So, I can just glue another connector on there? Is there no physical
connection? How does the signal get transferred from the connector
into the tuner? If there is a web page that describes this, that
would be fine.

Thanks!

fybar


I see this all the time. It's easy to fix using another connector, or
the original connector if you still have it. It's not hard, but you
need to be skilled at soldering. You WILL ruin the tuner if you're
using a $10 radio shack soldering iron and radio shack solder. It
takes a powerful temperature controlled soldering iron and good
quality solder to solder the outside of the connector to the tuner
case. If this connection is poor, the connector will be ripped off
again by even the slightest tug. The center pin is easier, but if the
iron is too hot you can easily damage the board inside the tuner. Any
clumsy soldering can damage the many surface mount components inside
the tuner. Andy Cuffe


James Sweet wrote:
I've had success using a Weller 140W soldering gun for the outside of
the connector, but if it fits tightly you can jam it in there and then
epoxy around the inside to hold it. Any iron will work for soldering the
center conductor. I've also used panel mount connectors with a threaded
nut that holds them in place.


The outside needs to be a good connection so if you glue it, you will
need to also solder it at a minimum of three equally spaced places round
the circumference. Epoxy cannot take soldering temperatures so this may
be more difficult than just sweating it back in place with a soldering
iron.

I get good results with a Weller 50W iron with a fat 800 deg F bit in
for the outside. It is ESSENTIAL to work with both covers off the tuner
and the connector you are replacing uppermost if you want a nice uniform
fillet that doesn't have any blobs to foul on the case with no solder
dropped inside. Getting the covers off can be a royal PITA if they are
soldered in place and you dont have a desolder station. This usually
involves taking the tuner off the main board for access. Ones I've
tried to do in situ are invariably a worse PITA than taking the tuner out.

If I haven't got a decent 50W or higher iron handy, I've had good
results tinning the edge of the broken off connector, blobbing enough
extra solder round it to allow for a fillet to form then reheating it
with a pencil flame micro butane torch.

The centre pin will probably need a short length of tinned wire to
reconstruct its connection to the board and a delicate touch with a
small iron.

I haven't seen any modern tuner I can fit a panel mount connector to
without crowding the coils etc. inside it. Panel mount connectors only
get used for isolated chassis sets that have an internal cable from the
original connector to the tuner. Thankfully, the need for multiple AV
connectors nearly removed live chassis sets from the market more than a
decade ago so I no longer have to stock isolated sockets.

We usually charge around £40 for this job, but if there is good accesss,
you haven't lost the connector or bust it too badly and the TV is small
enough to put face down on a cloth to work on, we have been known to go
as low as £30. If you hand me a loose tuner, with 'pop-off' covers, with
the connector and you haven't made a mess of it, you can usually talk me
into doing it for £15.
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
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