On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 12:41:09 -0500, Greg wrote:

Frank Boettcher said:

On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 04:05:29 -0500, Greg wrote:

Blade accompanying this saw is clearly stamped Delta-Made in U.S.A.
Looks just like a 50ATB skip tooth with raker made by Vermont America.

Standard blade supplied for that saw is either a 35-617 10x50 ATB & R
made by Leitz in Germany (you remember, the cheap chinese blade by ---SAR?
your observation) or an equivilent tooth configuration blade Oldham
Signature series made near Ashville, N.C. Which would depend on
timing. Both excellent blades based on what matters. However, to give
you the benefit the doubt someone could have substituted a Vermont
American. ( same guy that ground that table?). Substitutions were
sometimes made on benchtop refurb ( something better not worse) but,
in the past, it was never done on Industrial. However, new
management, who knows. Is it labeled V A or are you just guessing?

Well, to be honest, it looked like a US Saw/Oldham blade to me as
well, but I was going by what you told me in a previous post:

QUOTE
If you are talking about the blade you have pictured in your picture
of accessories, it is very high quality blade manufactured by Leitz
in Germany. you may have also gotten a stamped steel blade mounted on
the unit, and if so probably Vermont American. UL requires the
UNQUOTE

also, in addition to. did that oldham look like a stamped steel blade
to you?



Balance your just crawfishing.

I like the Oldham Signature blades - they are very good.
Unfortunately, no one I've found around here carries them anymore.
And this one is chipped. I hope they replace it with the same one.

One thing I can't quite figure out is why they bothered to put a bend
in the arbor wrench. It really makes it less than useful, as the
easiest approach for me is from directly above. And unless the arbor
is nearly fully-raised, something I never do just to change the blade,
it wedges between the table top and arbor bearing hub and becomes
rather impotent.

Hmm, when I told you why they did it in an earlier post you then
responded by saying you knew why they did it. Wonder which statement
is true. Works fine for me.

I know why they did it - I just can't figure out why they bothered.
Read it sloooowly...
See subsequent discussion and photos.

Manufacturers do not generally supply assembly tools, normally only
tools needed for ongoing adjustment and then only some of the time
depending on how common the tool might be. The supplied wrenches are
for adjusting the insert plane and the miter gage stops if memory
serves.

No biggy - just an observation.

There is an O-Ring around the base of the axle shaft, presumably to
help prevent rattling. I would keep a drop of oil or silicon lube in
there to prevent tearing of the rubber/viton, as they are not
replaceable without a press of some kind.

another inaccurate statement of "fact"
I replaced two flood damaged handles last week with a drift and ball
peen hammer.

Probably explains the motor pivot shaft in the first saw I got. g

I prefer a more eloquent approach, personally. A vise, a press...
A "press of some kind" implies a pressing device such as a vise, a
screw-driven puller, a press, etc.
I don't care for dinged up marks on my hardware - I'm funny like that.
It's a personal thang.

Clarification on the statement. Standard splitters need to be designed
for the thinest kerf blade not the thickest. A thinner splitter will
work with a thicker blade but not vice versa.

Of course, we know thaaat.
But a thin splitter combined with a wide blade is not as effective in
preventing the wood from closing in on the blade.

A hunk of reaction wood could close up on the blade before the
splitter stopped it from doing so - depending somewhat on the distance
between the splitter and the rear of the blade.

Delta includes one .125" blade and one .074" splitter.
Not the most effective combo. I understand they are not going to
include two splitters, and that their solution is to provide one that
sort of works with both. Optimally, the blade and splitter should be
pretty close to the same thickness.

Manufacturers can't come up with a way to avoid leaving a jagged point
at the edge of their extension tables,

Also answered and yes they can. The using public just doesn't want to
pay for it and I wouldn't either.

I understand that, but as I subsequently stated:

But since it's not mentioned in the
manual, you'll have to discover this on your own after you lacerate
your arm, leave a big groove down that sheet of bookmatched plywood,
or have the experience to know better.

Some new, novice purchasers won't know until it happens to them.
Unless You come in the box with the saw or put it in the manual.

Besides, I'm more worried about the .032" variations in the table than
I am trivial stuff like this.

Dude, you need a vacation...
Don't get so excited about it - it's just a saw. ;-)
And it's just a discussion... G


not excited, just correcting a laundry list of opinion,
misconceptions, and inaccurate information with the truth.


Greg G.