Frank Boettcher said:

On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 07:18:37 -0500, Greg wrote:

Blade to Right Miter Slot parallelism was off by .008" over 10".
This will have to be corrected - I prefer this to be spot-on.

Yes you should. you do so by moving the table. Be careful not to lose
the dimension when correcting the alignment. afterward go to 45, full
elevation and verify your clearance. And I'm assuming you have the
motor weight hanging when you checked and no longer have it supported.
If not get that weight on when you adjust and check.

Yes, dear. g Good point for others to note.
The motor is attached and fully weighted. Wouldn't do much good to
set it if weren't - the additional ~60lbs would surely muck things up.
I'm aware of this, having set up saws before - Old, Decrepit Saws.

Blade Wrenches. Usual stuff. Cheap steel flat stock wrenches,

Laser cut, hardened. not cheap,functional, work fine. bend is to give
passing clearance between the two wrenches in the event you slip
release. the arbor nut wrench will not bang the knuckles of the hand
holding the of the arbor shaft wrench and vice,versa. also gives the
heel of the hand holding the arbor shaft wrench some clearance from
the blade, a good thing. They are specific purpose so you will not be
inclined to put them in your tool box and not have them close by when
you need them.

See addendum.

I understand why they did it, my observation is that it's just not a
very effective implementation. The bend is at a spot where it skews
the fit of the wrench on the arbor shaft due to interference with the
arbor bearing hub, unless the arbor is raised almost fully.
Bend the other one slightly - it moves - this one doesn't. JMHO.

Get one of the outboard flange nut combination accessories. They are
delightful.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by this. Who makes such a thing?
I do already have thin open-end Snap-On wrenches that I don't use much
for wrenching on vehicles anymore. At least with the left-tilt, I'm
not constantly fighting against my burned-in perception of which way
the nut tightens. g

Handwheels are heavy, give a smooth feel to the mech. I am not
convinced that they are not imported, but it's possible. The curious
thing is, the included 1/8" wrench doesn't fit the allen head
setscrews. The grub screws are 5/32"... or is that 4mm?

Probably not supplied, can't remember. Smaller allen wrench might be
to fine tune your insert. it is not 4mm and based on your manufacture
date, probably domestic.

What I meant is that a 4mm key fits - perfectly.
See addendum.

could have used a wee bit more pressin', as they rattle a touch now
and then, and move axially 3/8" or so. No biggy.

Hard to find the perfect place. should have an o ring to minimize
rattle. They are, however machined steel that has been plated. you
can press them in further if it is desireable.

O-ring is present. I will press them further eventually. But if it
takes more than 20 tons, I'm out of luck. Minor observation. g

that was needed to barely pass spec 20 years ago, and hasn't put one
iota of though into it since. This applies to ALL manufacturers.

No it doesn't. It indicates that it hasnt been changed not how much
thought had been put into it. it was looked at regularly by at least
one manufacture. Look, the dilemma is that if you are UL/CSA listed
and you compete against those who are not you stay within their
guidlines and offer what is required. You don't add a bunch of cost
over and above your competiitors and price yourself out of the market
still hampered by UL/CSA rules. and possibly still have the user pitch
it into the corner.

I understand - See addendum.

I can't speak about what "thought" all manufactures have put into it
and neither can you, just the output.

Semantics...

Very good after market guards are not hampered by the rules because
they are not sold with the saw. If they were they would not be
approved.

As observed in an earlier of my posts, the UL and/or CSA should
reassess their requirements as well. IMHO.

Later,

Greg G.