*** ADDENDUM ***

My straight man points out that the wrenches are not as described.
The humor wasn't well received either. So here are my corrections:

Missing Spec's:
Arbor Shaft Diameter is .624"- looks to be roll-thread/machined shaft.
My Dado will LOVE this.

Splitter Thickness is .074".
Supplied Blade Kerf is .126"

Missing Accessories Info:

Arbor Blade Clamping Washer is die cut and stamp formed steel.
I'm shocked... g

Blade accompanying this saw is clearly stamped Delta-Made in U.S.A.
Looks just like a 50ATB skip tooth with raker made by Vermont America.

Unfortunately, the installer left the blade protruding above the table
surface slightly, and the 300+ mile ride from TN,TX, MS or wherever
caused one carbide tooth to sliver, and one extension wing to have an
eroded pit in it's surface. (The tables are shipped on top of saw,
face down.) I feel Delta should replace this.

No, I'm not going to run it because the fractured carbide could come
flying outta there - it's compromised. Bummer.
(And No, I haven't called, I foresee no hassles in getting it
replaced, etc. It's just FYI.)

Additional Corrections:

Greg G. said:

Blade Wrenches. Usual stuff. Cheap steel flat stock wrenches,
probably die cut, and soft. One thing I can't quite figure out is why
they bothered to put a bend in the arbor wrench. It really makes it
useless, as the cleanest approach is from directly above. Go figure.
Could be something different about the left-tilt vs. right-tilt model,
could be because I'm a southpaw, _could be_ they bought a box of them
on eBay. I'll hammer it out flat later - or add it to the collection
of _other_ useless wrenches and drivers.

Replace Paragraph:

Blade Wrenches. Stuff. Lovingly crafted from flat steel stock by the
finest of Chen artisans. The arbor nut wrench is water-jet or laser
cut (although I've never personally seen a laser slice up 1/8" steel).
The arbor shaft wrench still appears to be die cut - down to the grain
smear from the pattern/die.
So it's 50/50.

I beat on them _and_ a soft steel wrench with a hammer and punch.
Not purely scientific, but they do appear to be somewhat hardened.
Not as glassy, hard, or brittle as a case-hardened bit, however.
Home team - 0

One thing I can't quite figure out is why they bothered to put a bend
in the arbor wrench. It really makes it less than useful, as the
easiest approach for me is from directly above. And unless the arbor
is nearly fully-raised, something I never do just to change the blade,
it wedges between the table top and arbor bearing hub and becomes
rather impotent.

If your going to bend one, bend the one that does the turning - ever
so slghtly. My stationary hand holding the arbor isn't as likely to
be cut by the blade as the one actually removing the arbor nut.

Could be something different about the left-tilt vs. right-tilt model,
could be because I'm a southpaw, could be they bought a box of them
on eBay. I'll hammer it out flat later - or add it to the collection
of _other_ annoying wrenches and drivers.

No wait, can't do that. Supplied arbor wrench is consistently .125"
in thickness. Clearance for the arbor shaft wrench allows nothing
much thicker than .128 to be inserted. So, I guess I'll use it until
I grind down something else.

Both supplied wrenches DO conform to the (Delta) standard of being
different tapers, so you can tell which wrench is which without
looking at them. Especially useful for you non-sighted woodworkers.

Handwheels are heavy, give a smooth feel to the mech. I am not
convinced that they are not imported, but it's possible. The curious
thing is, the included 1/8" wrench doesn't fit the allen head
setscrews. The grub screws are 5/32"... or is that 4mm?
They are not the finely machined handwheels that came on the Navy's
latest flying toy, but are cast-iron and dripped in black gloss paint.
The handgrips are bare steel, probably zinc but possibly nickel
plated. They and their axles are press fitted into the wheel. Mine
could have used a wee bit more pressin', as they rattle a touch now
and then, and move axially 3/8" or so. No biggy.

Change Relevant Text:

.... yadda... yadda...
They look just like the Chinese cast-iron blanks I bought last year,
right down to the funny bosses. They were probably drilled and bored
in the U.S., and they do have USS threads for the grub screw.

A 5/32" hex allen wrench fits the grub screws, but 4mm fits perfectly
as well. Neither of the 2 allen wrenches which are included fit the
wheel setscrews, so have one on hand before beginning assembly.
.... yadda... yadda...
Mine could have used a wee bit more pressin', so after I get a little
more road time into this thing, I'll throw 'em on the 20 ton hydraulic
press parked over in the corner and snug 'em up. Haven't had much use
for that old press lately - maybe it'll get SWMBO off my case about
selling it.

There is an O-Ring around the base of the axle shaft, presumably to
help prevent rattling. I would keep a drop of oil or silicon lube in
there to prevent tearing of the rubber/viton, as they are not
replaceable without a press of some kind.

The Blade Guard - what can be said about this pinnacle of engineering
prowess and UL/CSA approval that I didn't cover in an earlier post.
Simply meeting some UL/CSA standard as to the existence of a blade
guard doesn't equate into a useable OR well designed feature. What it
DOES indicate is that MFG's designed some minimal, crappy contraption
that was needed to barely pass spec 20 years ago, and hasn't put one
iota of though into it since. This applies to ALL manufacturers.

Change Relevant Text:

.... yadda... yadda...
hasn't put one iota of serious thought into it since. Or perhaps what
thought was dedicated towards the improvement of the guards was shot
down by CEO's and bean counters as being trivial to their position in
the marketplace. This applies to ALL manufacturers who sell in the
U.S., except Powermatic. Additionally, most European machines contain
riving blades that move with the saw blade and provide a much safer
alternative which leaves no gap betwixt the blade and riving knife.

Additionally, the exact thickness of the splitter is .074", and yet
the kerf of a standard blade, say my WWII is .125". Included blade
leaves a kerf of .126". Hmmmm....
(I plan to build a sort of quick release splitter, tapering to .120"
thick, so it's not that relevant to me, anyhow.)

The wings don't have an entry bevel cut on them like the saw table.
You would think that a cross-model generic design would match all the
tables - including the bevel - especially the top end, but not yet.
So there is a point that hangs over the front edge of the saw table.

Change Relevant Text:

Manufacturers can't come up with a way to avoid leaving a jagged point
at the edge of their extension tables, and require you to file this
down after final assembly. But since it's not mentioned in the
manual, you'll have to discover this on your own after you lacerate
your arm, leave a big groove down that sheet of bookmatched plywood,
or have the experience to know better.


Part III at a theater near you - just in time for Christmas Season.



Greg G.