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JWho
 
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Default How Hard is Brass CDA 360?? and Related Questions


"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
"JWho" wrote in message
news:ia7cf.531822$_o.340017@attbi_s71...

I first thought stainless steel would be good because of (in my mind)
corrosion prevention. A buddy in Australia had his done at a machine

shop
and the machinist used brass. That is why I thought to use brass. When

you
say you would use stainless stell, do you mean a solid round rod or a

tube
or what?


He used brass because it's easy to machine. g As for stainless rod or
tube, whatever the shop has on hand. I said 303 grade because it's easy to
machine. Any stainless will be good for this job.


I will study up on the stainless steel options.



You lost me on the reamer part.


Sorry. If you're not into machining, forget it. It's not the only way to

do
the job.


Whew, thanks. My head is already hurting from trying to figure it out. :-)




If it matters, I really want it to be a
full circle.


It only matters because it means you have to have a full circle

machined --
unless you got lucky and somebody in the world happened to make a tube of
exactly the dimensions you need.


I WISHED! :-)





I know what you mean on the wodden dowel in a drill. I
thought I was going to have to buy a drill press to do this, so that

would
be OK. I was hoping that and a drill press vice would help. I know

what
you mean on those 3-way rectangular stone hone things. That's a good

idea!

I was going to do a few to practice and see what works best.


That's a very good idea. Since you know the dimensions you want to a value
expressed in thousandths of an inch, I assume you have the instruments to
measure what you're getting.


I have a dial caliper, or something like that. It measures on the inside,
and it may not be very accurate. I think if I get someone to make something
to such and such dimension, their tools may be accurate and it would be a
little different than if I tried to make it myself.





Or, I'd get a bushing turned in a local machine shop by a guy who owns

a
motorcycle, who works cheap. g If it turns out to be a good press

fit,
you're done. If it's tight, sand the outside VERY carefully with #300

or
so
wet-dry sandpaper until it fits. If it's loose, fit it in there with

some
Loctite or epoxy.

I'm sure you'll get other suggestions. There's a simple solution

somewhere.
Hang in there.

--
Ed Huntress


I thought a thin walled bushing would distort if I tried to press it in.
Wouldn't it distort? That's why I was thinking to press in a whole

piece,
then drill/sand/cut/curse it into shape.


It will distort, but it generally will distort to the shape of the hole

it's
being pressed into. If the bore in the aluminum is a good cylinder, your
bushing should be a good cylinder, even if it isn't a good one when you
start to press it in.

As for thin-wall, that's all relative. A piece of brass tube with
30-thousandths walls ain't gonna be the most rigid thing around. If you

want
a cylindrical bore, you need a cylindrical hole to push it into.


Thanks.


You're welcome, but I don't know how much we're helping. To do the job you
want to do requires a lathe or a pre-made piece of tubing in the perfect
dimensions you want. Anything you do by hand is going to be a compromise.

If you check out the price of having simple cylinders turned in a machine
shop, of stainless or brass, you may find that it's less than the trouble
you'll go through trying to do it on your own. Try a small machine shop.
Anybody who can run a lathe can do this job.

--
Ed Huntress



Doing it by hand won't be the best way, but I want to try it first. If I
try a couple and can't do it, then I can move on to paying someone to do it.
I just prefer to do it myself.

Thanks.