Ok time to unveil my new plane idea.
Now before you comment there will be a couple of changes once I get the parts.
First the mortise and bolt will be different. There will be a ¾" mortise with a
¾" washer with a ½" by ¼" slot in it. So that will neaten things up a bit. Plus
I am debating and will go by feedback should I go with slotted or go to a socket
head? I think I will stick with stainless as brass is so limited on the bolt
sizes.
One thing I goofed a bit on these first planes is I underestimated how much the
mouth would open up with a jointed the sole. The mouth would not close enough on
some planes so I had to make a new mouthblock. On all future planes the block
will be the same piece of wood as the sole. With a smaller gap in the sole.
This design allows me to use the iron full width without the corners knocked
off. Plus it lets me make all the planes the same width so wedges will be easier
to fit. Before I had to depend on the thickness of the wood for the thickness of
the main body.
No I can shorten the coffins to around 7.5" and still have the same amount of
hand space on top. I did not have time to re flatten the sole after I put the
finish on and get home before 8 so the soles are a bit dirty looking.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane10.jpg
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane11.jpg
Also on the hole in the wedge cool or should it go? I seem to be wedge
challenged and I have not thought of anything new to do with them.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...planepics8.JPG





--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight wrote:

Also on the hole in the wedge cool or should it go? I seem to be wedge
challenged and I have not thought of anything new to do with them.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...planepics8.JPG



Why do anything new, unless it is functional or more productive for you?
Looks like this will be more effort and I can't think of any possible
increase in functionality.

Nice plane, BTW!

LD

Why do anything new, unless it is functional or more productive for you?
Looks like this will be more effort and I can't think of any possible
increase in functionality.

I love doing new things (G) but after I did it I found it has several benefits
to me too. it makes the planes more uniform in width and height. before all the
wedges had to be fitted for width and the mouth blocks as it was hard to get the
1 7/8" width I wanted.then there is the time to fit and sand and adjust the
mouth block . then when tuning the plane I had to turn on my edge sander to
knock the excess mouth block off before I could joint the plane. now I skip that
and I may be able to skip the third jointing too and go right to lapping. plus
the time to adjust the mouth opening.
Now I can make any plane to fit any iron without having to have someone make a
mouth block or me make one the right size.
so it gives me a benefit and the user gets a better plane too I think. one
without that ugly mouth block and one that is easier to adjust.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight wrote:



Why do anything new, unless it is functional or more productive for
you? Looks like this will be more effort and I can't think of any
possible increase in functionality.

I love doing new things (G) but after I did it I found it has several
benefits to me too. it makes the planes more uniform in width and
height. before all the wedges had to be fitted for width and the mouth
blocks as it was hard to get the 1 7/8" width I wanted.then there is
the time to fit and sand and adjust the mouth block . then when tuning
the plane I had to turn on my edge sander to knock the excess mouth
block off before I could joint the plane. now I skip that and I may be
able to skip the third jointing too and go right to lapping. plus the
time to adjust the mouth opening. Now I can make any plane to fit any
iron without having to have someone make a mouth block or me make one
the right size.
so it gives me a benefit and the user gets a better plane too I
think. one
without that ugly mouth block and one that is easier to adjust.


In which case, go for it!

In which case, go for it!

it's been a long time since I had a new idea. I was wondering if I ran out (G)
I am still limited to the tools I have and the money I don't have to try new
things though. so many idea's so few resources.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight wrote:


In which case, go for it!

it's been a long time since I had a new idea. I was wondering if I ran
out (G)
I am still limited to the tools I have and the money I don't have to
try new
things though. so many idea's so few resources.


If you ever want some free, semi-skilled labor now and then, give me a
shout. Remove .mapson to e-mail me.

Nice plane. After I get a few havetos out of the way, I'm going to try some
more handworky things. You are right about making the mortise more
organized. You can't go wrong with a good screw. Imagine having to find an
allen wrench late at night when fine tuning is needed to finish up the days
work! With a screw, most anything would work in a pinch. Stainless won't
show the wear from using this and that to make adjustments. Now, if you got
a brass bolt with a nice knurled head an inch in diameter that might be
different!
Wilson

"Steve Knight" wrote in
messagnews:fks941prqoqf7o8nm223pmv3q9iqjh1cue@4ax. com...
Ok time to unveil my new plane idea.
Now before you comment there will be a couple of changes once I get the
parts.
First the mortise and bolt will be different. There will be a ¾" mortise
with a
¾" washer with a ½" by ¼" slot in it. So that will neaten things up a bit.
Plus
I am debating and will go by feedback should I go with slotted or go to a
socket
head? I think I will stick with stainless as brass is so limited on the
bolt
sizes.
One thing I goofed a bit on these first planes is I underestimated how
much the
mouth would open up with a jointed the sole. The mouth would not close
enough on
some planes so I had to make a new mouthblock. On all future planes the
block
will be the same piece of wood as the sole. With a smaller gap in the
sole.
This design allows me to use the iron full width without the corners
knocked
off. Plus it lets me make all the planes the same width so wedges will be
easier
to fit. Before I had to depend on the thickness of the wood for the
thickness of
the main body.
No I can shorten the coffins to around 7.5" and still have the same
amount of
hand space on top. I did not have time to re flatten the sole after I put
the
finish on and get home before 8 so the soles are a bit dirty looking.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane10.jpg
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane11.jpg
Also on the hole in the wedge cool or should it go? I seem to be wedge
challenged and I have not thought of anything new to do with them.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...planepics8.JPG





--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 13:02:57 GMT, "Wilson Lamb" wrote:

Nice plane. After I get a few havetos out of the way, I'm going to try some
more handworky things. You are right about making the mortise more
organized. You can't go wrong with a good screw. Imagine having to find an
allen wrench late at night when fine tuning is needed to finish up the days
work! With a screw, most anything would work in a pinch. Stainless won't
show the wear from using this and that to make adjustments. Now, if you got
a brass bolt with a nice knurled head an inch in diameter that might be
different!

but then again it's not like you need to adjust it often though either. I would
include a wrench with the plane.
I thought of the knurled knob but they don't make large ones in much of any
material without a special order.
It also would get in the way of your hands I think.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight says...

Ok time to unveil my new plane idea.

I'm wondering if the sole will stay perfectly flat with small
adjustments to the mouth and if repeated adjusting of the mouth will
cause compression and distortion of the wood, again causing the sole not
to be perfectly flat. That's just something that occurs to me. Don't
know if it will really be a problem, but it seems like some cuts would
need to be perfect, and bad things happen to me when I need to be
perfect.

Steve, what is your method for cutting out the side slots (trapezoidals?)
that the wedges fit into? Hand done with floats?

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 17:44:40 -0800, "AAvK" wrote:


Steve, what is your method for cutting out the side slots (trapezoidals?)
that the wedges fit into? Hand done with floats?

I used to do it with a saw and chisel. but it was hard to get both sides
accurate and one of them always had a bunch of tearout because of the angle. so
I finally broke down and I had a fellow make me a jig from thick aluminum cut on
a waterjet. so I use a router now.
floats don't last long on tropical woods they dull pretty quick.


--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

I'm wondering if the sole will stay perfectly flat with small
adjustments to the mouth and if repeated adjusting of the mouth will
cause compression and distortion of the wood, again causing the sole not
to be perfectly flat. That's just something that occurs to me. Don't
know if it will really be a problem, but it seems like some cuts would
need to be perfect, and bad things happen to me when I need to be
perfect.

I am not the first to use this idea. several of the European plane manufactures
do it. plus the tropicals tend to be more stable. and the sole is far thicker
now too.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight says...

I am not the first to use this idea. several of the European plane manufactures
do it. plus the tropicals tend to be more stable. and the sole is far thicker
now too.

Cool. I'll likely end up with one eventually. I already have two of
your planes, which are excellent.

Cool. I'll likely end up with one eventually. I already have two of
your planes, which are excellent.

I don't think this makes the plane work any better it just makes it more
practical. easier to adjust easier to tune and easier to hold.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

I used to do it with a saw and chisel. but it was hard to get both sides
accurate and one of them always had a bunch of tearout because of the angle. so
I finally broke down and I had a fellow make me a jig from thick aluminum cut on
a waterjet. so I use a router now.
floats don't last long on tropical woods they dull pretty quick.


Interesting. I cannot picture how a router could cut at the inside side walls
of a small mortise... is it a geared corner thing?

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

fOn Mon, 28 Mar 2005 07:49:27 -0800, "AAvK" wrote:


Interesting. I cannot picture how a router could cut at the inside side walls
of a small mortise... is it a geared corner thing?

not sure what your talking about but here is the jig I use. the sides are
clamped underneath http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_temp_pics/jig.jpg


--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight wrote:
Ok time to unveil my new plane idea.
Now before you comment there will be a couple of changes once I get
the parts.
First the mortise and bolt will be different. There will be a =BE"
mortise with a
=BE" washer with a =BD" by =BC" slot in it. So that will neaten things
up a bit. Plus
I am debating and will go by feedback should I go with slotted or go
to a socket
head? I think I will stick with stainless as brass is so limited on
the bolt
sizes.

I still prefer iron Bailley style planes so I'd suggest you try a
knob, similar to what is done with block planes with adjustible mouths.
Then you could use a threaded rod instead of a bolt. That's how
I did a prototype several years ago. I never got the hang of adjusing
an iron held in place by a wedge. Either the iron slips up into
the plane when I use it or it's too tight to adjust it at all.
Finally I put a machine screw through the wedge so I could loosen
it slightly for adjustment then tighten it during use. I put a
knob on that bolt too. Guess I'm just a knob guy.

But if folks like to lay their palm on the toe of the plane
then a socket head should feel better. Slot heads tend to develop
burrs when some numnuts tries to use the wrong sized screwdriver
on them.

Also on the hole in the wedge cool or should it go? I seem to be
wedge
challenged and I have not thought of anything new to do with them.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...planepics8.JPG


For looks as well as function I'd move the hole down a bit so the
diagonal meet it tangent to the sides of the hole. Wedges on
old wooden bodied planes typically are forked with a prong on
side that fits in the slots on the inside of the cheeks
and a shallow ramp inbetween, either cut straight accross
or curved to lift and curl the shaving. Your vee-notches
appear to be unique. If they work well then cool, that is something
distinctive about your handiwork.

--=20

FF

Interesting. I cannot picture how a router could cut at the inside side walls
of a small mortise... is it a geared corner thing?

not sure what your talking about but here is the jig I use. the sides are
clamped underneath http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_temp_pics/jig.jpg


Thanks Steve, then the sides of the planes are separate pieces instead of the
body being one solid piece, which is what I thought they were. Makes more
sense for manufacturing to sell to the public.

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

here is the new washer. it is 3/4" and will go in a 3/4" mortise. it will look
far nicer then the setup I have now.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...ics/washer.jpg

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Thanks Steve, then the sides of the planes are separate pieces instead of the
body being one solid piece, which is what I thought they were. Makes more
sense for manufacturing to sell to the public.

I was wondering if you did not realize they were glued up.
I know how to make them out of two pieces but I can't afford the tooling to do
the job.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Steve Knight wrote:
Ok time to unveil my new plane idea.
Now before you comment there will be a couple of changes once I get
the parts.
First the mortise and bolt will be different. There will be a =BE"
mortise with a
=BE" washer with a =BD" by =BC" slot in it. So that will neaten things
up a bit. Plus
I am debating and will go by feedback should I go with slotted or go
to a socket
head? I think I will stick with stainless as brass is so limited on
the bolt
sizes.
One thing I goofed a bit on these first planes is I underestimated
how much the
mouth would open up with a jointed the sole. The mouth would not
close enough on
some planes so I had to make a new mouthblock. On all future planes
the block
will be the same piece of wood as the sole. With a smaller gap in the
sole.
This design allows me to use the iron full width without the
corners knocked
off. Plus it lets me make all the planes the same width so wedges
will be easier
to fit. Before I had to depend on the thickness of the wood for the
thickness of
the main body.
No I can shorten the coffins to around 7.5" and still have the same
amount of
hand space on top. I did not have time to re flatten the sole after
I put the
finish on and get home before 8 so the soles are a bit dirty looking.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane10.jpg
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane11.jpg
Also on the hole in the wedge cool or should it go? I seem to be
wedge
challenged and I have not thought of anything new to do with them.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...planepics8.JPG





--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering
instructions.
I would think the wedge would be more prone to splitting with such a
hole...but it does look neat.

Al

Steve,

Does the adjustable mouth block have a nut epoxied to it?

Peter

On 29 Mar 2005 12:46:34 -0800, wrote:

Steve,

Does the adjustable mouth block have a nut epoxied to it?

threaded insert. I am the king of them I bet I have used 4000 of those things.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Hi Steve,

First off, I would love to own one of your planes sometime in the
future. Very tasty work indeed.
Steve Knight wrote:
Ok time to unveil my new plane idea.
Now before you comment there will be a couple of changes once I get the parts.
First the mortise and bolt will be different. There will be a ¾" mortise with a
¾" washer with a ½" by ¼" slot in it. So that will neaten things up a bit. Plus
I am debating and will go by feedback should I go with slotted or go to a socket
head? I think I will stick with stainless as brass is so limited on the bolt
sizes.

Is strength also an issue in the choice between SS and brass?
One thing I goofed a bit on these first planes is I underestimated how much the
mouth would open up with a jointed the sole. The mouth would not close enough on
some planes so I had to make a new mouthblock. On all future planes the block
will be the same piece of wood as the sole. With a smaller gap in the sole.
This design allows me to use the iron full width without the corners knocked
off. Plus it lets me make all the planes the same width so wedges will be easier
to fit. Before I had to depend on the thickness of the wood for the thickness of
the main body.
No I can shorten the coffins to around 7.5" and still have the same amount of
hand space on top. I did not have time to re flatten the sole after I put the
finish on and get home before 8 so the soles are a bit dirty looking.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane10.jpg
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...newplane11.jpg
Also on the hole in the wedge cool or should it go? I seem to be wedge
challenged and I have not thought of anything new to do with them.

My only comment would be that I think that wedge design might tend to
split from lateral forces. You're the one with experience in that
plane, forgive the pun.

http://www.knight-toolworks.com/web_...planepics8.JPG