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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Unscrewing rusted pipe fitting
Ignoramus21494 wrote:
I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i I'll bet it comes right out with a pipe wrench and the pb blaster. |
#2
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Kroil and heat-cool cycles and it will turn out by hand.
"Ignoramus21494" wrote in message ... I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i |
#3
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I'd suggest soaking overnight in penetrating oil then running the
generator a bit to warm the head and then apply some ice to the pipe to hopefully shrink it a bit and break loose any rust remaining. Pete C. Ignoramus21494 wrote: On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 09:01:15 -0500, dlu wrote: Ignoramus21494 wrote: I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i I'll bet it comes right out with a pipe wrench and the pb blaster. Thanks. I will give it a shot tonight. It will be a final generator test day today, as I will hopefully receive the solenoid and new mounts. I am also building a super cushioned moving platform for it, pictures to be posted soon. i |
#4
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Ignoramus21494 wrote:
I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i Heat wrench. - GWE |
#5
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Fire is your friend. Heat it nearly to glowing, the corrosion will
insulate the manifold from excessive heat, just don't burn your shop. When it cools a bit you should be able to remove it. Ignoramus21494 wrote: I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i |
#6
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Tom Gardner wrote:
Kroil and heat-cool cycles and it will turn out by hand. "Ignoramus21494" wrote in message ... I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i Holding a back up block of steel against one side of the fitting and whacking the other side with a BFH is supposed to help the Kroil work its way in. I've never proved conclusively that it does, but pounding it (while I'm thinking about my ex) sure helps me loosen up. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public schools" |
#7
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On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 10:58:06 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Tom Gardner wrote: Kroil and heat-cool cycles and it will turn out by hand. "Ignoramus21494" wrote in message ... I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i Holding a back up block of steel against one side of the fitting and whacking the other side with a BFH is supposed to help the Kroil work its way in. I've never proved conclusively that it does, but pounding it (while I'm thinking about my ex) sure helps me loosen up. Jeff If that manifold is cast-iron I'd be hesitant to do any pounding. Mike Patterson Please remove the spamtrap to email me. "I always wanted to be somebody...I should have been more specific..." - Lily Tomlin |
#8
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Mike Patterson wrote:
On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 10:58:06 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Tom Gardner wrote: Kroil and heat-cool cycles and it will turn out by hand. "Ignoramus21494" wrote in message ... I have a generator to which some genius attached a 1 1/4" NPT non-galvanized elbow, on the exhaust manifold. This elbow is now rusted and is firmly stuck. I doubt that never-seez or some such was used. http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/onan/Diesel/home/exhaust/ I wonder how to unstick it in the safest way. I am thinking to use PB Blaster to loosen threads a bit, then I would attach a 12 inch "pipe nipple", and use that as a lever. What I am concerned is that such a heavy torque from that levering action could damage the manifold attachment or engine. Any thoughts? i Holding a back up block of steel against one side of the fitting and whacking the other side with a BFH is supposed to help the Kroil work its way in. I've never proved conclusively that it does, but pounding it (while I'm thinking about my ex) sure helps me loosen up. Jeff If that manifold is cast-iron I'd be hesitant to do any pounding. Mike Patterson Please remove the spamtrap to email me. "I always wanted to be somebody...I should have been more specific..." - Lily Tomlin screw a four foot or so length of pipe into the elbow and lean on it. The manifold is cast iron. The elbow should move relatively easily. Ken. -- http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com |
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