetails by hand for the front and
spend on a hand dovetail saw and guide
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41718&cat=1,42884. For the
rear join I have been thinking rabbet and dado.

11/16" solid laminated pine ain't bad, but I think I'd prefer to hear that I
can cut a solid dovetail out of ½" or 5/8" nom. mdf by hand for the front,
and use a really fast machined joint, like a rabbet and dado, in the rear.

I understand a lock joint can be weak. I may have 4 gallons of paint in
these drawers on rollers. Is there any other type of router bit that can
create a quick strong joint?

E.g..
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,46168,46174

Haven't seen anyone mention rabbet and dado for the front.

Material: I can use that 11/16" solid pine sideways-laminated that comes
either loose or in plastic. Both have suitable surface, and no more
expensive than plywood laminated in the other direction. Great. But will the
laminate come unglued? They did on my top doorjamb (the laminates split
3/32" at end x 3" long, but that was screw-stress related). Are they
biscuited? Are they lasting?

What about mdf? Can you cut a dovetail out of mdf? How does a lock joint
work in mdf? How does a rabbet and dado work in mdf? How is mdf for drawers?

Thickness: Solid pine laminate only comes in 11/16" (actually not sure if
nominal). Should I be complaining it is too thick. Its not a full .750". But
mdf comes in ½", and 5/8" nominal. That seems a better thickness than ¾", or
even 11/16", no?

Bottoms: I know there are lots of thin plywood ( like approx. ¼" or mm):
which is good? What kind of core What about that thin stuff that backs some
furniture. The cheap stuff. (Hard)board? Comes in white, etc?

Width: I can't remember why drawers have a limit to width and I don't know
if my plans exceed this. Am I all right? The 21-3/16"w drawers MAY get split
bottoms front to back for bottom strength, but will they twist or something?
Was that width rule by wall thickness, or twist; I can't say.



I have a 3 h.p. 10" table saw with a 1/8" 36-tooth carbide tipped
combination blade. I do not want to buy a dado or other blade(s) unless
necessary because I may not keep the saw long.

I have a ¼" shank 1-1/4 h.p. 9,000 -27,0000 rpm variable speed router, a
router table with a fence and mitre, and a 26- piece router bit set
including 1/2" dovetail and 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" straight bits. I am
willing to buy more bits if necessary. Like a 3/8" or 5/8" straight, which I
don't know if I need also anyway?




Wow, more information than I want to know. For
simple utility, I would use 1/2" plywood (fir) for
everything except the front which would be 3/4"
Maybe use 3/8" for the bottoms. That's what I
used to make drawers for my tools. Course I
didn't get fancy with roller slides; they just
set on wood (waxed of course).

Dado all the joints except the front: back fits in
the sides, the bottoms fit in the sides the back
and the front and cut rabbits for the sides to fit
in the front. Cut the dadoes one-half the depth
of the piece and 3/8" from the edge. Glue
everything. Your drawer sizes aren't anything
excessive and certainly not as large as most of mine.

You can use solid wood that is 1/2-3/4 for
everything but it won't be as stable as plywood.
I wouldn't use MDF for drawers, it weighs too
much. Also, you might like tempered both sides
hadboard (Masonite) in 1/4" size for drawer bottoms.

Cut everything with a saw and buy a staked dado.
If you are cheap, buy it on sale from Harbor
Freight. You can use the router, but it will end
up a lot more work without a router table.

Good Luck.

I have a router table, so either, or, I think.

You mean use 3/4" ply for the front, 1/2" ply for sides and back. Plywood
being the question, not the 3/4".

You say to rabbet the front 3/4" into the side 1/2". Doesn't that mean too
deep.

Also doesn't that leave a gap at the front between the sides. That is where
a lock joint, or the mitred lock joint comes in. But in ply that kinda
sucks, I think, because that tiny edge is begging to break off, ain't it?

Q 1: what material (MDF, or pine laminated pieces)

Pine is fine... why not solid pine? It's probably cheaper

2: what thicknesses of material (Its gotta be ½", 5/8", 11/16", or ¾",
nom. or not)

1/2 or 5/8 looks nicest, but this is purely utility and you don't have a
planer, so I would go with over the counter 3/4".

3: what joints for front and rear (dovetail, rabbet and dado, lock or
bit)

Dado is quick and adequate for the back. It's not a high-stress joint.
Don't overthink this.

4: what material and thickness for the bottom (white(hard)board,
plywood
or other)

Ply all the way. 1/4 luan is fine for all but the drawers for seriously
heavy items (large quantities of nails, paint cans, *full* case of beer).
3/8 would do there.

Glue the bottom in a dado on all 4 sides.

5: max. Drawer width

Huh? You spec the drawes below.

Joints: I am willing to choose through dovetails by hand for the front and
spend on a hand dovetail saw and guide
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41718&cat=1,42884. For the
rear join I have been thinking rabbet and dado.

If you really want to learn handcut dovetails, buy the LV sliding bevel, a
square and lean to cut to the line. This is the perfect project to practice
on. The siding bevel is a really nice tool. Not trying to be snobby but I
conside the afforementioned guide to be a crutch. I also am not too fond of
one-trick ponies.

11/16" solid laminated pine ain't bad, but I think I'd prefer to hear that
I
can cut a solid dovetail out of ½" or 5/8" nom. mdf by hand for the front,
and use a really fast machined joint, like a rabbet and dado, in the rear.

The dovetail joint was invented to work well with solid wood (which is very
strong in one dimension be very weak in the other). DT's in MDF is a waste
of time. It has very different properties.


I understand a lock joint can be weak. I may have 4 gallons of paint in
these drawers on rollers. Is there any other type of router bit that can
create a quick strong joint?


Dado is fine for the back
Material: I can use that 11/16" solid pine sideways-laminated that comes
..... Are they
biscuited? Are they lasting?

No and yes in that order. Just glue, which is *stronger* than wood.

What about mdf? Can you cut a dovetail out of mdf?

No No NO.

How does a lock joint
work in mdf?

Probably OK to poor

How does a rabbet and dado work in mdf?

Pretty well

How is mdf for drawers?

Too heavy. Considerably less strong. MDF is flat and cheap. It makes pretty
good counter substrate. It has good compressive strength. However, it is
probably twice the weight/vol of pine and had considerably less tensile
strength.
If it cones in contact with water is will turn to oatmeal in short order.
Did I mention that it's ugly? ;-)

Thickness: Solid pine laminate only comes in 11/16" (actually not sure if
nominal). Should I be complaining it is too thick. Its not a full .750".
But
mdf comes in ½", and 5/8" nominal. That seems a better thickness than ¾",
or
even 11/16", no?

No big deal... the only potential gotcha is using trying to use a router bit
to make a dado, but that's a pitfall for all sheet stock. Never assume
nominal thickness.

Bottoms: I know there are lots of thin plywood ( like approx. ¼" or mm):
which is good?

For utility drawer bottoms, any is fine

What kind of core

Core doesn't matter much because stress is mostly on the outer layers.

What about that thin stuff that backs some
furniture. The cheap stuff. (Hard)board? Comes in white, etc?

Ew! Stay away, except for Quick/dirty/cheap applications.

Width: I can't remember why drawers have a limit to width and I don't know
if my plans exceed this. Am I all right? The 21-3/16"w drawers MAY get
split
bottoms front to back for bottom strength, but will they twist or
something?
Was that width rule by wall thickness, or twist; I can't say.

I'm unaware of rules, but IME that size is fine.

I have a 3 h.p. 10" table saw with a 1/8" 36-tooth carbide tipped
combination blade. I do not want to buy a dado or other blade(s) unless
necessary because I may not keep the saw long.

Why, because you want to get out of the sawdust business, or because that
3HP saw is a POS-direct-drive-universal
motor-only-under-start-up-for-an-instant-when-the-15-Amp-110V-breaker-is-abo
ut-to-pop-3HP-saw?

bent wrote:
Making Drawers

Q 1: what material (MDF, or pine laminated pieces)

Between the two, the pine.
___________________

2: what thicknesses of material (Its gotta be ½", 5/8", 11/16",
or ¾", nom. or not)

Fronts 3/4. Sides, any.
________________

3: what joints for front and rear (dovetail, rabbet and dado,
lock or bit)

For fronts I like sliding dovetails...strong, easy to make. In days of
yore I used to use rabbeted sides into front dados pinning same with a
brad angled from the side (glued too).

Rear is rabbet into dado.
_________________

4: what material and thickness for the bottom (white(hard)board,
plywood or other)

I prefer 1/4" ply (grain goes side to side) but hardboard works too,
just not as strong. HD here has crummy 1/4" so I've started using door
skins sometimes. Only 1/8" but works fine for normally loaded drawers.
Cheap too.
________________

5: max. Drawer width

There is no limit AFAIK but practically around 36".
___________________

My first choice for materials for making drawers is Home Depot. I
don't know what to use.

Poplar is much nicer than pine IMO. If HD doesn't have it there are
many online wood suppliers.
______________________

All the light bulbs, all the widgets and hardware, all the screws and
nails, etc. It may get heavy in some of these drawers. All will be
full. Could be rags. Large width drawers are for convenience not
weight. Absolute exterior dimensions of the drawers will be approx.:

(3x) 4.5h" x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 4.5h" x 21.2"w x 18.5"d

(9x) 9.0"h x 13.7"w x 18.5"d

(2x) 9.0"h x 21.2"w x 18.5"d (you could fit 8w x 7d empties inside
except the cases & 1/3" off top)

I wouldn't call those big drawers. Regardless, do yourself a favor and
partition them. Partitions turn drawers from a depository for junk into
something useful.

There are two really easy ways to subdivide drawers...

1. Close to full height partitions either side to side or front to back.
Cut 1/4 inch "V"s into either at intervals of 1 1/4" or so taking care
that they are opposite each other. Make the partitions of 1/4" ply with
the edges beveled to fit the "V"s. Partitions are now easy to
rearrange.

2. Trays. They can either lift out or slide. An easy way to make
supports for sliding trays is to use 3/4" material for the sides and cut
a 1/4" rabbet on the inside tops so that the bottom of the rabbet
supports the tray. Even - maybe especially - your 4.5" drawers would
benefit from a tray maybe 1 - 11 /2 deep for little stuff. Needless to
say, the trays (and the bottom drawer portion) can also be partioned as
in #1.
____________________


Joints: I am willing to choose through dovetails by hand for the
front

I understand a lock joint can be weak. I may have 4 gallons of paint
in these drawers on rollers. Is there any other type of router bit
that can create a quick strong joint?

As I said, sliding dovetails.
________________

Haven't seen anyone mention rabbet and dado for the front.

I did but sliding dovetails are lots better and no harder to make.
___________________

Material: I can use that 11/16" solid pine sideways-laminated that
comes either loose or in plastic. Both have suitable surface, and no
more expensive than plywood laminated in the other direction. Great.
But will the laminate come unglued? They did on my top doorjamb (the
laminates split 3/32" at end x 3" long, but that was screw-stress
related). Are they biscuited? Are they lasting?

What about mdf? Can you cut a dovetail out of mdf? How does a lock
joint work in mdf? How does a rabbet and dado work in mdf? How is mdf
for drawers?

Ever had cheap kitchen cabinets/drawers made of MDF? Place i rented one
time did, they were awful.
________________

Bottoms: I know there are lots of thin plywood ( like approx. ¼" or
mm): which is good? What kind of core What about that thin stuff that
backs some furniture. The cheap stuff. (Hard)board? Comes in white,

White tile board is OK for some things. I often use it in my drawer
trays.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
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I think I'm going back to a lock joint or mitred lock joint for the front.
Only because I am going to use a solid material, solid or laminated. I've
got some Any articles or comments on the use of the mitred lock joint router
bit compared with a basic lock joint done on a table saw with a regular
blade. The std. one that I think looks like two inverted F's, one going down
the side and nothing showing across the front. Don't know, don't have any F'
s around to check.. You can't get any easier for making a joint that one
bit, one set-up! Is this as strong?

because,

I've got a dresser with some |¾"| front with |3/8"| elsewhere solid drawers
with std. lock at the front, and rabbet and dado at the rear. Both of these
joints rely on a 1/8" x 1/8" tang, besides the obvious gluing surface. If I
found a dozen of them the right size I'd slap glides and paint on them.

If you randomly screwed the 11/16" pine laminate to a bowed board with any
hand pressure you'd eventually end up with several pieces.

Outside the box here in TO solid pine, knotty 1"x10" is 1.09 per foot, about
18% more than cutting down the 12" or 16" solid laminated 11/16" pine
product. I hope you don't think less of me but I don't know if I'll need any
filler or paint, besides the shellac flakes and white front faces anyway.

I still don't know what the tang would be like in plywood, maybe 3/4" Baltic
Birch would be ok. Problem is |¾"| on small drawers..

My max drawer width concern was probably to do with bottom strength.

I just know nothing about what material is avail at a cheap price. I am
actually worried that the 1" x10" nominal =|3/4"| will be warped enough to
actually change my mind. No planar. And what to do about the sides and rear.
They sell ½" knotty pine at 10" widths for about 25% more than the |3/4"|.
It is |1/2"|.

Just called them back.. They plane the 1" nom to get the |½"|. Says he can
plane all or any of it to 5/8", or anything I want. I described a 4 foot x 4
foot by 1-1/2 foot chest of drawers and he said I could buy the ¾" and all
the planing would be about $40.00. So you're paying a bit more than the ½".

THIS IS WHAT I WANT. I'll probably go with flat, solid |5/8 "| for the large
drawers and |½"| for the small. Don't know if I'll splurge on the router bit
yet. I mean you just can't miss! Gonna check on thicknesses it can handle.
Table saw std. mitre set-up is piece of cake. A 1/8" blade and the rest is
up to you!

Is there any difference between a std. through dovetail and a sliding
dovetail? The one that slides together side to side, but won't come apart
front to back when pulled. Half-blind same

bent wrote:

Is there any difference between a std. through dovetail and a sliding
dovetail? The one that slides together side to side, but won't come
apart front to back when pulled. Half-blind same

Huh? A sliding dovetail is like a rabbet & dado...long vertical
dovetail socket on the fronts, tails all along the front edge of the
sides. If you try them, make a fit that slides together easily...lots
of friction in a long sliding dovetail.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I have a 1/2" dovetail bit in my (new) set. One of 26. It is 1/2" Dia. at
the very fat end. The actual end. It has a perpendicular cutting depth of
1/2". Nearest the shaft it is about 1/4" Dia.

If you wanted a groove, you get one cut, because you can't adjust the depth
of cut.

Is that what this is for?

So put the groove in the back of the face. Easy way to cover the glides
too. I may even try to even the sides now.

How do I do this? more.

bent wrote:
I have a 1/2" dovetail bit in my (new) set. One of 26. It is 1/2"
Dia. at the very fat end. The actual end. It has a perpendicular
cutting depth of 1/2". Nearest the shaft it is about 1/4" Dia.

If you wanted a groove, you get one cut, because you can't adjust the
depth of cut.

Is that what this is for?

Uhhhh...it's for whatever you want to use it for. Any cut needing that
profile.
___________________

So put the groove in the back of the face.

Yes, assuming that's where you want to attach the drawer sides.
__________________

Easy way to cover the
glides too. I may even try to even the sides now.

I have no idea what you are talking about.
____________________

How do I do this? more.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&l...ng+dovetail&bt
nG=Search

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

I think cutting a dovetail like that is an exception to the light cut rule
of routing.

I'm thinking more about plywood now. Theres so many options of nominal
thicknesses. Birch too, which is a hardwood.

Veneer core. Very hard edges. Gonna see what kind of routing and edges are
ok.

And its flat, flat, flat. For now anyway.

Every type of solid wood I see could be flat, or could be warped. Just
depends on the day.

About that solid glued up pine. In the plastic its |3/4"|. Loose its
|11/16"|. At HD 12" = |12"|. 16" prob is |16"|