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"rob" wrote in message news:tjC_d.12941$Z07.162@trnddc02... I had a cutom 220 extension cord made to run a stream pressure washer (kerosene powered boiler) from my dryer outlet to by back yard driveway area. Worked great. You can buy the heavy cable and the plugs at HD or Lowes. He asks in all innocence . . . "What's a stream pressure washer?" (R, D, & G) -- Nahmie Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot. |
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... "Jerry S." wrote in message ... Leon wrote: Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power". Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will warm up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that the air coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at 82° as it is when she puts it at 72°. Oh hell - that's nothin'. Ask anyone of us that live in cold country what the first the wife does when she jumps into the cold car... Reaches across the car and turns the damn blower on full. Can't explain to her that she's making us colder by doing that and she has to wait for the engine to heat up. Now justaminnit! How many of us are married to this same woman who does this with the house thermostat & heater blower? Mine also used to do this when we had a "fancy" car(69 Imperial) with the thermostat controlled heater system. -- Nahmie Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot. |
In article , Richard Clements wrote:
how about the wiring in the saw? No. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
In article ,
WillR wrote: Would a 2 Liter Bottle of Don Pedro Brandy be acceptable? A recent visitor left it here... I know why....LOL That stuff was made to build up courage for the day when they run the bulls. 2 Litres, no less. Don't you need a permit for that? waitasec... you're not trying to hurt me, are you?!?!? |
Drink alot of beer. Or could be a typo for steam...
"Norman D. Crow" wrote in message ... "rob" wrote in message news:tjC_d.12941$Z07.162@trnddc02... I had a cutom 220 extension cord made to run a stream pressure washer (kerosene powered boiler) from my dryer outlet to by back yard driveway area. Worked great. You can buy the heavy cable and the plugs at HD or Lowes. He asks in all innocence . . . "What's a stream pressure washer?" (R, D, & G) -- Nahmie Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot. |
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Richard Clements wrote: how about the wiring in the saw? No. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? you know that was a joke Right? just making sure |
In article ,
Richard Clements wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , Richard Clements wrote: how about the wiring in the saw? No. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? you know that was a joke Right? just making sure yup |
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Unquestionably Confused
wrote: Once again: The circuit breaker is there to protect the WIRING, NOT the appliance. The rating of the saw, etc. when stated as "Use only on 15 AMP circuit" states the MINIMUM rating for the circuit to which the saw is connected. That essentially the logic behind the fact you don't have any one amp circuit breakers protecting your electric toothbrush recharger, the nightlight in the hallway, etc. Permit a naive question from a Brit So what does protect the saw ? Suppose there's a bigamp circuit feeding a circuit for the drier or the saw, and the saw only requires littleamp current. Is there a protective device anywhere to limit this littleamp current ? What about the 1A toothbrush ? |
Andy Dingley wrote:
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Unquestionably Confused wrote: =20 =20 Once again: The circuit breaker is there to protect the WIRING, NOT th= e=20 appliance. The rating of the saw, etc. when stated as "Use only on 15 = AMP circuit" states the MINIMUM rating for the circuit to which the saw= =20 is connected. That essentially the logic behind the fact you don't have any one amp=20 circuit breakers protecting your electric toothbrush recharger, the=20 nightlight in the hallway, etc. =20 =20 Permit a naive question from a Brit =20 So what does protect the saw ? Suppose there's a bigamp circuit feeding a circuit for the drier or the saw, and the saw only requires littleamp current.=20 Is there a protective device anywhere to limit this littleamp current ? What about the 1A toothbrush ? =20 Not normally in the North American system... Occasionally someone might use a power bar with a breaker, or a GFCI=20 outlet with a "breaker" or Circuit interrupter might be a better name. It's just the way it is... --=20 Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20 who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw |
on 3/23/2005 4:27 PM Andy Dingley said the following:
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Unquestionably Confused wrote: Once again: The circuit breaker is there to protect the WIRING, NOT the appliance. The rating of the saw, etc. when stated as "Use only on 15 AMP circuit" states the MINIMUM rating for the circuit to which the saw is connected. That essentially the logic behind the fact you don't have any one amp circuit breakers protecting your electric toothbrush recharger, the nightlight in the hallway, etc. Permit a naive question from a Brit So what does protect the saw ? Suppose there's a bigamp circuit feeding a circuit for the drier or the saw, and the saw only requires littleamp current. Is there a protective device anywhere to limit this littleamp current ? What about the 1A toothbrush ? The device takes what it needs and no more. If it's defective it shorts out and must be repaired or trashed. All that available current is not going to hurt it. Think about it for a minute in the context of your own home. You run light bulbs on the same circuit as your television set don't you? Do you also run a clock in the kitchen on the same circuit that you plug a portable bread maker into? An electric frying pan? Coffee maker? What protects them (light bulb or clock)? Nothing. Any electrical equipment that needs current limiting provides its own. I don't know why I didn't think of this before. I have a Sears Radial Arm Saw. The motor for that saw has a reset button which provides overload protection. Even though the circuit could provide enough amperage to fry the wiring by overheating in a "stall" condition, the overload sense the heat rise and shuts off power - just as a circuit breaker does - before any damage is done. When you think about it, many appliances or electronic devices have either a small fuse or internal circuit breaker inside to protect them. What they are protecting the device from is an INTERNAL fault, generally, not something in the power feed. I'm sure there are more learned explanations that neither you nor I would understand but the basic is as previously stated. The circuit breaker is there to protect the wiring so that it doesn't become a resistance element and heat up the house by glowing cherry red within the walls. |
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Unquestionably Confused
wrote: What protects them (light bulb or clock)? Nothing. On the contrary - the UK system would give them their own 1A fuse, in the plug. In my house I have one style of socket, and I can use it for everything from the 3HP cabinet saw or welder down to an unearthed tiny-current clock. All appliances get protected appropriately. |
on 3/23/2005 6:32 PM Andy Dingley said the following:
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Unquestionably Confused wrote: What protects them (light bulb or clock)? Nothing. On the contrary - the UK system would give them their own 1A fuse, in the plug. In my house I have one style of socket, and I can use it for everything from the 3HP cabinet saw or welder down to an unearthed tiny-current clock. All appliances get protected appropriately. Ah, I see. This is that "ring" or circular scheme that you or one of your countrymen was mentioning when this thread first started, correct? Okay, it's a US thing then. You DO have your wiring on a circuit breaker though, correct, it's just sitting there with, what?, 40 or 50 amps on it and heavy duty wiring to boot? What kind of fuse do you have in the plug for your 3HP cabinet saw or welder? |
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Unquestionably Confused
wrote: Ah, I see. This is that "ring" or circular scheme that you or one of your countrymen was mentioning when this thread first started, correct? Yes. The ring has a 32A breaker protecting it against wiring faults. Appliances are protected by the plug fuse. What kind of fuse do you have in the plug for your 3HP cabinet saw or welder? Biggest plug fuse is a 13A (for 230V), which is what the saw uses. -- Smert' spamionam |
Andy Dingley wrote:
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Unquestionably Confused wrote: Ah, I see. This is that "ring" or circular scheme that you or one of your countrymen was mentioning when this thread first started, correct? Yes. The ring has a 32A breaker protecting it against wiring faults. Appliances are protected by the plug fuse. What kind of fuse do you have in the plug for your 3HP cabinet saw or welder? Biggest plug fuse is a 13A (for 230V), which is what the saw uses. I think you are getting a lot of BS from some people. Yes the circuit breaker protects the wiring. And, yes, lots of appliances have a fuse to protect the appliance. Lights, either built in or table top types don't have fuses. Most electronic equipment has fuses and most motors or appliances with motors have a fuse or circuit breaker that turns it off it the motor gets too hot. Coffee pots and other heat devices usually have a fuse. None of these fuses are in the plug but in the appliance itself. You might say that the U.S. system is less safe, but actual fires and fire deaths in residences are fairly low and continue to decline. Carelessness is the major cause of fires,e.g., burning weeds sets the house on fire or a guy falls asleep with a cigarette. Fires from appliance failures are relatively rare in homes. |
"George E. Cawthon" wrote:
Lights, either built in or table top types don't have fuses. I was surprised to learn recently that most incandescent bulbs are indeed protected by internal fuses. Here's a couple of links (search for the word "fuse" in either one). http://www.bulbs.com/lightingguide/t...entdiagram.asp http://members.misty.com/don/bulb1.html |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 07:15:38 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote: I think you are getting a lot of BS from some people. Yes the circuit breaker protects the wiring. And, yes, lots of appliances have a fuse to protect the appliance. Lights, either built in or table top types don't have fuses. [snippage] I always considered a light to be a fuse in and of itself. In fact, I recall electronic devices that actually had an incandescant bulb in line at some point acting as a fuse. -- LRod Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999 http://www.woodbutcher.net Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997 |
Roy Smith wrote:
"George E. Cawthon" wrote: Lights, either built in or table top types don't have fuses. I was surprised to learn recently that most incandescent bulbs are indeed protected by internal fuses. Here's a couple of links (search for the word "fuse" in either one). http://www.bulbs.com/lightingguide/t...entdiagram.asp http://members.misty.com/don/bulb1.html Haven't convinced me. Interesting that the first site show the construction, but doesn't show the fuse, and then says there is a fuse. I've never seen a regular screw in with a fuse; in fact I have never seen any kind of incandescent bulb with a built in fuse. In all case where the bulb doesn't work, the element is either broken or burned. In fact, a bulb is essentially a glowing fuse. And, I have never seen a bulb that tripped the line fuse/breaker. A fuse in a bulb, makes not sense. |
LRod wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 07:15:38 GMT, "George E. Cawthon" wrote: I think you are getting a lot of BS from some people. Yes the circuit breaker protects the wiring. And, yes, lots of appliances have a fuse to protect the appliance. Lights, either built in or table top types don't have fuses. [snippage] I always considered a light to be a fuse in and of itself. In fact, I recall electronic devices that actually had an incandescant bulb in line at some point acting as a fuse. Indeed. That's why the concept of fusing a light or lamp bulb is rather silly. |
In article ,
"George E. Cawthon" wrote: Roy Smith wrote: "George E. Cawthon" wrote: Lights, either built in or table top types don't have fuses. I was surprised to learn recently that most incandescent bulbs are indeed protected by internal fuses. Here's a couple of links (search for the word "fuse" in either one). http://www.bulbs.com/lightingguide/t...entdiagram.asp http://members.misty.com/don/bulb1.html Haven't convinced me. Interesting that the first site show the construction, but doesn't show the fuse, and then says there is a fuse. My guess is that the unlabeled arrow on the left should have said "fuse wire" but got cropped off the image for some reason. The text in the 2nd link above seems pretty clear -- one of the internal wires is intentionally thinned, and this thin section acts as a fuse. It also explains the reason why -- to protect against shorts caused by internal arcing. Makes a lot of sense to me. Here's another couple of URLs. The first one has a particularly clear diagram: http://www.goodmart.com/facts/light_...n_diagram.aspx http://www.enchantedlearning.com/dev...ghtbulb/label/ |
On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 00:37:28 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote: Indeed. That's why the concept of fusing a light or lamp bulb is rather silly. Lamps need fusing because they're small portable appliances whose cables suffer a hard life from being moved around. You're not fusing the bulb as such, you're fusing against cable chafing. |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 08:18:20 -0700, LRod wrote
(in article ): On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 07:15:38 GMT, "George E. Cawthon" wrote: I think you are getting a lot of BS from some people. Yes the circuit breaker protects the wiring. And, yes, lots of appliances have a fuse to protect the appliance. Lights, either built in or table top types don't have fuses. [snippage] I always considered a light to be a fuse in and of itself. In fact, I recall electronic devices that actually had an incandescant bulb in line at some point acting as a fuse. Also a lamp was often in the circuit to act as a surge limiter. -Bruce |
Typically MIG welders use a different plug,; there are about four common
types which are not interchanable with any of the myriad of standard dryer receptacles. Mark "Lee Michaels" wrote in message ... " On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 14:20:11 GMT, "Jim Jacobs" wrote: I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no 220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I will have to change the plug on my saw. Dryer sockets are commonly used for many welding "buzzboxes". And they draw a lot more amps than most saws. Just look on the electrical panel to make sure that you have enough amps on that circuit. |
Typically a dryer will draw more amperage than a table saw.
Checking the wiring is a good odea, but 8 G and 40 amps to support an electric dryer would not be uncommon. Since we don't know the table saw specs it makes speculation a little more difficult. My contractors saw is 220 and draws about 12 amps over 10 gauge with a 20 Amp breaker...more than sufficient. Even if he has 10 G wiring and 30 amp breaker which should be minimal at best for an electric dryer, this should support any common cabinet saw. I have no problem wiring, but given the situation, I'd hire an electrician to add the circuit. Chances are the panel is in or near the garage - should be an easy run. Mark wrote in message ups.com... hylourgos wrote: OK, let's assume you can check the wiring gauge size at the panel or at the outlet. If it happens to be beefy enough to handle, say, a 30A breaker, is it then safe to switch out to that larger capacity breaker? H. If you don't know, ask an electrician to look at it for you. To many variables such as type of wire, type of insulation, length of run, etc. |
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