[Housemartin]

I have to join some extra wide work top at approx 90 deg.
As my worktop jig is not long enough, I was considering just butt
joining and there is no bullnose profile, however there will still be
a small shamfer on the edge of the worktop that I need to accomodate.
Any suggestions on this?

[Nick]

"Housemartin" wrote in message
...
I have to join some extra wide work top at approx 90 deg.
As my worktop jig is not long enough, I was considering just butt
joining and there is no bullnose profile, however there will still be
a small shamfer on the edge of the worktop that I need to accomodate.
Any suggestions on this?

If I were doing this I would make a template from which the exact angle of
the joint could be measured. Approx 90 deg is not in my book.
Mark the timber from angles calculated from the template. Cut timber and
plane the edges until the fit is good and satisfactory.
A butt joint is unlikely to be satisfactory especially when trying to join
end grain (presuming this is wood).
Some options:
1) rout the two end grains and use a fillet. Easy, invisible and strong.
2) use dowels. Invisible but can be tricky. Not strong.
3) use butterfly joints or keys of a contrasting timber (ash,beech, hornbeam
etc). Very strong. Requires manual dexterity but the effect can be stunning.
Needs to be done on both surfaces of solid timber.
http://greensawn.com/artwork/420498.html

http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?commentID=46

The chamfer can be fashioned by marking it out and removing most of the
timber with a router or bullnose plane. Finishing with a good sharp chisel
and various grades of abrasive paper, by hand, on a sanding block
HTH
Nick.

[dennis@home]

"Nick" wrote in message
...

"Housemartin" wrote in message
...
I have to join some extra wide work top at approx 90 deg.
As my worktop jig is not long enough, I was considering just butt
joining and there is no bullnose profile, however there will still be
a small shamfer on the edge of the worktop that I need to accomodate.
Any suggestions on this?

If I were doing this I would make a template from which the exact angle of
the joint could be measured. Approx 90 deg is not in my book.
Mark the timber from angles calculated from the template. Cut timber and
plane the edges until the fit is good and satisfactory.
A butt joint is unlikely to be satisfactory especially when trying to join
end grain (presuming this is wood).
Some options:
1) rout the two end grains and use a fillet. Easy, invisible and strong.
2) use dowels. Invisible but can be tricky. Not strong.
3) use butterfly joints or keys of a contrasting timber (ash,beech,
hornbeam etc). Very strong. Requires manual dexterity but the effect can
be stunning. Needs to be done on both surfaces of solid timber.

If you accept rounded corners you can make a jig to cut similar joints with
a router.

I think I will call them figure of eight joints. ;-)

[Andy Dingley]

On 5 Feb, 22:09, Housemartin wrote:
I have to join some extra wide work top at approx 90 deg.

What do you mean by "oak"? If it's real timber, then remember to
allow for expansion & contraction with moisture, which can be sizable
across the grain. It sounds like you're building a cross-grain joint
here, so that's potentially 1/2", maybe even 1" you're looking at.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 5 Feb, 22:09, Housemartin wrote:
I have to join some extra wide work top at approx 90 deg.

What do you mean by "oak"? If it's real timber, then remember to
allow for expansion & contraction with moisture, which can be sizable
across the grain. It sounds like you're building a cross-grain joint
here, so that's potentially 1/2", maybe even 1" you're looking at.
Tosh.

At most .05% on well seasoned wood. To get 1/2" would require over 8 ft
of top and total soaking.

Ive done it here simply by running a router into one top to make it
perfectly square and slightly inset. Same on end of other piece and and
hand rounding thee other pice to match.

I clamped it underneath with battens and used PU glue on the joints. Its
been fine for 8 years.