SNIP

Aha! Now I see it. You've got a spacer bushing. It needs to be rigid,
which
says "metal." The fact that shims wore out before suggests that the
pounding
that results from normal use pounded the shims, and/or the shaft or the
supporting piece, a little bit loose. Aluminum foil has no chance of
surviving.

Hi. Sorry for additional confusion. Maybe this will help. Neither the
original piece or the different piece I want to use came stock with a
bushing. The original piece had a steel shaft that went in the aluminum
hole. The different piece had an aluminum shaft that went in an aluminum
hole. The aluminum shaft, perhaps to be stronger due to it being aluminum
instead of steel, has a larger OD than the steel shaft. Therefore the
different piece has a larger hole. The difference in the pieces' holes is
around .060". When the different piece with the .984" hole is put on the
steel shaft (which went with the original piece that had the .924" ID hole),
there is a gap btween the steel shaft and the different piece's hole. I am
wanting to install something permanent to take up the gap.

I have only tried aluminum foil as a test fit, not riding with it, so I can
not attest to its durability. I'd rather have something more sturdy myself.
By the way, a washer goes on top of the piece around the shaft, then a nut
with 25mm ID threads onto the OD of the steel shaft. It sets on an even
bigger nut underneath. I think the top nut is around 50 foot-pounds, so it
is not going to fall off. I just don't want it to rattle any, and I want
something durabel and something I don't have to replace when I disassemble
it for any maintenance.




Hokay. Given a shop full of tools, I'd turn the piece out of 303 stainless
for a light press fit, with the bore cut on the lathe to a fairly fine
finish. Lacking the shop, I'd make it from a strip of brass, as I
described,
and make a D-bit reamer to ream the bore to size (you *can* make the
cylinder-made-from-strip fit with a press fit, if you file the ends *very*
carefully). Lacking knowledge of how to do that (and a lathe on which to
make the D-bit g!), I'd fit the strip-based-cylinder in with Loctite,
and
then hone it with a strip of emery cloth fitted into a cross-slit in a
wooden dowel, driven by a hand-held electric drill. This could come out a
bit sloppy if you don't have some machinist's finesse. If you have a drill
press and some brake-cylinder hones, use them instead.

I first thought stainless steel would be good because of (in my mind)
corrosion prevention. A buddy in Australia had his done at a machine shop
and the machinist used brass. That is why I thought to use brass. When you
say you would use stainless stell, do you mean a solid round rod or a tube
or what?

You lost me on the reamer part. If it matters, I really want it to be a
full circle. I know what you mean on the wodden dowel in a drill. I
thought I was going to have to buy a drill press to do this, so that would
be OK. I was hoping that and a drill press vice would help. I know what
you mean on those 3-way rectangular stone hone things. That's a good idea!

I was going to do a few to practice and see what works best.




Or, I'd get a bushing turned in a local machine shop by a guy who owns a
motorcycle, who works cheap. g If it turns out to be a good press fit,
you're done. If it's tight, sand the outside VERY carefully with #300 or
so
wet-dry sandpaper until it fits. If it's loose, fit it in there with some
Loctite or epoxy.

I'm sure you'll get other suggestions. There's a simple solution
somewhere.
Hang in there.

--
Ed Huntress

I thought a thin walled bushing would distort if I tried to press it in.
Wouldn't it distort? That's why I was thinking to press in a whole piece,
then drill/sand/cut/curse it into shape.

Thanks.