"JWho" wrote in message
news:EZ5cf.524714$x96.174362@attbi_s72...
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
"JWho" wrote in message
news
15cf.531679$_o.86992@attbi_s71...
I have used sheet metal (aluminum foil folded over about 7 times), but
that
is not the best way to do it. I want a piece to fit in the aluminum
piece,
as the aluminum piece is sometimes taken off its assembly, and when
that
happens, a new shim stock/strip piece would have to be fabricated.
I have a deburring tool, if that is similar??
No. Don't worry about the bearing scraper, based on what you've told us
since.
I have never used it yet,
though. I don't see how the deburring tool would help. Speaking of
bearing
scraper, doo you know of a picture of one, somewhere?
Maybe. It's a triagular bearing scraper. One should be on the Web,
somewhere.
In any case, this doesn't sound like a job that requires a precision
bushing. Would you tell us some more about the shaft that runs in
it,
and
the speeds, lubrication, etc.? Anodized aluminum would make a
strange
shaft
to run in a brass bushing, to people who are used to metalworking
machinery.
BTW, in principle, this method I suggest is similar to that used in
early
"thinwall" crankshaft bearings, used in racing engines.
--
Ed Huntress
Again, sorry to cause any confusion, as the pieces just set there. I
may
not be doing a good enough job of explaining it.
Were the thin pieces of metal used to take up slack caused by the
bearings
"wallering out" the bearing areas?? Someone feel free to tell me the
technical term for "wallered out". "Cause to go out of round" or
something
like that, I guess.
Something like that. g
I have a motorcycle hub that the previous owner rode
with a damaged bearing and "caused to go out of round" the bearing
holding
area. Of course, that is another thread. SIGH.
Thanks.
It's not easy to figure out what's going on here. If the shaft doesn't
rotate, why bother with making a bearing? It sounds like all you have to
do
is to fill the space. A flat strip of something, bent into a circle as I
described, ought to do it -- unless there's more to it. Maybe a piece of
plastic coffee-can lid, cut into a rectangle with scissors. g
Can you tell us what the parts are for? We need to get an idea of the
forces
involved (if any), and the accuracy required.
--
Ed Huntress
It is for a motocycle tripleclamp, which is a steering part on the front.
It holds on the front suspension units.
In an effort to simplify, I will just show some pictures from the internet
instead of taking some and posting them and linking to them.
Here's an example of the main piece in question:
http://www.rswracing.com/images/cr25...le%20clamp.jpg
Between the two large holes, there is a hole going up and down like the
two
large holes (not the real little one on the front). When it is all
mounted
together, it looks something like this:
http://www.husaberg.se/EN/images/6426.jpg
You can see where the shaft comes through the previously mentioned hole.
I
am wanting to put on a different model top piece. This different top
piece
has a different dimension hole than the original piece. I am wanting to
take up the slack with something that will remain a permanent part of the
different top piece. The problem with using some flat sheet metal is that
it will need to be replaced when the upper piece is removed. I need a
permanent solution.
Hopefully, the pictures will better explain what I am hoping to achieve.
My
idea was just the best I could come up with so far. If anyone has a
better
way to do it with hand tools and a shop press and/or drill press, please
let
me know.
Thanks.
Aha! Now I see it. You've got a spacer bushing. It needs to be rigid, which
says "metal." The fact that shims wore out before suggests that the pounding
that results from normal use pounded the shims, and/or the shaft or the
supporting piece, a little bit loose. Aluminum foil has no chance of
surviving.
Hokay. Given a shop full of tools, I'd turn the piece out of 303 stainless
for a light press fit, with the bore cut on the lathe to a fairly fine
finish. Lacking the shop, I'd make it from a strip of brass, as I described,
and make a D-bit reamer to ream the bore to size (you *can* make the
cylinder-made-from-strip fit with a press fit, if you file the ends *very*
carefully). Lacking knowledge of how to do that (and a lathe on which to
make the D-bit g!), I'd fit the strip-based-cylinder in with Loctite, and
then hone it with a strip of emery cloth fitted into a cross-slit in a
wooden dowel, driven by a hand-held electric drill. This could come out a
bit sloppy if you don't have some machinist's finesse. If you have a drill
press and some brake-cylinder hones, use them instead.
Or, I'd get a bushing turned in a local machine shop by a guy who owns a
motorcycle, who works cheap. g If it turns out to be a good press fit,
you're done. If it's tight, sand the outside VERY carefully with #300 or so
wet-dry sandpaper until it fits. If it's loose, fit it in there with some
Loctite or epoxy.
I'm sure you'll get other suggestions. There's a simple solution somewhere.
Hang in there.
--
Ed Huntress