One more point. Lead free solder melts at a higher temp but since you will
not be drinking water off a vent, it should be OK to use lead/tin solder


"PipeDown" wrote in message
ink.net...
A 100W soldering iron with a very large tip. These are also used to melt
lead caning for stained glass windows. You could also probably do it with
a lot of other smaller irons but that is a big chunk of copper to get hot
in a small area. It may be called a "Hobby soldering iron" as opposed to
one for electronic use.

The flux depends somewhat on the solder. Rolls of solder for electrical
come with flux inside but lead free solder for plumbing has its own paste
flux on the same shelf at the store. In general you can always use resin
flux (RMA) but it is alcohol based and harder to clean up. There is also
water based fluxes that are easy to clean and will discolor the copper
less (not acidic).

Copper is soft enough to bend over the edge of a counter but for really
clean creases and sharp angles, you will also need a sheetmetal brake.
Much can be done to flatten out mistakes with the right shaped hammers as
well (broad flat face and/or a ball peen hammer).

Now if you wanted to make that out of steel you would do best with a spot
welder since an arc welder would punch through thin sheet metal. An
expert might be able to pull it off with a MIG.




"Bob" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message
ups.com...
Would one have to use a flux ? Also, What is the best kind
of
reasonably priced torch for this work? Thanks

You would use flux. You might want an iron rather than a
torch.

Bob