I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I will
have to change the plug on my saw.

Thanks for the help.

Jim

Jim Jacobs wrote:
I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I will
have to change the plug on my saw.

Thanks for the help.

Jim



Or change the dryer socket. Spose they would like it netter if you
changed your plug. As i recall the molded drier cables are/were just a
few $$.

As long as the panel breaker is at least the required capacity.. YES.


--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 14:20:11 GMT, "Jim Jacobs"
wrote:

I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I will
have to change the plug on my saw.

Yes

"Jim Jacobs" wrote in message
link.net...
I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I
will have to change the plug on my saw.


Yes you can providing the amp rating is high enough. More than likely it
is. Mine shares that circuit and I can run the dryer and TS at the same
time. I did not want either to interrupt the other.

There is nothing magic about one kind of 220V over another, at least in this
60 Hz country. But you might want to change the circuit breaker to match
the saw requirement. You could also change the outlet to match the saw,
instead of the other way around. Six of one-half a dozen of the other.

Steve

"Jim Jacobs" wrote in message
link.net...
I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I
will have to change the plug on my saw.

Thanks for the help.

Jim

" On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 14:20:11 GMT, "Jim Jacobs"
wrote:

I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is
no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I
will
have to change the plug on my saw.

Dryer sockets are commonly used for many welding "buzzboxes". And they draw
a lot more amps than most saws.

Just look on the electrical panel to make sure that you have enough amps on
that circuit.

snip But you might want to change the circuit breaker to match
the saw requirement. snip


DON'T do that!! The circuit breaker is there to protect the wiring -
not the appliance plugged into it. I'll amend that - you can size it
down to a smaller size breaker (15 amp from 20 amp) but never size it
up unless you know for sure what size and type the wire is and the
length of the run.

"Steven and Gail Peterson" wrote in message
link.net...
There is nothing magic about one kind of 220V over another, at least in
this 60 Hz country. But you might want to change the circuit breaker to
match the saw requirement. You could also change the outlet to match the
saw, instead of the other way around. Six of one-half a dozen of the
other.


Ok, changing the circuit breaker is a waste of time and money and could be
quite dangerous if you increase its rating.

"Leon" wrote in message . com...

"Steven and Gail Peterson" wrote in message
link.net...
There is nothing magic about one kind of 220V over another, at least in
this 60 Hz country. But you might want to change the circuit breaker to
match the saw requirement. You could also change the outlet to match the
saw, instead of the other way around. Six of one-half a dozen of the
other.


Ok, changing the circuit breaker is a waste of time and money and could be
quite dangerous if you increase its rating.



Also, since it is a rental unit, it's probably better not to mess with the house wiring and just change the plug on the saw.

I had a cutom 220 extension cord made to run a stream pressure washer
(kerosene powered boiler) from my dryer outlet to by back yard driveway
area. Worked great. You can buy the heavy cable and the plugs at HD or
Lowes.
"Jim Jacobs" wrote in message
link.net...
I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I
will have to change the plug on my saw.

Thanks for the help.

Jim

Steven and Gail Peterson wrote:

...But you might want to change the circuit breaker to match
the saw requirement.


No need---as has been noted many times, the circuit breaker is to
protect the circuit wiring, not the device...

Jim Jacobs wrote:
I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I will
have to change the plug on my saw.

If it's an electric dryer, it's probably a dedicated 220V 30A circuit,
with a NEMA 14-30R (http://www.leviton.com/sections/techsupp/nema.htm).
This is a 4-wire plug, delivering two hots, a neutral, and ground.
There's 110V from either hot to neutral, and 220V from one hot to the
other.

You don't mention what kind of motor is in your Unisaw, so I'm assuming
it's the common 3HP, 220V. In theory, this needs a 220V 15A circuit, but
most people put them on a 20A circuit (mostly because it doesn't cost any
more to install the 20 and you might need it some day in the future).
The circuit you have now will work fine. You would need to put a 14-30P
plug on your unisaw. Your saw's cord will have 3 wires -- two hots and a
ground. The neutral pin on the 14-30P plug will be left unconnected.

Your dryer needs the neutral because it has internal components that need
110V (the controller, light, probably the motor that makes the drum go
around; only the heating element is on 220V). You saw only has the
220V motor, so it doesn't need the neutral.

Now that I've explained all that, please go hire an electrician to do the
work, or at least check what you've done. I've made a lot of guesses
above about what you've really got from your vague description, any of
which could be wrong.

OK, let's assume you can check the wiring gauge size at the panel or at
the outlet. If it happens to be beefy enough to handle, say, a 30A
breaker, is it then safe to switch out to that larger capacity breaker?

H.

hylourgos wrote:
OK, let's assume you can check the wiring gauge size at the panel or
at
the outlet. If it happens to be beefy enough to handle, say, a 30A
breaker, is it then safe to switch out to that larger capacity
breaker?

H.

If you don't know, ask an electrician to look at it for you. To many
variables such as type of wire, type of insulation, length of run, etc.

"Steven and Gail Peterson" wrote in message
link.net...

There is nothing magic about one kind of 220V over another, at least in
this 60 Hz country.

Since this is electricity for the dryer, he will have the added advantage of
being able to cut green wood and have it dried when the cut is done.

My drill press is on the same circuit as the lights in my 9 month old
sons room. Is that why brown stuff keeps oozing out the end of my
boards?

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
news:H7D_d.5632$ed6.4260@trndny06:


"Steven and Gail Peterson" wrote in
message
link.net...

There is nothing magic about one kind of 220V over another, at
least in this 60 Hz country.

Since this is electricity for the dryer, he will have the added
advantage of being able to cut green wood and have it dried when the
cut is done.


But he WILL have to use something other than the 4" dryer vent for dust
collection. DAMHIKT.

Patriarch

OK, I will admit to the assumption that a dryer has a higher amp rating than
a table saw. A 30 or 40 amp table saw would be a real monster. Like a
sawmill. I would go for a circuit breaker that trips near (but above) the
saw spec, so it does provide protection.

Steve

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...

"Steven and Gail Peterson" wrote in message
link.net...
There is nothing magic about one kind of 220V over another, at least in
this 60 Hz country. But you might want to change the circuit breaker to
match the saw requirement. You could also change the outlet to match the
saw, instead of the other way around. Six of one-half a dozen of the
other.


Ok, changing the circuit breaker is a waste of time and money and could be
quite dangerous if you increase its rating.

on 3/18/2005 12:13 PM Steven and Gail Peterson said the following:
OK, I will admit to the assumption that a dryer has a higher amp rating than
a table saw. A 30 or 40 amp table saw would be a real monster. Like a
sawmill. I would go for a circuit breaker that trips near (but above) the
saw spec, so it does provide protection.

Once again: The circuit breaker is there to protect the WIRING, NOT the
appliance. The rating of the saw, etc. when stated as "Use only on 15
AMP circuit" states the MINIMUM rating for the circuit to which the saw
is connected.

That essentially the logic behind the fact you don't have any one amp
circuit breakers protecting your electric toothbrush recharger, the
nightlight in the hallway, etc.

The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit
breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects
the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not
the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The
circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker
protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the
wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the
saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit
breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects
the wiring, not the saw.

"Steven and Gail Peterson" wrote in message
link.net...
OK, I will admit to the assumption that a dryer has a higher amp rating
than a table saw. A 30 or 40 amp table saw would be a real monster. Like
a sawmill. I would go for a circuit breaker that trips near (but above)
the saw spec, so it does provide protection.

Steve


Are you going to change out all you circuit breakers to a lower amp also for
you lamps, TV, radio's, blenders, 110 volt tools, and such? They require
much less than the circuit rating. If anything a lower rated circuit
breaker is going to make the motor heat up more when under a strain because
it is not getting enough power.

Leon wrote:
If anything a lower rated circuit breaker is going to make the motor
heat up more when under a strain because it is not getting enough
power.

Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".

Roy Smith wrote:
Leon wrote:
=20
If anything a lower rated circuit breaker is going to make the motor
heat up more when under a strain because it is not getting enough
power.

Enough current???? Have actually seen this -- in a failure mode of a=20
breaker - ALTAIALFA (a long time ago in a land far away) But it was a=20
handful of failures in thousands of machines. Highly unlikely -- but=20
maybe not impossible. I will leave it to the EE's in the group who might =

want to debate this. I am sure that someone here can do some=20
calculations and dig up some data to prove something. I certainly=20
can't/won't these days.

=20
=20
Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".


And if the breaker fails by developing a higher resistance? Actually=20
seen this in a handful of failures out of many thousands of=20
motor/breaker circuits in a manufacturing situation. I was just glad I=20
could pass the analysis to someone competent. Again ALTAIALFA -- QA is=20
probably a lot better and techniques have changed -- so it probably=20
doesn't happen any more...



I am beginning to wish that we had the Chemists equivalent of STP=20
(Standard Temperature and Pressure)

Then we could all say that when we mean when we say "normally" -- which=20
isn't used often enough...

Then we wouldn't debate this stuff unless it was egregious enuff to=20
really rile us up. I am so MAD!!! Cause I saw some of these failures 30=20
years ago and -- IT CAN HAPPEN! I SWEAR! TO DENY IT IS WRONG!!!!

And I swore I would never post on one of these threads. But if a cool=20
head like Robatoy can give at least one shot I will allow myself _once_.


Did I mention I HATE COMPOUND MITER DESIGNS?

I swear by the Red Green payer that I will do this no more. I swear...


OKOK AMT. Breathe deep.


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Leon wrote:

Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will warm
up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that the air
coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at 82° as
it is when she puts it at 72°.
--
Jerry

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will
warm
up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that the
air
coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at 82° as
it is when she puts it at 72°.
--
Jerry

Its a concept foreign to everyone of my employees! I have locked all
thermostats and I still find some set at 80° in the winter and 60° in the
summer.

Even after a lengthy and detailed explanation to my wife, she still thinks
it warms or cools faster!!

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
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On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 16:52:01 -0500, Jerry S. wrote:

Leon wrote:

Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will warm
up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that the air
coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at 82° as
it is when she puts it at 72°.

We're married to the same woman?

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will
warm
up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that the
air
coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at 82°
as
it is when she puts it at 72°.
--
Jerry

Its a concept foreign to everyone of my employees! I have locked all
thermostats and I still find some set at 80° in the winter and 60° in the
summer.

Even after a lengthy and detailed explanation to my wife, she still thinks
it warms or cools faster!!

please let me know if you ever come up with a way to explain this to your
wife. i need it for my wife also. i have the exact same discussion every
winter.

Dave


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

on 3/18/2005 4:11 PM Dave Hinz said the following:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 16:52:01 -0500, Jerry S. wrote:

Leon wrote:


We're married to the same woman?


And some thought the testosterone was flowing freely around here of
late? We ain't seen nothing yet.g

Jerry S. wrote:
Leon wrote:

Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as
much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no
middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house
will warm
up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that
the air
coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at
82=B0 as
it is when she puts it at 72=B0.
--
Jerry

While I don't disagree in general, if the thermostat is located near a
heating vent, it may cycle on-off more while the home reaches an
equilibrated temperature; not that your wife (or mine for that matter)
has thought it through that far.

Cheers,
Mike

"Jerry S." wrote in message
...

Leon wrote:

Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will
warm
up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that the
air
coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at 82° as
it is when she puts it at 72°.

Oh hell - that's nothin'. Ask anyone of us that live in cold country what
the first the wife does when she jumps into the cold car... Reaches across
the car and turns the damn blower on full. Can't explain to her that she's
making us colder by doing that and she has to wait for the engine to heat
up.

--

-Mike-

Jim Jacobs wrote:

I am currently living in a rental until our house is finished. There is no
220 volt outlet in the garage so I can't use my saw. Not being an
electrician, can I plug it into the outlet used by the dryer? I know I will
have to change the plug on my saw.

Thanks for the help.

Jim


I found myself in the same position when I moved several years ago. I
just changed the the 4-prong receptacle in the dryer outlet to a 3-prong
20 amp style. Worked like a champ. When I moved, I put the 4-prong
receptacle back in the box. As I remember, the circuit was rated at 30
amps.

Dave Vermilyea

WillR wrote:

Roy Smith wrote:
Leon wrote:

If anything a lower rated circuit breaker is going to make the motor
heat up more when under a strain because it is not getting enough
power.

Enough current???? Have actually seen this -- in a failure mode of a
breaker - ALTAIALFA (a long time ago in a land far away) But it was a
handful of failures in thousands of machines. Highly unlikely -- but
maybe not impossible. I will leave it to the EE's in the group who might
want to debate this. I am sure that someone here can do some
calculations and dig up some data to prove something. I certainly
can't/won't these days.



Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".


And if the breaker fails by developing a higher resistance?

Then how does it make any difference if the breaker is rated for 1 amp or a
billion? If the failure is corrosion of the contacts or something else
that causes increased resistance in the contacts it's going to occur on a
breaker of any capacity.

The contacts are simply metal touching metal. They may be exactly the same
size in breakers with a very wide range of current capacities. What makes
the breaker "break" is a mechanism that opens those contacts, not anything
having to do with their innate properties.

Actually
seen this in a handful of failures out of many thousands of
motor/breaker circuits in a manufacturing situation. I was just glad I
could pass the analysis to someone competent. Again ALTAIALFA -- QA is
probably a lot better and techniques have changed -- so it probably
doesn't happen any more...

So? Having a larger breaker would have made no difference.

I am beginning to wish that we had the Chemists equivalent of STP
(Standard Temperature and Pressure)

Then we could all say that when we mean when we say "normally" -- which
isn't used often enough...

Then we wouldn't debate this stuff unless it was egregious enuff to
really rile us up. I am so MAD!!! Cause I saw some of these failures 30
years ago and -- IT CAN HAPPEN! I SWEAR! TO DENY IT IS WRONG!!!!

There is no question that breakers can fail in various ways. The question
is whether using a larger one would eliminate the kind of malfunction that
you observed, and there is no reason to believe that it would.

And I swore I would never post on one of these threads. But if a cool
head like Robatoy can give at least one shot I will allow myself _once_.


Did I mention I HATE COMPOUND MITER DESIGNS?

I swear by the Red Green payer that I will do this no more. I swear...


OKOK AMT. Breathe deep.



--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke wrote:
WillR wrote:
=20
=20
Roy Smith wrote:

Leon wrote:


If anything a lower rated circuit breaker is going to make the motor
heat up more when under a strain because it is not getting enough
power.

Enough current???? Have actually seen this -- in a failure mode of a
breaker - ALTAIALFA (a long time ago in a land far away) But it was a
handful of failures in thousands of machines. Highly unlikely -- but
maybe not impossible. I will leave it to the EE's in the group who migh=
t
want to debate this. I am sure that someone here can do some
calculations and dig up some data to prove something. I certainly
can't/won't these days.



Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle=

ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".


And if the breaker fails by developing a higher resistance?
=20
=20
Then how does it make any difference if the breaker is rated for 1 amp =
or a
billion? If the failure is corrosion of the contacts or something else=

that causes increased resistance in the contacts it's going to occur on=
a
breaker of any capacity.
=20
Sounds reasonable.

The contacts are simply metal touching metal. They may be exactly the =
same
size in breakers with a very wide range of current capacities. What ma=
kes
the breaker "break" is a mechanism that opens those contacts, not anyth=
ing
having to do with their innate properties.
=20

Have to agree with that assessment.

=20
Actually=20
seen this in a handful of failures out of many thousands of
motor/breaker circuits in a manufacturing situation. I was just glad I
could pass the analysis to someone competent. Again ALTAIALFA -- QA is
probably a lot better and techniques have changed -- so it probably
doesn't happen any more...
=20
=20
So? Having a larger breaker would have made no difference.
=20

And probably not even a smaller one. Don't know any more -- any more.

As soon as I could I stick to pure logic, and ittsy bittsy things that=20
couldn't pull my fingers off I was happier the motors were happier -- it =

was a win-win.

Packets, bits, bytes, words, core memories, adders -- they were all so=20
much simpler -- and if you hit them with a hammer they did not rotate=20
back at you and eat your finger -- or eat their breakers if you shorted=20
their contacts.

Motors -- especially ones with breakers and servos were (to me)=20
inherently untrustworthy...

Hope that explains my position.


=20
I am beginning to wish that we had the Chemists equivalent of STP
(Standard Temperature and Pressure)

Then we could all say that when we mean when we say "normally" -- which=

isn't used often enough...

Then we wouldn't debate this stuff unless it was egregious enuff to
really rile us up. I am so MAD!!! Cause I saw some of these failures 30=

years ago and -- IT CAN HAPPEN! I SWEAR! TO DENY IT IS WRONG!!!!
=20
=20
There is no question that breakers can fail in various ways. The quest=
ion
is whether using a larger one would eliminate the kind of malfunction t=
hat
you observed, and there is no reason to believe that it would.
=20

Don't think I was arguing that -- for or against. Just pointing out how=20
grateful I was that somebody competent that worked with me could help.

Just just plaintively whining that I wish we had standards like STP so=20
we could discuss things easier -- beyond that...

=20
And I swore I would never post on one of these threads. But if a cool
head like Robatoy can give at least one shot I will allow myself _once_=
=2E


Did I mention I HATE COMPOUND MITER DESIGNS?

I swear by the Red Green payer that I will do this no more. I swear...


OKOK AMT. Breathe deep.


=20
=20

This was twice -- shudder!!! Hopefully I have displayed complete=20
incompetence and If I ever post in an electrical thread again will be=20
turfed as quickly as possible.

Unless, of course, you want all the calculations done in Mod 11 or Mod=20
13 -- I can do that. Ohms law and Helmholtz equations - calculated in=20
Mod 13 -- now there's a thought... Insane -- yes but still a thought.

In a matrix - LU factorization would make it easy --- yes it could work.

:-)


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

RRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr... Several took the bait. LOL
With all the talk about Tom complaining about people making OT posts and him
being one of the worst, another post mentioned the electrical saga. Sorry I
could not resist.




"Leon" wrote in message
. com...

"Steven and Gail Peterson" wrote in message
link.net...
OK, I will admit to the assumption that a dryer has a higher amp rating
than a table saw. A 30 or 40 amp table saw would be a real monster.
Like a sawmill. I would go for a circuit breaker that trips near (but
above) the saw spec, so it does provide protection.

Steve


Are you going to change out all you circuit breakers to a lower amp also
for you lamps, TV, radio's, blenders, 110 volt tools, and such? They
require much less than the circuit rating. If anything a lower rated
circuit breaker is going to make the motor heat up more when under a
strain because it is not getting enough power.

On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 15:12:03 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
scribbled:
"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will
warm up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that
the air coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts
it at 82° as it is when she puts it at 72°.

Its a concept foreign to everyone of my employees! I have locked all
thermostats and I still find some set at 80° in the winter and 60° in the
summer.

Even after a lengthy and detailed explanation to my wife, she still thinks
it warms or cools faster!!

please let me know if you ever come up with a way to explain this to your
wife. i need it for my wife also. i have the exact same discussion every
winter.

Try the old landlord trick (which I learned from an electrical
contractor): Hide the real thermostat somewhere (like in the ceiling)
and leave a fake thermostat for people to play with.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html

In article ,
Unquestionably Confused wrote:

on 3/18/2005 12:13 PM Steven and Gail Peterson said the following:
OK, I will admit to the assumption that a dryer has a higher amp rating
than
a table saw. A 30 or 40 amp table saw would be a real monster. Like a
sawmill. I would go for a circuit breaker that trips near (but above) the
saw spec, so it does provide protection.

Once again: The circuit breaker is there to protect the WIRING, NOT the
appliance. The rating of the saw, etc. when stated as "Use only on 15
AMP circuit" states the MINIMUM rating for the circuit to which the saw
is connected.

That essentially the logic behind the fact you don't have any one amp
circuit breakers protecting your electric toothbrush recharger, the
nightlight in the hallway, etc.

The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit
breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects
the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not
the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The
circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker
protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the
wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the
saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit
breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects
the wiring, not the saw.

The wiring? Not the saw?

In article ,
WillR wrote:



As long as the panel breaker is at least the required capacity.. YES.

Will...you didn't even ask if those were metric or Imperial volts. So
how can you be so sure?

In article ,
"Leon" wrote:

Several took the bait.

The Popiet PocketFisherman LIVES!!!!

Congratulations...LOL

"Jerry S." wrote in message
...

Leon wrote:

Ugh. Where do people get this stuff from? A breaker either stays
closed or it opens. If it's closed, the circuit will deliver as much
power as the load can draw (minus resistive losses in the wiring
itself). If it opens, there's no power delivered. There is no middle
ground where the breaker is not delivering "enough power".

Hehe. My wife will turn the thermostat *way* up, so that the house will
warm
up to the desired temperature faster. I can't seem to explain that the
air
coming out of the ducts is the same temperature when she puts it at 82° as
it is when she puts it at 72°.
--
Jerry




It's like a former roommate who turned up the heat on a boiling (open) pot
so the food would cook faster. No amount of explaining about the boiling
point of water would convince him otherwise.

Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
WillR wrote:
=20
=20
=20
As long as the panel breaker is at least the required capacity.. YES.
=20
=20
Will...you didn't even ask if those were metric or Imperial volts. So=20
how can you be so sure?


Whew. Now you did, and have covered up my _embarrassing mistake_ How can =

I ever thank you?

Would a 2 Liter Bottle of Don Pedro Brandy be acceptable? A recent=20
visitor left it here...


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Robatoy wrote:

In article ,
Unquestionably Confused wrote:

on 3/18/2005 12:13 PM Steven and Gail Peterson said the following:
OK, I will admit to the assumption that a dryer has a higher amp rating
than
a table saw. A 30 or 40 amp table saw would be a real monster. Like a
sawmill. I would go for a circuit breaker that trips near (but above)
the saw spec, so it does provide protection.

Once again: The circuit breaker is there to protect the WIRING, NOT the
appliance. The rating of the saw, etc. when stated as "Use only on 15
AMP circuit" states the MINIMUM rating for the circuit to which the saw
is connected.

That essentially the logic behind the fact you don't have any one amp
circuit breakers protecting your electric toothbrush recharger, the
nightlight in the hallway, etc.

The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit
breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects
the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not
the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The
circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker
protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the
wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the
saw. The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit
breaker protects the wiring, not the saw. The circuit breaker protects
the wiring, not the saw.

The wiring? Not the saw?

how about the wiring in the saw?