Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...

The vertical way makes cleaner cuts and takes less time. Most blades
don't cut perfectly flat, so by using the "nibbing away" method, you
get little ruffles......

In article , "orland" wrote:
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Takes longer, and the tenon cheeks are not as smooth.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 20:51:18 -0500, "orland" wrote:

Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...


Your instructor is correct in that laying the stock flat on the table
saw is safer. I use this method or a (home made) tenoning jig. The
tenoning jig method gives a smoother (and faster) cut, and for that
reason it is my personal preference. You can win the argument in that
laying the stock flat on the table is "better" due to improved safety.

(Doug Miller) writes:
In article , "orland" wrote:
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Takes longer, and the tenon cheeks are not as smooth.


Perhaps not longer for all cases, when one considers the
additional setup time to cut the cheeks (i.e. setup and
adjust the tenoning jig, fence etc.)

And the cheeks can be easily cleaned up with a couple
passes of the handy-dandy shoulder plane, which one is
probably already going to use to fit the joint.

scott

In article , says...
A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.


I do that when I've just got a few to cut. For more than 5 or 6, it's
quicker to set up the temoning jig.

Of course there's always the occasional piece that's too long to do
vertically.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

orland wrote:
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by
laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away
to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the
stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method,
i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it
is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...

There is one guy who teaches the flat-on-the-table method, Norm on New
Yankee Workshop.

If you want machined tennons that are smooth, let's not forget the
router table. As fast or faster than the table saw, and no tearout if
you back up your cut. Easier to use a square of material to push, which
automatically backs up your cut. And if you have a lift, easier to set
exact depth of cut, so you can sneak up on the fit.

lgb wrote:
In article , says...

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.



I do that when I've just got a few to cut. For more than 5 or 6, it's
quicker to set up the temoning jig.

Of course there's always the occasional piece that's too long to do
vertically.

In my experience you have quite a bit less control over dimensions this
way. I used to do this, and then bought a very cheap tenoning jig. The
jig definitely produces more consistent and controllable results; I
imagine a good jig would be terrific. It is more dangerous, though--I
visualize my fingers hitting the sawblade the whole time I am doing it.

"orland" wrote in message
...
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to
cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the
stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e.
where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Works even better with a dado blade. I have a tenon jig and it is accurate,
repeatable, makes a good cut. But since buying a dado blade, I probably do
have my tenons that way instead.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 20:51:18 -0500, "orland" wrote:

Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...



the cheeks of the tennon will be rougher.
it's easier to adjust the position of the fence accurately than the
depth of the blade.

Phisherman wrote:

Your instructor is correct in that laying the stock flat on the table
saw is safer. I use this method or a (home made) tenoning jig. The
tenoning jig method gives a smoother (and faster) cut, and for that
reason it is my personal preference. You can win the argument in that
laying the stock flat on the table is "better" due to improved safety.

Well - yes and no. Using the "flat on the table method" you're
using the miter fence. To get repeat cuts (shoulders) you need
a fence long enough for the part plus a stop for repeatability -
you will be doing more than one tenon and you will be making
at least two of the tenoned parts typically. So you've got a 36+"
miter fence - with stops. Now you need to hold the stock in place
while making the cut cause friction with the table top is going
to want to rotate the stock as you slide it along the table top.
That means hands somewhere close to the blade. Of course you
could be using the miter with the built in hold down - that'd
be safer.

But then you're going to be nibbling the cheeks of the tenon
and that means hand held - again close to the blade. And if
the cheeks are long say 3/4", that can take a lot of passes
for each face - more exposure of hand to blade.

Ah but what about using a dado blade? OK - but 1/2" wide
carbide teeth are a little scarier, especially with your hand
holding the part, down by the sharp spinning things.

Personally, a thin kerf blade and a tenon jig seems a lot
safer - it has clamps and supports AND your hand is way
above the blade and the other behind a bit of cast iron.

just my 2 cents.

charlie b

In article , donald girod wrote:

In my experience you have quite a bit less control over dimensions this
way. I used to do this, and then bought a very cheap tenoning jig. The
jig definitely produces more consistent and controllable results; I
imagine a good jig would be terrific. It is more dangerous, though--I
visualize my fingers hitting the sawblade the whole time I am doing it.

I don't know what kind of tenoning jig you're using, but on mine (Powermatic),
the operator's hands don't come close to the blade at all. If you keep your
hands on the handles of the jig, the probability of coming into contact with
the blade is essentially zero.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

"charlie b" wrote in message
...

Well - yes and no. Using the "flat on the table method" you're
using the miter fence. To get repeat cuts (shoulders) you need
a fence long enough for the part plus a stop for repeatability -
you will be doing more than one tenon and you will be making
at least two of the tenoned parts typically. So you've got a 36+"
miter fence - with stops. Now you need to hold the stock in place
while making the cut cause friction with the table top is going
to want to rotate the stock as you slide it along the table top.
That means hands somewhere close to the blade. Of course you
could be using the miter with the built in hold down - that'd
be safer.

Just a slight correction here Charlie - having made cuts this way (though it
is not how I typically make tennons), the 36" fence isn't necessary, and
your hands really are not any closer to the blade than the miter slot.
Unless the piece is small, and does not protrude out beyond the miter guage
a decent amount, you really don't have friction/rotation problems with a
straight cut. It's really pretty easy to hold stock against the face of the
miter and get a good smooth push.


But then you're going to be nibbling the cheeks of the tenon
and that means hand held - again close to the blade. And if
the cheeks are long say 3/4", that can take a lot of passes
for each face - more exposure of hand to blade.

Your hand is typically right at the miter, so it never gets close to the
blade. Though... as has been mentioned, the nibbling technique does leave a
rough surface, so cleanup is necessary.


Ah but what about using a dado blade? OK - but 1/2" wide
carbide teeth are a little scarier, especially with your hand
holding the part, down by the sharp spinning things.

Hey - whaddaya mean dado? That's what routers are for!


Personally, a thin kerf blade and a tenon jig seems a lot
safer - it has clamps and supports AND your hand is way
above the blade and the other behind a bit of cast iron.

Aside from the difference in safety, (either technique is equally safe), the
jig certainly is a preferred technique. Cleaner, faster, more better.


--

-Mike-

orland wrote:
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

I'm no expert, but I do this all the time. Usually, I install a dado
set to reduce the nibble count.

If I'm only doing one or two, I'll do it with the blade that's in the
saw, and give the cheeks a quickie cleanup with a hand plane. Other
times, I'll cut the shoulders as you describe and trim the cheeks on a
bandsaw or with a hand saw.

In wooddorking, there's usually six hundred different ways to do
something, and almost any of them can be right, at any given time, given
the current alignment of the planets, polarity if energy emissions from
the wood, and signs of the zodiac.

Barry

"orland" wrote in message
...
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to
cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the
stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e.
where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...


Hmmm.
Wonder what he thinks are the saftey risks of using a stout cast iron tenon
jig such as a Powermatic?
Joey

charlie b wrote:

Well - yes and no. Using the "flat on the table method" you're
using the miter fence. To get repeat cuts (shoulders) you need
a fence long enough for the part plus a stop for repeatability -
you will be doing more than one tenon and you will be making
at least two of the tenoned parts typically. So you've got a 36+"
miter fence - with stops.

Much easier to key off the end of the tenon; use a stop on the fence,
before the blade of course to prevent trapped pieces. I just clamp a
short board to the fence. This has the added benefit that if your tenons
are all the same length, you can use the same setup for all cuts
regardless of length of the piece.


Personally, a thin kerf blade and a tenon jig seems a lot
safer - it has clamps and supports AND your hand is way
above the blade and the other behind a bit of cast iron.

Funny you should say that; I gave up on thin-kerf blades specifically
because they gave me trouble in a tenon jig. If I did a second trim pass
with the blad unsuppored on one side (i.e. wood on only one side of the
blade), the blade flexed badly enough to cause serious trouble with the
joint. I found a full kerf blade works great in a tenon jig. Of course,
it needs to be sharp.

PK

orland says...

Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...

That method works, but it leaves ridges, effectively making the tenon
bigger than you intended, causing more work to get it to the correct
size. Removing the ridges and keeping a flat surface isn't as easy as
it looks. I have resorted to passing the them over a straight bit in
the router to shave off the ridges. It is also difficult to get the
blade height on a table saw exact. Even if you make a test cut and
measure the depth with a good caliper, the ridge rears its ugly head
again and you will be measuring to the top of the ridge and not the the
bottom of the cut. I've also done them with a router and with a tenon
jig on the table saw. So far, I got the best results with a tenon jig.
It is more tedious to set up, but once it's done, it's done. I just
finished setting up a new band saw with the help of Duginske, and I have
a feeling I will be doing a lot of tenons with it.

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "orland" wrote:

Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons.

More common in the UK. I don't think I've ever seen one of those USA
vertical tenoning jigs here.


How do commercial US workshops cut tenons ? Do they uses sleds and
saws, shapers, or dedicated tenoning machines as we do ? Not cheap,
and they're a dedicated machine that only does that one task, but
they're surprisingly popular.
--
Smert' spamionam

"orland" wrote in message
...



A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e.
where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Nahm does this all the time...

When I tried it, with my ATB blade, I had little ridges and a small bat-ear
at the cheek/shoulder. Personally, I'd probably invest in a FTG blade if I
was going to do this alot...

Andy Dingley wrote:

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "orland" wrote:

Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons.

More common in the UK. I don't think I've ever seen one of those USA
vertical tenoning jigs here.

How do commercial US workshops cut tenons ? Do they uses sleds and
saws, shapers, or dedicated tenoning machines as we do ? Not cheap,
and they're a dedicated machine that only does that one task, but
they're surprisingly popular.

Not surprisingly, it depends... Most production shops I'm aware of
do use dedicated tenoners...

Is there something available there that is within average
individual/serious hobby price range?

Andy Dingley wrote in
:
snip
How do commercial US workshops cut tenons ? Do they uses sleds and
saws, shapers, or dedicated tenoning machines as we do ? Not cheap,
and they're a dedicated machine that only does that one task, but
they're surprisingly popular.

I have no knowledge of commercial US workshops, but a question:

Are you talking about a dedicated tenoning machine such as the Leigh FMT,
or something more like the JDS Multirouter? Or yet something else?

Patriarch

Patriarch wrote:

Andy Dingley wrote in
:
snip
How do commercial US workshops cut tenons ? Do they uses sleds and
saws, shapers, or dedicated tenoning machines as we do ? Not cheap,
and they're a dedicated machine that only does that one task, but
they're surprisingly popular.

I have no knowledge of commercial US workshops, but a question:

Are you talking about a dedicated tenoning machine such as the Leigh FMT,
or something more like the JDS Multirouter? Or yet something else?

Something like this, I'm thinking...

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/wood..._tenoning.html

In article ,
says...
Much easier to key off the end of the tenon; use a stop on the fence,
before the blade of course to prevent trapped pieces.


If you're nibbling it away, there are no trapped pieces :-).

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

It was somewhere outside Barstow when Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Something like this, I'm thinking...
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/wood..._tenoning.html

Yes, that sort of thing. $5K starting point and upwards.

Most weekend warriors would not even know
what a typical production tenoning machine looks
like or cost(waaaaay over 5K used).

Here is a sample:

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forum...pl?read=394281



Patriarch wrote:

Are you talking about a dedicated tenoning machine such as the Leigh FMT,
or something more like the JDS Multirouter? Or yet something else?

Patriarch

"orland" wrote in message
...
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to
cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the
stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e.
where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

There is no one single best way to make tenons. You use the method which
works best for the project at hand.
In addition to nibbling with the saw blade or using a tenoning jig, you can
cut the tenons with a dado head. Or you can cut the tenons with
a tenon cutter on your router table. Or you can cut them with a handsaw.
Those are just the ways that come off the top of
my head.

I don't think that any particular way has a monopoly on safety
Jim

donald girod wrote:

lgb wrote:
In article , says...

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e.
where the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says
it is a safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.



I do that when I've just got a few to cut. For more than 5 or 6, it's
quicker to set up the temoning jig.

Of course there's always the occasional piece that's too long to do
vertically.

In my experience you have quite a bit less control over dimensions this
way. I used to do this, and then bought a very cheap tenoning jig. The
jig definitely produces more consistent and controllable results; I
imagine a good jig would be terrific. It is more dangerous, though--I
visualize my fingers hitting the sawblade the whole time I am doing it.

Another one of those areas where a RAS shines. Just flip the blade to the
horizontal position and use the aux table.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Pat Barber wrote in
:

Most weekend warriors would not even know
what a typical production tenoning machine looks
like or cost(waaaaay over 5K used).

Here is a sample:

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forum...pl?read=394281


That sucker looks like there ought to be a Spec5 driving, and a small
platoon of grunts following in proximity!

On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 20:51:18 -0500, "orland" wrote:

Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...



When I have a number of tenons to cut, as in a run of doors, I use the
method of cutting the shoulders as you describe.

I'll lay up a nice wide piece and cut maybe six sticks worth with
their shoulder cuts, flip them over and cut the other side.

Where we fall out is on the nibbling. The nibbling creates a
chattered cut - not fit for gluing.

A decent glue up demands an interface between the parts that cannot be
achieved by your teacher's method - except for this:

It is just possible, although it is an extraordinary effort, to nibble
away, such as you describe, and then go back over the nibbled area
with a lateral motion, back and forth across the saw blade. This is
more of a field man's trick than a shop man's common practice.

A tenon jig is no big thing to cobble, if you can't afford the metal
version.

It's worth your time to do.

Be advised - your jig will be for naught if your blade is not truly
perpendicular to your table. If it is not - you will cut a wedge -
not a tenon.


Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

I usually cut them flat. My method is to set the fence to match the
length of the tenon and cut the shoulder first. Using a miter gauge, I
make a few passes to remove most of the material, then slide the tenon
across the blade perpendicularly (bumping against the fence as a stop)
while slowly moving the miter gauge forward. I find this gives a nice
smooth finish on the face.

orland wrote:
Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e. where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...

Well guys, you've given me a lot to think about. I've decided to buy the
CELASCHI [320C] - 8 HEAD DOUBLE END TENONER for my son. It's only $6,000 or
$7000 more than a Delta tenoning jig and it looks like it will last! It can
probably also help out if we're attacked by aliens.

Now for the hard question. I visited his shop class and spoke with the
instructor. Turns out that he has an old (and I mean OLD) Delta jig that
weights about 30 pounds or so. It's basically a hunk of metal that slides in
a track and has a clamp. It doesn't have any fine adjustment capability.
After this discussion I'm think of actually getting a tenoning jig. I've
seen the Delta which is so-so and costs a lot and heard that Woodcraft also
makes a good one at $70 but it also weighs in at over twenty pounds.
Woodworkers Supply has an aluminum 'universal table saw jig' (p. 34,
#30-254) that has the capability to do tenons, spline joints, lap joints,
etc. It costs ~$60 and weighs around 5 lbs. If anyone knows about this or
has an opinion on the above it will be appreciated.

orland
"Tom Watson" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 21 Mar 2005 20:51:18 -0500, "orland" wrote:

Nowhere have I seen anyone advise cutting tenons on a table saw by laying
the stock flat and first cutting the shoulders and then nibbling away to
cut
the length of the tenons. Most 'experts' use a tenoning jig where the
stock
is perpendicular to the table.

A instructor in my son's school suggests using the former method, i.e.
where
the stock lays flat on the table. Why not use this method? He says it is
a
safer way to cut the tenons and gives just as exact result.

Thanks...



When I have a number of tenons to cut, as in a run of doors, I use the
method of cutting the shoulders as you describe.

I'll lay up a nice wide piece and cut maybe six sticks worth with
their shoulder cuts, flip them over and cut the other side.

Where we fall out is on the nibbling. The nibbling creates a
chattered cut - not fit for gluing.

A decent glue up demands an interface between the parts that cannot be
achieved by your teacher's method - except for this:

It is just possible, although it is an extraordinary effort, to nibble
away, such as you describe, and then go back over the nibbled area
with a lateral motion, back and forth across the saw blade. This is
more of a field man's trick than a shop man's common practice.

A tenon jig is no big thing to cobble, if you can't afford the metal
version.

It's worth your time to do.

Be advised - your jig will be for naught if your blade is not truly
perpendicular to your table. If it is not - you will cut a wedge -
not a tenon.


Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 20:05:31 -0500, "orland" wrote:


Now for the hard question. I visited his shop class and spoke with the
instructor. Turns out that he has an old (and I mean OLD) Delta jig that
weights about 30 pounds or so. It's basically a hunk of metal that slides in
a track and has a clamp. It doesn't have any fine adjustment capability.

If you can buy that "hunk" for less than fifty - I'll give you seventy
five for it.

It will replace the one that I foolishly sold about fifteen years ago.


Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

"orland" wrote in message
...

After this discussion I'm think of actually getting a tenoning jig. I've
seen the Delta which is so-so and costs a lot and heard that Woodcraft
also
makes a good one at $70 but it also weighs in at over twenty pounds.


The Woodcraft is almost identical to the 183 model Delta. Neither is 20
pounds, I don't think. I have the Delta, but if I was buying tomorrow, I'd
buy the Woodcraft and invest the difference is Bob Vila videos.



Woodworkers Supply has an aluminum 'universal table saw jig' (p. 34,
#30-254) that has the capability to do tenons, spline joints, lap joints,
etc. It costs ~$60 and weighs around 5 lbs. If anyone knows about this or
has an opinion on the above it will be appreciated.

Never saw one so I can't comment.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 20:11:04 -0500, Tom Watson
scribbled:

It will replace the one that I foolishly sold about fifteen years ago.

Who is again foolishly selling tools. You ain't in bizness no more,
Tom. Luckily, the prices you are posting will allow you to buy the
same tools again and mebbe make a little profit in the bargains.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html

Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker
If you can buy that "hunk" for less than fifty - I'll give you seventy
five for it.

Hey Tom, in turn I'll give you a hunnert for it and pay
postage.

It will replace the one that I foolishly sold about fifteen years ago.

sigh... The things we do in our yout'.

UA100

In article , "orland" wrote:

Woodworkers Supply has an aluminum 'universal table saw jig' (p. 34,
#30-254) that has the capability to do tenons, spline joints, lap joints,
etc. It costs ~$60 and weighs around 5 lbs. If anyone knows about this or
has an opinion on the above it will be appreciated.

Heavy is your friend. Light weight means more vibration, less stability.

Cast iron is also your friend. Aluminum means flexing. Cast iron means
stiffness.

Aluminum also means aluminum oxide rubbing off on the wood, and leaving gray
marks. Used to have a Craftsman TS with aluminum top. Glad I don't any more.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 04:56:14 -0600, Unisaw A-100
wrote:


sigh... The things we do in our yout'.

UA100

Wish I could say I was young and stupid...

....but I wasn't young.




Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

In article , Tom Watson wrote:
On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 04:56:14 -0600, Unisaw A-100
wrote:


sigh... The things we do in our yout'.

UA100

Wish I could say I was young and stupid...

....but I wasn't young.

And you're still not.

Hope you got the other problem fixed... :-)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

On Wed, 23 Mar 2005 13:15:19 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , "orland" wrote:

Woodworkers Supply has an aluminum 'universal table saw jig' (p. 34,
#30-254) that has the capability to do tenons, spline joints, lap joints,
etc. It costs ~$60 and weighs around 5 lbs. If anyone knows about this or
has an opinion on the above it will be appreciated.

Heavy is your friend. Light weight means more vibration, less stability.

Cast iron is also your friend. Aluminum means flexing. Cast iron means
stiffness.

Aluminum also means aluminum oxide rubbing off on the wood, and leaving gray
marks. Used to have a Craftsman TS with aluminum top. Glad I don't any more.

Very true. But heavy is not good for portability, if that is an
issue.