What's the proper way to deal with a hump in the edge of a board you
are jointing.

One that lifts the front off, then when you transfer to the infeed
side, you lift the tail off the table.

I've tried starting the board a bit over the knives, but normally
resort to my hand planes anyways.

Normally I'm pretty quick with a jointer plane now and always check the
edge with a starrett square to make sure. I shoot for no light, and no
visiable seam.

I learned the hard way when I hand planed my son's bed that .004 was
very noticeable.

Alan

arw01 (in ) said:

| What's the proper way to deal with a hump in the edge of a board you
| are jointing.

Joint the other (parallel) edge first. Take the board to the table saw
and dispose of the hump. Then go back to your jointer and take a very
light cleanup pass if needed.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

On 3 Dec 2005 16:53:06 -0800, "arw01"
wrote:

What's the proper way to deal with a hump in the edge of a board you
are jointing.

One that lifts the front off, then when you transfer to the infeed
side, you lift the tail off the table.

If the hump is so that the piece rocks when on a flat surface, start
with the piece barely on the out feed table and run to the middle of
the piece. Then turn the piece around and do the same thing and run
back to the cut you just made. Take a small amount at a time to avoid
tear out, as one way will be against the grain. Repeat as neccessary.
Once the piece is as straight as possible make a final full pass with
the grain.

Mike O.

Now wouldn't that make the hump worse, since you starting with it on
the outfeed, going to the middle, stoping, and flipping, and doing the
same thing again?

Would make more sense to push the far end down so the board does not
touch the knives, go about 1/2 way, then flip and repeat. I would
expect this to knock the hump off.

I've not tried the flip with a hump.

Alan

On 3 Dec 2005 18:56:31 -0800, "arw01"
wrote:

Now wouldn't that make the hump worse, since you starting with it on
the outfeed, going to the middle, stoping, and flipping, and doing the
same thing again?

Let's makse sure we're talking about the same crooked board. If you
stand it on edge on a flat surface, does the board rock or does it
touch at each end?
If the board rocks, the method I described will work to make it
straight.

If the board is crooked the other way, then you start in the middle of
the piece (or the high part of the hump) run one end. Turn the piece
end for end, start again from the middle, and run the opposite end
same edge.


Mike O.

start in the middle

Alan,
I think you've gotten good advice so far, but what they haven't
mentioned is weight transfer as you move the board across the jointer
knives. Start the cut with downward pressure on the trailing end of
the board. This will rock the leading end up so that it doesn't touch
the knife until almost the middle of the board. Then, as you slide the
board across the knives, when the knives have been cutting wood for a
few inches, shift the pressure to the leading end of the board so that
the trailing end is lifted up. That way, you only cut the middle hump.
You should find that the board contacts the cutters for more of its
length with each pass. When you're cutting wood along the entire
length of the board, your edge should be straight. If not, your
jointer is out of adjustment or the board is too long for your jointer.


Having said all that, I find it easier to work the other edge - the
concave one. Run that edge over the jointer until it's straight. Then
remove the offending hump with a table saw as was mentioned in another
post. Or, If the board is not too wide, turn it on edge with the good
edge down and run it through your planer.

DonkeyHody
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him." - Thomas
Carlyle

wrote in message
oups.com...
start in the middle


I though I was the only one thinking that. LOL